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I mentioned I thought your setup was bonkers, and here's my take on why - it seems to have a lot of changes which cancel out other changes in terms of sidebite.
You mentioned having to dial out rear end grip - according to your setup, you only put additive on the rear tyre, so that's hardly surprising! If you could take us through your setup and explain why you made certain changes (e.g. 0 deg camber on the front - that one baffles me!), it would really help!
Originally Posted by Pro10noob
(Post 8249196)
Yes you can only not on a form as for some reason it won't work for me:flaming:
Here it is:Front Trackwide front 186 Rollbar front:stock Toe angle front +1 FF Hingle Pin Mount:1.5-2.5 >< Mount shim: none 1mm shim on bulkhead underneeth turnbuckle front reduces sidebite Front axle: Spool Camber front: 0 reduces sidebite Ride height front: 5mm Caster front: 3 degrees Downstop: -1 Steering system: single K-Factory Ackermann: outside position and on topdeck rear position Shock position front:Lower arm outside position and on tower also reduces sidebite Tires front: LRP CPX no tire tracktion applied reduces sidebite Shocks front are Top Photon with TM 1.4 springs and 3 holes and 600CPS oil. Rear: Trackwide:190MM reduces sidebite Rollbar: None increases sidebite Toe angle -3 RR Hingle Pin Mount: 1.5-2.5 <> Mount shim: None RF Hingh Pin Mount: ^^ Camber: -3 increases sidebite Ride hight: 5.5MM reduces sidebite Down stop: -3 Rear hub: K-Factory 1.5 degrees 3mm spacer under turnbuckle on bulkhead on the inner position reduces sidebite Turnbuckle position on rear hub: Inner position Shocks Rear: Top Photon with TM 1.3mm spring 3 holes piston and 600CPS oil Shock position on tower: Inner hole increases sidebite Shock position on lower arm: outer position. ESC: LRP SPX SS Mode 8,no drag brake and no auto brake Motor: GM13.5 stock spec,no timing. Tires Rear: LRP CPX tire traction on full tire increases sidebite Robitronic 5000MAH 40c Lipo Body Dodge Stratos. Hope this is to any use for some one as i have often heard that am way off what normally is used. regards Roy |
if I have this: RF Hingh Pin Mount: ^^, then I will get anti squat, right? What effect does it have?
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@ Colmo
The zero camber at the front is for the tire wear. The E4RS has tons of grip at the front so you have to reduce it a lot and the zero camber also gets ride of the grove wear on the inner side of the tire. The TM eats front tires if you have to much camber at the front. For some reason it is a lot less on the rear:weird: The spacer under te rear turnbuckle on the bulkhead reduces a bit of side bite but it also makes the car predicteble turn in and out(at least that is what i noticed on the carpet where i drive) The ride high of 5.5 is at standstill and when putting on the power it lowers. Also if the car is at the same ride hight front and rear or even lower(at the rear) you get a bit of funny steering The tire traction that is none present at the front was at the end of the race when the grip overall increases. Normally i start with full at the rear(and keep it) and half on the front what will change according to the level of grip. I like a car that is a bit understeered and not one that is oversteered. Hope this all makes sense:D:D regards Roy Here it is:Front Trackwide front 186 Rollbar front:stock Toe angle front +1 FF Hingle Pin Mount:1.5-2.5 >< Mount shim: none 1mm shim on bulkhead underneeth turnbuckle front reduces sidebite Front axle: Spool Camber front: 0 reduces sidebite Ride height front: 5mm Caster front: 3 degrees Downstop: -1 Steering system: single K-Factory Ackermann: outside position and on topdeck rear position Shock position front:Lower arm outside position and on tower also reduces sidebite Tires front: LRP CPX no tire tracktion applied reduces sidebite Shocks front are Top Photon with TM 1.4 springs and 3 holes and 600CPS oil. Rear: Trackwide:190MM reduces sidebite Changed to 186mm Rollbar: None increases sidebite Toe angle -3 RR Hingle Pin Mount: 1.5-2.5 <> Mount shim: None RF Hingh Pin Mount: ^^ Camber: -3 increases sidebite Ride hight: 5.5MM reduces sidebite Down stop: -3 Rear hub: K-Factory 1.5 degrees 3mm spacer under turnbuckle on bulkhead on the inner position reduces sidebite Turnbuckle position on rear hub: Inner position Shocks Rear: Top Photon with TM 1.3mm spring 3 holes piston and 600CPS oil Shock position on tower: Inner hole increases sidebite Shock position on lower arm: outer position. ESC: LRP SPX SS Mode 8,no drag brake and no auto brake changed to Tekin RS Motor: GM13.5 stock spec,no timing. Tires Rear: LRP CPX tire traction on full tire increases sidebite Robitronic 5000MAH 40c Lipo Body Dodge Stratos. |
Current Setup : Carpet
After more guess and test sessions at my local carpet tracks this is where I currently sit with my setup.
I am very interested in finding out what others have found out about this car to improve it's feel on carpet. Driving Feel: -A little pushy and lazy on corner entry. -Tight through center. -As I race stock my setup is built to maintain highest mid-corner speed. Largest Improvements (Order Of Magnatude Improvement): Adding lots of droop improved the car everywhere. Going from 25wt oil to 40wt oil in the front end. (drastically kills the steering). Moving the steering bell crank to the rear most position. Moving Shocks front to #2 and rear to #4 Shimming the front end out to the max. (reduces traction roll) Here it is:Front Trackwide front 190mm Rollbar front:1.4 Toe angle front: 0deg FF Hingle Pin Mount:1.5-2.5 < > Mount shim: none 5mm shim on inside bulkhead hole. 0mm shim on c-hub. Front axle: Spool Camber front: 1deg Ride height front: 5.5mm Caster front: 3 degrees Downstop: 4mm over ride height (lots of droop) Steering system: single (plastic stock one) Ackermann: inside position and rear position on topdeck Shock position front: Lower arm outside position and hole #2 on tower Tires front: Jaco Blue (32 shore) Traction Compound: Niftech Inside 50% tire Shocks front : Stock with 17.5lbs losi spring using 2 holes and 40wt oil. Rear: Trackwide:186MM Rollbar: 1.1 or 1.2 Toe angle -3 RR Hingle Pin Mount: 1.5-2.5 >< Mount shim: None RF Hingh Pin Mount: down and down Camber: -2 Ride hight: 6MM Down stop: 3.5mm over ride height Rear hub: Wolf Hobby 1.5deg 1mm shim on inside bulkhead hole. 0.5mm shim on middle rear hub hole. Shocks front : Stock Shocks with 15lbs losi spring using 2 holes and 25wt oil. Shock position on tower: Hole #4 Shock position on lower arm: outer position. ESC: Tekin RS, Throttle Profile 4, 5 drag brake, Stock Mode. Motor: Trinity Duo2 17.5 full timing 4.12fdr Tires Rear: Jaco Blue (32 shore) Traction Compound: Niftech 100% tire SMC 5200MAH 50c Lipo Mazda Speed 6 |
Cheers for the explanations, Roy - those are probably more useful than the setup itself! Knowing caveats about the behaviour of the car allows us to make informed adjustments!
Capt'n Slow - cheers for that, could you just make it clear that's a foam setup, and is it an FS or RS? Roy and I are talking about rubber with an RS. |
Originally Posted by colmo
(Post 8347230)
Cheers for the explanations, Roy - those are probably more useful than the setup itself! Knowing caveats about the behaviour of the car allows us to make informed adjustments!
Capt'n Slow - cheers for that, could you just make it clear that's a foam setup, and is it an FS or RS? Roy and I are talking about rubber with an RS. |
Originally Posted by Capt'N_Slow
(Post 8347244)
RS chassis using jaco rubber tires (Medium Grip or Shore 32) included the shore rating as other clubs run the sorex equivalent.
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Your welcome Colmo.
We all need to help one another to get this car to be great and get as much info on what setup to use on what surface indoor our out. I am going to race this weekend again on carpet and going to take a Sakura Zero to it's maiden practice and compare it to the TM E4RS i have. I like the TM indoor as it can take e beating without loosing parts in the mayham:D It also is very consistend and funny thing is my lap times are quicker on used tires then on new rubber. Perhaps it is my setup but i like to run on at least 3 or 4 heat old tires(indoor that is). If i race outdoor on asfalt with the TM i have to use a harder tire at the front to keep a even tire wear all around. Perhaps this has something to do with my driving skills but with my Top Photon i can drive with the same tires all around and still get the same laptimes. I love all the cars i have. All have there plus and minusses but overall i like them all. regards Roy
Originally Posted by colmo
(Post 8347230)
Cheers for the explanations, Roy - those are probably more useful than the setup itself! Knowing caveats about the behaviour of the car allows us to make informed adjustments!
Capt'n Slow - cheers for that, could you just make it clear that's a foam setup, and is it an FS or RS? Roy and I are talking about rubber with an RS. |
3 Attachment(s)
Hello all,
Just in time for Christmas I have 6 lightweight, aluminum lipo trays for the E4 ready to ship. Some of you already use my trays and the rest of you should if you like to have extra clearance for those taller lipo packs. If you know someone who is running my battery trays please ask for their opinion. These are all going for $55.00 shipped in the continental U.S. and $50.00 each if you buy more than one. They are exactly as you see in the pictures and from what I am told, they will fit all versions of the E4 carbon chassis. Keep your CG low and lose those spacers! |
Is there a new E4 due out soon - I only ask because the UK distributor is selling the E4RS 09 for £249?
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Hmzzzzzzz that is the same numbers but in euro's as the E4RS is here in Holland.
Not much difference between the E4RS and the E4RS 009 tho. cheers Roy
Originally Posted by scoyle
(Post 8356342)
Is there a new E4 due out soon - I only ask because the UK distributor is selling the E4RS 09 for £249?
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Stephen, I think the man to ask is Martin Askell.
It's inevitable that a model that is now 2 years old would have to be discounted to maintain sales against the newest, shiniest gear coming out - I've noticed TC racers (certainly in comparison to off-roaders) change chassis as often as socks.... |
4 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by YoDog
(Post 8348547)
Hello all,
Just in time for Christmas I have 6 lightweight, aluminum lipo trays for the E4 ready to ship. Some of you already use my trays and the rest of you should if you like to have extra clearance for those taller lipo packs. If you know someone who is running my battery trays please ask for their opinion. These are all going for $55.00 shipped in the continental U.S. and $50.00 each if you buy more than one. They are exactly as you see in the pictures and from what I am told, they will fit all versions of the E4 carbon chassis. Keep your CG low and lose those spacers! As an added bonus overall chassis stiffness is improved as well. Check out the attached pictures to see the fit for yourself. |
"taps fingers and looks at Yodog" Where were you last month:weird::confused:;)
cheers Roy
Originally Posted by YoDog
(Post 8348547)
Hello all,
Just in time for Christmas I have 6 lightweight, aluminum lipo trays for the E4 ready to ship. Some of you already use my trays and the rest of you should if you like to have extra clearance for those taller lipo packs. If you know someone who is running my battery trays please ask for their opinion. These are all going for $55.00 shipped in the continental U.S. and $50.00 each if you buy more than one. They are exactly as you see in the pictures and from what I am told, they will fit all versions of the E4 carbon chassis. Keep your CG low and lose those spacers! |
I spoke to wolf from wolfhobbies their is no new car comming out yet from Team Magic. But wolfhobbies is testing some prototype parts for the E4.
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