Perhaps not in lap times but how about maintenance?
The shorter the track is the less difference it makes.
I know on our track it makes a difference of 2 to 3 tenth per lap if you got clean and/or new perfect bearings.
We have a track with laptimes between 23 seconds for the slower drivers to low 21 to high 20 for the faster drivers.
This is in the stock 13.5 class.

regards Roy

Ceramic for me has slight advantage on the straight due less drag but running 17.5 with boost does not make any difference.

My bearings are starting to sound like they have gone square. Has anybody purchased the ceramic set from ABEC35.com?

http://www.abec35.com/p3296/Team-Mag...duct_info.html

hi,

if I use 2.0 internal drive, what will be better? or what effect will it have?

Acer racing is where i got them, they have kits for the E4RS for 89.99

With lower internal ratio the car spool up faster making the car to accelerate faster.

And the oither way..
 

Got me thinkin... What happens to the brakes?

Good bearings are everything..
 

Cleaning on their benches and later standing on the podiums... good bearings carry speed in corners, no blips, good acceleration etc etc.. With several magics and perhaps not all the time, most bearings Ive had are quite good if cared for. Kfactory Reds are nice :)

h

Much better brakes:D:D

regards Roy

Well guys 35/18 tooth pulley didn't work well it made the drive train way to tight.

Had a indoor race last weekend and managed to do laptimes that where only 2 a 3 km slower then the mod guys out there.
There wern't enough 13.5 stock racers so we ended up in the mod.
Managed to finish 5th overall and was the first stock driver out there:cool:
Running a lap time of 15.145 as fastest and that was a big improvement over last year on that track.
Funny thing is that i didn't use the best ESC and motor i had.
Used the old LRP SPX SS and a GM13.5 with a FDR of 4.588 so i had some speed out there.
Overall i am happy with the performance of the car last race.

regards Roy

Team magic E4 chassis have the best layout, balance overall, very easy to drive and it's not prone to tweeks but i do like to see a new chassis design with even cut outs and new top deck for low grip asphalt, new front and rear bulkheads were you can adjust the belt tension without using a belt tensioner.

What is lucking on the car is the rip of the two belt driven car however if you can free it up more it's achievable.

can we see your setup?

Yes you can only not on a form as for some reason it won't work for me:flaming:

Here it is:Front
Trackwide front 186
Rollbar front:stock
Toe angle front +1
FF Hingle Pin Mount:1.5-2.5 ><
Mount shim: none
1mm shim on bulkhead underneeth turnbuckle front
Front axle: Spool
Camber front: 0
Ride height front: 5mm
Caster front: 3 degrees
Downstop: -1
Steering system: single K-Factory
Ackermann: outside position and on topdeck rear position
Shock position front:Lower arm outside position and on tower also
Tires front: LRP CPX no tire tracktion applied
Shocks front are Top Photon with TM 1.4 springs and 3 holes and 600CPS oil.

Rear:
Trackwide:190MM
Rollbar: None
Toe angle -3
RR Hingle Pin Mount: 1.5-2.5 <>
Mount shim: None
RF Hingh Pin Mount: ^^
Camber: -3
Ride hight: 5.5MM
Down stop: -3
Rear hub: K-Factory 1.5 degrees
3mm spacer under turnbuckle on bulkhead on the inner position
Turnbuckle position on rear hub: Inner position
Shocks Rear: Top Photon with TM 1.3mm spring 3 holes piston and 600CPS oil
Shock position on tower: Inner hole
Shock position on lower arm: outer position.
ESC: LRP SPX SS Mode 8,no drag brake and no auto brake
Motor: GM13.5 stock spec,no timing.
Tires Rear: LRP CPX tire traction on full tire
Robitronic 5000MAH 40c Lipo
Body Dodge Stratos.

Hope this is to any use for some one as i have often heard that am way off what normally is used.

regards Roy

hey guys need some input im going to be buying 2 E4rs 09 is there anything i should be buying for them before i build them


thanks
Tuan