E4JS:

I'm using the G4 23 mm tall springs. Light greens in back, light blue greens up front, 40 Wt oil front and back. I Run Associated Spring cups to lower the car.
Ride height is 5.5 mm front and 6 mm back.
Front caster is standard.
Camber is -1*
Toe is 0*
Front shock is all the way in on the top, in the inner hole towards the chassis on the bottom arm to clear the tires.
Rear Camber is -1*
Toe is stock 2.5*
Rear shock is second hole in on top, outer hole on the bottom.

I also now run carbon E4 shock towers front and back and the front one way in both cars.

Rear arm mod: Shave the first 3 mm off the front cone of the Rear lower arm and slide it forward with spacers. DRAMATIC handling increase. Do not use the FS rear arms! I tried, messed up the ride height badly.

Ackerman is left alone, All links are as high as I can get them and as far in as possible on the bulkhead.

I run an SMC 4000 28C and the wires route right past the ESC cooling plate. Any top routing lipo will work also. I have not tried the plug in connector type batteries at this point. If you need to add weight to the belt side, it fits perfectly right by the rear belt tension pulley on the bottom of the chassis and does not rub the belt. I think I have 4 pieces of lead in mine to balance it.

A gotcha or two, because the front wheels for VTA have such massive backspacing you will rub the inside of the tire if you don't set your end points. The steering arm can also make contact with the front pulley and will rip it to shreds.

I'm running PRS Spurs and pinions. Spur is 94, pinion is a 44 or 43 at the moment, but can go up to a 46 for a perfect 4.2. If you run 4.2 make sure you have the motor heat sink.

Tire tricks:

Tip 1: Don't race on new tires. Unlike TC Tires these things don't come in for a few races. Go clean off the form release and scuff them by running on clean pavement with out compound. The minute they shine goes away, you're set.

If you run carpet, sauce the whole front then practice. By the end of the day, I'm usually only running in on the inside 1/8 of the tire. I never pick up fuzz on my tires and never ever lose traction for the whole race. If the front end still slides after initial practice, add another -.5* camber.


for the gent who asked if this chassis is tweaked: NO, but it sure flexes nice.

Much appreciated, thanks

Don't stress over the drive train. It may never become as free as a two belt car. It doesn't seem to affect the performance as many stated on here. I been running 17.5 and 13.5 and have no problems keeping up with those funny looking two belt cars.:)

Just curious to find out what others were doing at the birids as I have been told that with some TLC and tweaking some guys picked up .3 a lap and motor temps dropped almost 60 degrees. That is huge! Waht FDR are you running with your 17.5, I cannot get any lower then 4.4 or it cooks. Need to try to get down to 3.9 or 4.0 if possible.

Wow 60 degrees that is huge. I'm currently running an FDR of 4.4 but that's with the boost timing on my Tekin speedo set to the max. Running that speedo setup I had to drop a few teeth on the pinion. With a fan my temps are around 150ish.

I belive you need more than 145 teeth total and no more than 152.
4/2.0588=1.943
147/1.943=75.6, But we need a hole number there so if you have a 75 tooth use that one.
75/1.943=38.6... ok 39
39+75=114
Ok so we need a small spur gear , But thats not going to reach with that gear combo. Let's try about 25% more.
93/1.943=47.8 ok call it 48
93+48=141 .... not quite enough teeth just yet. Only need a few more to mesh. I dont like running repeating grear ratios like 2.0 as its wears out the gears faster so ... lets try this one more time with a 99 tooth.
99/1.943=~51
99+51=150 Awesome and 2 teeth to spare on the pinion. We can always fine tune it with the spur gear too. But there you go
99 spur /51 pinion = 1.9412
1.9412 * 2.0588 = 3.996 I' call that a 4.0 final....

99/53 is a 3.85 so If you buy a 99 spur get 51, 52, 53 pinion.
Remember try to keep the total amount of teeth between 145 and 152! :tire:

I was running a 3.95 fdr at the birds in 17.5. It was a 96 spur and and 50 pinion. My motor was a hacker 17.5 and it had mad rip and a decent top speed. Motor came off at 140? No heatsink or fans on my car? Couldnt have went up probably two teeth without having to worry about heatsink or fan.

anyone?

Every plastic tub chassis will need to be replaced after a season of racing .. They will all eventually warp!

Yes Howard it was foam. Dave's car looked pretty good, I on the other hand didn't get the car working until it was too late. Oh well, more practice and testing will fix that. Met Wolf and the gang for the first time. Got to see the goodies they have coming. I ended up 7th in Trans Am with my E4RS. It drove great all week and makes a very good T/A car.

I would bet that it's the best T/A due to the spec tire & lack of grip. The long suspension arms and all hook it right back up. My 416 didnt like those vintage rubbers as well as the E4. It's got the right stuff .. Lets just say like that . Nice and simple like . :batman:

Liljohn also answered your question at the end of Post #1831.

oh, did not see that. Well, how bout welcoming a future owner of a team magic car.

I keep 2 spare tubs, 2 front subs and 2 rear subs on hand all the time. It has not warped or tweaked to date. I have broken a rear sub chassis and a front with a head on and not tweaked the tub. My son has torn both ends off the car twice and broken the ESC protector on the side of the tub, but tub is still intact and has not tweaked. I have not replaced a tub. I do and have wished for stronger front and rear sub chassis as they get damaged more from a heavy side impact than front or rear heavy impact. My son drives his like a Traxxas Slash and it holds up great. I should take a film. He makes his car look like something out of the Dukes of Hazard going airborne all the time. :lol: :lol:

What's with all the math, I can figure FDR just fine. I wanted to know what FDR others were running at the birds to get an idea.
But thanks anyway.