I brought the FS and got a spool. It high mechanical grip in my opinion which is good. Sometimes too much.

Can anyone tell me what size drivers do you need to put the E4 together? Metric/Standard and Wheel nut sizes..

Defintiely Metric, typical metric set...from 1.5 to 3mm.

Wheel nut is the standard TC type...don't know what size that is (M4?)

I have this...very compact and good quality, and cheap. Good enough from 1/10th to 1/8th on road.

9 piece set of mini sized alloy wrenches. Includes 1.5, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0mm hex drivers, 4.5, 5.5(M3), 7.0mm(M4) nut drivers, 3mm flat blade and 3mm Philips screwdrivers.

http://www.racing-cars.com/images/CR032_w.jpg

If for some reason you only want to buy individual tools and not the set. All you need is the 1.5mm and 2mm allen wrenches. The 2.5mm and 3mm are not used on the E4. As noted already, you'll only need the 5.5mm and 7mm nut drivers for the M3 and M4 nuts.

I myself prefer the MIP/Thorpe wrenches which only comes individually. I think the Losi tools also come individually. I've purchased one of those cheaper tool sets in the past but I still prefer the MIP/Thorpe because they don't have a tendency to strip like the cheaper ones.

Got my red shock today and put them on the car.
Looks like the bomb:D:D
I now have the car the way i like it optically.
Now going to do some setup changes to suit it to indoor racing
Hope you like the pic's:cool:

cheers Roy

Nice.:nod:

Is that the red aluminum bulkhead set from Wolf?

Yes they are the red bulkheads from Wolf.

cheers Roy

Thanks Wyd.
That's why i bought them.
That and the red shocks give them the finishing touch.

regards Roy

Small question for you guys and yes i know it has been asked before:blush:
I want to know what the max MAH lipo is and what brand that fits the E4 without raising the top chassis plate.
I allready have done the side belt tensioner and the front middle axle carrier.
I now have the Zippy flightmax 4000mah in there and they fit like a glove but i am looking for lipo's with a higher MAH as they want to extend our driving time to 7 minutes and a min weight of 1450grams :eek::weird::mad:
I am used to driving the car with a weight of 1350grams(with 45 grams of lead added) and 6 minutes heats but am now affraid that i won't have enough mah to do the job.
Please let those lipo wizzards answer me:D:D

regards Roy

Worst worst.. Original E4..
 

Have the same problem... Still think it stinks we weigh cars with batteries. You'll find the 4000 is as close to a fit as you might get...

http://www.rcmanufactory.com/prodshow.php?id=276

There's 4200's but whether the battery quality is as good inside, have no idea, I know we do well with the Orion 3800's. But we arent at the pointy end pushing turbo speedies etc.

Also.. the Old non-hardcase 5000 might fit, but outlawed I think.

In the past, Ive measured and looked up the dimensions to see if they fit, not having the bumps included often threw things out as many bumps dont line up with our bottom plates.

I'd seriously test it though, you might find that your current Lipo solution might get you the 7 minutes. How much is the RE-Charge taking in after 6 minutes?

Lead spec racing sinker.
 

Another point.. Where will you add all that lead??? I ended up placing most of it all on the top plate and some under the front. :(

Look at the pic's above...There you can see where i put some of the lead i now have placed.
I would be even worse if i have to ad another 50 grams.

regards Roy

The charge depends on what track i am driving.
At the moment it is a indoor track with laptimes between 14 and 15.5 seconds in the 13.5 class.
There it is between 2500 to 3200MAH charge.
At the outdoor track it's another ballgame.
20 to 22 second laps and 50 grams and plus 60 seconds.
Tech infield and nice straight as seen here.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0y00uwKLjoA.
Now waiting to get the first training of the outdoor season and test it.

regards Roy

Graphite chassis pieces for the JS
 

A few weeks back I had a really bad crash with my JS at the track. I broke both the front chassis plate and rear chassis plate. Anyways I got those replaced and I also picked up a Tekin RS. While I was squirting around on my street to see how fast the RS was, I spun a few times on some dirt and the car bumped the curb a few times. No noticeable damage except one thing, the rear chassis plate broke in exactly the same spot again.

Although, I had another new rear chassis plate available in my pit box, I thought to myself that this part seems a bit fragile. It is held to the main chassis with two screws and that is where it snapped. Perhaps its too much load for so little amount of plastic. So I decided to make one out of graphite. It took about a half of an afternoon to do it using my Dremel tool, drill bit, cut-off wheel, and diamond milling bit. A little rough but not bad and its much stronger than the stock plastic piece. I'll try to post some pics of it.

Anyways, if Wolf is listening, it would be nice if you can offer this as an option for us JS owners as a Wolf Hobbies part. I'm considering making the front piece in graphite as well but that one may take more work. However, if Wolf can offer the option, it would save me a lot of trouble.

I know, some of you guys will say "why not just get the RS or FS" but I like the way the JS fits my the hardcase lipos including my new Peak 5400 pack. I also like the fact that this "plastic" car is able to compete with the T2s and T3s at my local track.