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Old 01-02-2010, 09:44 PM   #2836
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Questions??

Hello all, I am looking into parts and prices for the E4. Does anyone know the difference between the following:

http://www.wolfhobbies.com/E4_Parts-...l_Joint_2.html

and

http://www.wolfhobbies.com/E4_Parts-...Dogbone_2.html

From the pics they seem similar, but the descriptions are different. What are the differences between a dogbone and universal joint? Is a joint similar to a CVD?

Also do pinions come in one set size, as I assume that manufacturers shafts are not all the same size.

Thanks,Jason.
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Old 01-02-2010, 10:25 PM   #2837
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Default 503216 E4

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Originally Posted by jscamry View Post
Hello all, I am looking into parts and prices for the E4. Does anyone know the difference between the following:

http://www.wolfhobbies.com/E4_Parts-...l_Joint_2.html

and

http://www.wolfhobbies.com/E4_Parts-...Dogbone_2.html

From the pics they seem similar, but the descriptions are different. What are the differences between a dogbone and universal joint? Is a joint similar to a CVD?

Also do pinions come in one set size, as I assume that manufacturers shafts are not all the same size.

Thanks,Jason.
I'd be daring enough to say that the latter 503216-1 is just the joint/dogbone, the first is 503216 the complete CVD.

PS: We have snapped two of the 7075 Alu in the past month.. with 4.5 503124 is the steel version.

http://www.wolfhobbies.com/E4_Parts-...l_Joint_2.html
h
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Old 01-02-2010, 10:52 PM   #2838
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Default

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Originally Posted by blis View Post
I'd be daring enough to say that the latter 503216-1 is just the joint/dogbone, the first is 503216 the complete CVD.

PS: We have snapped two of the 7075 Alu in the past month.. with 4.5 503124 is the steel version.

http://www.wolfhobbies.com/E4_Parts-...l_Joint_2.html
h
Really, I can see how that may happen. Did the car smack a wall or a board? Did the housing break which encloses the 7075 Alu? Do you think the parts which broke are defects?

~Jason.
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Old 01-02-2010, 11:01 PM   #2839
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Default They're lightweight..

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Really, I can see how that may happen. Did the car smack a wall or a board? Did the housing break which encloses the 7075 Alu? Do you think the parts which broke are defects?

~Jason.
I doubt they are defect, they are race bred, quality alu the loads being applied by modern motors and the lightweight race precision of the 7075 Al, something will ultimately lead to failures somewhere without a clutch.

TBH, we celebrated his first breakage as up until that point we couldnt get that much power to the ground with our chassis setup. (as we used 6.5T previously, now down to 4.5) It may be aging wheelhubs too..

Regardless, it's just a matter for Luke to better control his throttle off the bottom rpm range or use the steels and sacrifice some weight.

h
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Old 01-03-2010, 03:13 PM   #2840
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Well I ran today. Not good because of traction rolling. First run I was on an A Main run... traction roll. It was like that all day until my "scrub" main. The car is fast enough. I got some good compliments on the car and I was not the only traction rolling. By the main I got the car to push. Throughout the day raised the camber links on the bulkhead 4 mm front and back, went to a 24lb front spring, 17lb pound spring rear and the last thing I did was mount the rear shocks on the inner most hole and the front shocks 1 hole in from the outer hole. The shock position change is when it stopped traction rolling. I used SJ-R 36R and still traction rolled with that hard tire until the end. I still like the car and it's fast if it stays on all four wheels...
if I have "traction roll", first of all I always use some superglue on my front tyre walls. It helped me many times.
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Old 01-03-2010, 06:05 PM   #2841
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During my test run today i also snapped a rear universal. I havent looked but i wish there was a rear steel version too. Im running a 3.5 and the overall balance and driveability of the car is great. I am close to a very good setp. I can see that in modified, the rear belt takes more load than the side and front belt. Definatly recommend the K factory belts....at least the rear for mod.

I didnt have to add much weight to balance the chassis using four scales...one for each wheel. Shock collars are almost all the same distance. I only had to add 1 1/2 turn on the collars to balance.

The 25lbs front and 17 rear seems to work well with medium traction with a flat roll center in the rear and 1mm shim in the front inside upper camber links. I have also 1mm anti dive in the front.
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Old 01-03-2010, 06:40 PM   #2842
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Well in the "groove" it was very high traction.
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Old 01-04-2010, 07:27 AM   #2843
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During my test run today i also snapped a rear universal. I havent looked but i wish there was a rear steel version too. Im running a 3.5 and the overall balance and driveability of the car is great. I am close to a very good setp. I can see that in modified, the rear belt takes more load than the side and front belt. Definatly recommend the K factory belts....at least the rear for mod.

I didnt have to add much weight to balance the chassis using four scales...one for each wheel. Shock collars are almost all the same distance. I only had to add 1 1/2 turn on the collars to balance.

The 25lbs front and 17 rear seems to work well with medium traction with a flat roll center in the rear and 1mm shim in the front inside upper camber links. I have also 1mm anti dive in the front.

There is a steel version of the joint/bone.

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Old 01-04-2010, 07:38 AM   #2844
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What place has the cheapest Metal Top Bulkhead Bracets that tie down the Shock Towers ?

I snapped mines -_-

And Wolf sells em for 50-60 bucks mushroom has em for 30-39
Any one else in the world carries these parts ?
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Old 01-04-2010, 07:54 AM   #2845
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isaac View Post
Well in the "groove" it was very high traction.
Just keep two tires in the groove and two out of the groove should give you that balance your looking for.

Did you change the front roll center on the front blocks? They have two positions. My car FS from the factory had the hinge pins in the lower of the two roll center postions. You might have already changed it but thought I would ask.
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Old 01-04-2010, 07:56 AM   #2846
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Where should they be for high traction? I will look this evening.
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Old 01-04-2010, 08:00 AM   #2847
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Where should they be for high traction? I will look this evening.
I would run them in the high position in the front for sure. Try it and see if you like that and who know maybe the rear as well depending on how the car feels to you. Its a fairly quick change so if you don't car for it you can always put it back.

Another thing you can do is run the rear front ones high and the front ones low to take another degree or so of caster out of the car. It might help even more with the car in the middle out of the corner steering by mellowing it out and keeping it from over rotating and snapping on you.

Then again I don't have my car anymore so I might be wrong. I just pm'ed you my cell.
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Last edited by wyd; 01-04-2010 at 08:27 AM.
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Old 01-04-2010, 08:15 AM   #2848
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i changed my wheel base,... that took care of my steering and corner speed.
Rear A-arms hinge pins has 1 metal shim on each side. I moved both rearwards pushing the a-arm forward. It does cause the rear to float alot but it works for me.
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Old 01-04-2010, 09:44 AM   #2849
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Do you have part numbers for those red bulkheads???
Want to give my car that finishing touch and i love red parts

cheers Roy


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No, it comes that way. Its a Wolf Hobbies Dave Ehrlich limited edition. I love the finish of the car.
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Old 01-05-2010, 07:03 AM   #2850
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Do you have part numbers for those red bulkheads???
Want to give my car that finishing touch and i love red parts

cheers Roy
Contact wolfs hobbies, he has them. for example:
http://www.wolfhobbies.com/cart.cgi?group=0&child=7087

I would email him for top brace.
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