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Old 02-10-2011, 02:45 PM
  #2761  
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Originally Posted by Radio Active
Like I say, I didn't have any problems in 40 degree heat, it was just something I was told.

Complete set-up: ok, sure, it changes a little (tyres and caster mainly) depending upon the exact conditions, because this is an open outdoor track on rough tarmac. But here is my standard set-up for this track after 3 meetings with the car: Motor: 6.5 turn, mild timing; Gearing 65/30; Tyres: (generally 46-44 mm) Exceed Hard Front, Exceed Medium Rear/CRC Pink (have also used CRC purple fronts with the pink rears, but that's a little twitchy); Caster: 1.8 degrees, Camber: 2.5 degrees right wheel, 1 degree left wheel (otherwise the tyres cone so much my trim is badly off at the end of the race – there are 3 high speed left handers on the circuit, and not much in the way of turning right); upper-arm mounts: 10 degrees; Side-spring: silver; side shock: 30 wt; centre shock 30 wt blue spring, top mounting position; ~ 1.5mm droop; body: Protoform Aston-Martin Lola; front and rear track is standard; battery forward; slight toe-out; ride-height: 3.5 mm; front springs 0.020; diff: fairly tight.

Edit: I assume you want the complete set-up to help diagnose the hair-pin problem, which I appreciate. I'm most interested in the fundamentals of oil vs. springs though; give a man a fish etc.

Daniel,
If you are referring to Maitland track, the 3.5mm ride height would be a major problem. I would run 5mm for sure.
I didnt run my 12th there, but my TC was all over the shop on the massive bumps.
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Old 02-10-2011, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Besercoe
Daniel,
If you are referring to Maitland track, the 3.5mm ride height would be a major problem. I would run 5mm for sure.
I didnt run my 12th there, but my TC was all over the shop on the massive bumps.
Hmm, good point. I was running 5mm with the old car, and the suspension is fairly well loaded up at that point, so there is more potential to bottom.

@RedBullFiXX: Thanks for the advice.

I'm still more interested in the difference between changing springs and changing oil though. I like to understand what every change I can make on the car will do, even if I never use it as a result. I can go away and research it from a Physics point of view, but that's easier with a reference point as to how the changes feel on track.

Last edited by Radio Active; 02-10-2011 at 04:40 PM.
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Old 02-12-2011, 10:53 PM
  #2763  
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Ok, so after 10 years of reliable service my Airtronics 94145 died last night (terminal glitching, no it's not the plugs, yes I tried changing all the other electronics) and I'm looking to get a replacement quickly.

My back up servo is a rubbish Hitec that has to be servo taped to the car to be aligned properly.

Airtronics says that the direct replacement is the 94819. However, it is 4mm narrower than the older unit I've been using, and which fits the mounting holes perfectly. So, is anyone else using a 94819? And if so are there any fit issues?

Other servo recommendations are welcome, but I've got 3 spare servo savers for an Airtronics and nothing for anything else...
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Old 02-13-2011, 07:47 AM
  #2764  
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Originally Posted by Radio Active
Ok, so after 10 years of reliable service my Airtronics 94145 died last night (terminal glitching, no it's not the plugs, yes I tried changing all the other electronics) and I'm looking to get a replacement quickly.

My back up servo is a rubbish Hitec that has to be servo taped to the car to be aligned properly.

Airtronics says that the direct replacement is the 94819. However, it is 4mm narrower than the older unit I've been using, and which fits the mounting holes perfectly. So, is anyone else using a 94819? And if so are there any fit issues?

Other servo recommendations are welcome, but I've got 3 spare servo savers for an Airtronics and nothing for anything else...
I'm a Futaba fan, and servo savers are fairly inexpensive
Either of these will fit perfectly in the R5 with or without servo mounts.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...4&I=LXDTB4&P=K



http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...4&I=LXWYV2&P=K

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Old 02-13-2011, 02:43 PM
  #2765  
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX
I'm a Futaba fan, and servo savers are fairly inexpensive
Either of these will fit perfectly in the R5 with or without servo mounts.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...4&I=LXDTB4&P=K



http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...4&I=LXWYV2&P=K

Thanks. The S9650 looks like a good option. I think I'll go with that.
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Old 02-13-2011, 03:57 PM
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There is also the Savox SH1250MG option as well

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Old 02-14-2011, 02:19 PM
  #2767  
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def 9650.. plus the price is good.. and then theres the top of the line ko.. which is alot
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Old 02-15-2011, 08:29 AM
  #2768  
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Convert 12R5 to 10R5

what do I need to convert from a 5 to a 10?

1. 4 bolt hubs
2. foams for front and rear
3. bodyshell & posts

what else would be needed?

Last edited by CFR; 02-15-2011 at 10:14 AM.
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Old 02-15-2011, 09:58 AM
  #2769  
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Originally Posted by CFR
Convert 12R5 to 10R5

what do I need to convert from a 5 to a 10?

1. 4 bolt hubs
2. foams for from and rear
3. bodyshell & posts

what else would be needed?
Chassis, bumper, front end plate, cross brace, hardware.
These are just the quick items I can think of.
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Old 02-27-2011, 08:52 PM
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My KoPropo 949 servo does not lay flat on the chassis. There appears to be about a 1.5mm gap between the chassis and servo. Do any of you guys have this problem? I really dont want to Shoo Goo my $110 servo to the chassis. So have any of you guys come up with any other solutions that doesn't require gluing?

Thanks, Chris

Last edited by CHRIS CHAVEZ; 02-27-2011 at 10:00 PM.
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Old 02-28-2011, 06:42 AM
  #2771  
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I'm sure some of this has been covered somewhere in this thread. But I am an off-road guy looking to sharpen my skills, so I bought a 12R5.1. I have ZERO experience with on-road.

-What turn motor should I be looking at?
-What is a good, metal geared servo that will bolt right in?
-Does this kit come with a servo saver?
-Is there a particular tire compound that works at most tracks?
-What size battery?
-What kind of tape do you recommend and where do you get it?

I really appreciate the help, thank you.
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Old 02-28-2011, 06:57 AM
  #2772  
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Originally Posted by kyle3333
I'm sure some of this has been covered somewhere in this thread. But I am an off-road guy looking to sharpen my skills, so I bought a 12R5.1. I have ZERO experience with on-road.

-What turn motor should I be looking at?
-What is a good, metal geared servo that will bolt right in?
-Does this kit come with a servo saver?
-Is there a particular tire compound that works at most tracks?
-What size battery?
-What kind of tape do you recommend and where do you get it?

I really appreciate the help, thank you.
Lots of helpful links consolidated here
http://www.rctech.net/forum/7234434-post1.html

12th scale is pretty much all 1s lipo now
Futaba 9650 is one of the most popular and reliable servos
Check local track for popular classes, tire compound choice and sauce type used, etc.
You will want to use a good thick RC grade tape to secure the lipo
And you will need access to a tire truer especially if you plan to run indoors.

TQ Racing stocks a lot of 12th scale stuff



http://www.tqrcracing.com/
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Old 02-28-2011, 12:56 PM
  #2773  
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Great, thanks for all of the info. What servo saver works the best with the Futaba S9650 when it is bolted to the chassis?
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Old 02-28-2011, 01:08 PM
  #2774  
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Originally Posted by kyle3333
Great, thanks for all of the info. What servo saver works the best with the Futaba S9650 when it is bolted to the chassis?
Kimbrough



http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...futaba&pg_no=1
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Old 02-28-2011, 01:14 PM
  #2775  
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also one of THESE,i went through 3 savers in 15min since then the one i use know is cracked and haven't had a problem yet
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