CRC 1/10 Pan Car
#1441
Hello,
I've got a question
Has anyone put 2 s1 lipo on the new LE chassis jet.
What i mean is side by side, so you have more space to put your electronics a the front.
This because this summer i want to run the LE with 2 s1 lipo and 10.5 turns motor.
Gtz KC
I've got a question
Has anyone put 2 s1 lipo on the new LE chassis jet.
What i mean is side by side, so you have more space to put your electronics a the front.
This because this summer i want to run the LE with 2 s1 lipo and 10.5 turns motor.
Gtz KC
#1442
Hi Kees,
Do you mean 2 times 1s lipo side by side in configuration like a 2s saddlepack? The 1s lipo's for 1/12 are longer then a standard saddle pack. Not sure if there are any provisions to use tape at the back to hold the 1s lipos. Looking at the pictures it seems that saddle packs can't be used side by side as the damper tube braces will be in the way to put the packs all the way back together. Not sure if it is a problem setup wise to put the packs a little further to the front so it can clear the braces. It doesn't nescesarily have to be bad but it is something to test. Next time bring the chassis with you, we can see how it will fit with my saddle pack. For indoor use it might be better to put the packs in line. Less weight transfer then and the car rotates easier.
Do you mean 2 times 1s lipo side by side in configuration like a 2s saddlepack? The 1s lipo's for 1/12 are longer then a standard saddle pack. Not sure if there are any provisions to use tape at the back to hold the 1s lipos. Looking at the pictures it seems that saddle packs can't be used side by side as the damper tube braces will be in the way to put the packs all the way back together. Not sure if it is a problem setup wise to put the packs a little further to the front so it can clear the braces. It doesn't nescesarily have to be bad but it is something to test. Next time bring the chassis with you, we can see how it will fit with my saddle pack. For indoor use it might be better to put the packs in line. Less weight transfer then and the car rotates easier.
#1443
Hai Alexander,
Yes correct s2 sadle pack.
I test fitted 2 s2 lipo's they fit fine between the side links.
Between the side links and the chassis i can use tape from left to right.
The only problem is how to fit the centershock, i need to make new fitment for that.
The problem with s2 lipo is that they are to thik, so i have to raise the upperdeck and the centershok.
Yes correct s2 sadle pack.
I test fitted 2 s2 lipo's they fit fine between the side links.
Between the side links and the chassis i can use tape from left to right.
The only problem is how to fit the centershock, i need to make new fitment for that.
The problem with s2 lipo is that they are to thik, so i have to raise the upperdeck and the centershok.
#1444
are you sure they fit between the side tubedamper braces? On the pictures it seems that there is no room to put 2x 1s lipo inbetween the dampertube braces. Maybe it is just how the picture is taken or something. http://teamcrc.com/crc/images/storie..._back_batt.jpg
You could extend the ballcup that is on the lipo brace by using some aluminium threaded tubes or something and extending it all the way towards the middle hole on the chassis and just leave the topdeck off. Depending how the shock is made it could be done?
Like on this picture but then further away. http://teamcrc.com/crc/images/storie...cross_batt.jpg
I will ask on the german forum how they did it. Someone there used the XL as well in 2s configuration.
You could extend the ballcup that is on the lipo brace by using some aluminium threaded tubes or something and extending it all the way towards the middle hole on the chassis and just leave the topdeck off. Depending how the shock is made it could be done?
Like on this picture but then further away. http://teamcrc.com/crc/images/storie...cross_batt.jpg
I will ask on the german forum how they did it. Someone there used the XL as well in 2s configuration.
#1445
Thats what i intent to do, i test fitted 2 s2 lipos. If they are the same width as Side by Side lipos, than it Will fit.
Damn they deleted my account. :-(
Damn they deleted my account. :-(
Last edited by westy1969; 01-17-2011 at 10:14 AM.
#1446
Well let me know what you techs think, like i earlier said i'm going to run it this summer with 10.5 turn motor.
I cut out a peace of paper with the same dimensions as a saddle pack.
These are the options i have;
And this is how it looksl like if the lipo's are placed on the chassis.
Sry for the bad pics.
I cut out a peace of paper with the same dimensions as a saddle pack.
These are the options i have;
And this is how it looksl like if the lipo's are placed on the chassis.
Sry for the bad pics.
#1447
are you sure you want to have 2 times 2s lipo's on the chassis? Or was that just to show the width of the lipo's on the chasis.
Just to be sure you know......There is a difference with 1s lipo from the 1/12 scale and the size of the individual bricks that make up a saddlepack. In the message before you were talkign about two times 1s lipo's from the 1/12 pancars (or i just misread it?). Now you are talking about saddlepacks. So you want to use saddlepacks instead? ...Just to be sure i know what we are talking about lol.
If the paper cutout is the size of a saddlepack then i would go with option 1. You also could place the lipo's like in option 2 but then all the way to the back. You will have less side to side weight transfer with option 2 (when placed towards teh rear) then with option 1. Leave some room so you can adjust the saddlepacks a little to the front and back. So place the electronics a little forward so you have some adjustments you can do for different track conditions.
Option 3 are the BMI way and i drove like that with my BMI on the 1/8 track in Rucphen during our nationals last year. I had to put more then 50 grams of lead all the way at the back behind the lipo's and under my electronics to make the rear planted when exiting corners.
Just to be sure you know......There is a difference with 1s lipo from the 1/12 scale and the size of the individual bricks that make up a saddlepack. In the message before you were talkign about two times 1s lipo's from the 1/12 pancars (or i just misread it?). Now you are talking about saddlepacks. So you want to use saddlepacks instead? ...Just to be sure i know what we are talking about lol.
If the paper cutout is the size of a saddlepack then i would go with option 1. You also could place the lipo's like in option 2 but then all the way to the back. You will have less side to side weight transfer with option 2 (when placed towards teh rear) then with option 1. Leave some room so you can adjust the saddlepacks a little to the front and back. So place the electronics a little forward so you have some adjustments you can do for different track conditions.
Option 3 are the BMI way and i drove like that with my BMI on the 1/8 track in Rucphen during our nationals last year. I had to put more then 50 grams of lead all the way at the back behind the lipo's and under my electronics to make the rear planted when exiting corners.
Last edited by 2wdrive; 01-17-2011 at 11:47 AM.
#1448
LOL, yes just a test fit for the width.
LOL, yes my bad, i meant a saddle pack (forgot what it was called)
Option 1 i also thought that it was the best option, maybe 3 for indoor 17.5 turns more weight balance.
So now i have to figure out how to place the center chock.
Thx
LOL, yes my bad, i meant a saddle pack (forgot what it was called)
Option 1 i also thought that it was the best option, maybe 3 for indoor 17.5 turns more weight balance.
So now i have to figure out how to place the center chock.
Thx
#1449
LOL, yes just a test fit for the width.
LOL, yes my bad, i meant a saddle pack (forgot what it was called)
Option 1 i also thought that it was the best option, maybe 3 for indoor 17.5 turns more weight balance.
So now i have to figure out how to place the center chock.
Thx
LOL, yes my bad, i meant a saddle pack (forgot what it was called)
Option 1 i also thought that it was the best option, maybe 3 for indoor 17.5 turns more weight balance.
So now i have to figure out how to place the center chock.
Thx
#1450
LOL, yes just a test fit for the width.
LOL, yes my bad, i meant a saddle pack (forgot what it was called)
Option 1 i also thought that it was the best option, maybe 3 for indoor 17.5 turns more weight balance.
So now i have to figure out how to place the center chock.
Thx
LOL, yes my bad, i meant a saddle pack (forgot what it was called)
Option 1 i also thought that it was the best option, maybe 3 for indoor 17.5 turns more weight balance.
So now i have to figure out how to place the center chock.
Thx
Basically 2s thickness but 1s width and length (only 3mm longer)
Product Specifications
Type: LiPo
Capacity: 3800mAh
Voltage: 7.4V
Number of Cells: 2S
Weight: 7.07oz (200.5g)
Configuration: 2S2P
Length: 95.9mm (3.78")
Width: 46.9mm (1.85")
Height: 24.7mm (0.97")
Maximum Continuous Discharge: 60C
Maximum Continuous Current: 228A
#1451
The measurments are great except 3800mAh is too low with a 10.5t on a big 1/8 track. We drive 7 minutes and we consume roughly 3300-3500mAh. Even 4200 is on the low side. I would recommend 5000 or higher as you want to have some reserve for the lipo packs so they don't get hot and keep there voltage up for a longer period. I tried 4200mah saddles last year but they got hot and could not deliver the power long enough with dynamic esc.
#1452
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
Team Losi have a pack this size coming out shortly, so others may not be too far behind.
Basically 2s thickness but 1s width and length (only 3mm longer)
Product Specifications
Type: LiPo
Capacity: 3800mAh
Voltage: 7.4V
Number of Cells: 2S
Weight: 7.07oz (200.5g)
Configuration: 2S2P
Length: 95.9mm (3.78")
Width: 46.9mm (1.85")
Height: 24.7mm (0.97")
Maximum Continuous Discharge: 60C
Maximum Continuous Current: 228A
Basically 2s thickness but 1s width and length (only 3mm longer)
Product Specifications
Type: LiPo
Capacity: 3800mAh
Voltage: 7.4V
Number of Cells: 2S
Weight: 7.07oz (200.5g)
Configuration: 2S2P
Length: 95.9mm (3.78")
Width: 46.9mm (1.85")
Height: 24.7mm (0.97")
Maximum Continuous Discharge: 60C
Maximum Continuous Current: 228A
#1453
I'm hoping someone can give me a little insight on the front end setup of the LE. I've noticed on the setup sheets I've reviewed some settings that I'm not sure about, more specifically, what the affects are and how to change these ? Track width, upper arm height, upper arm length, riser ? Any help on these would be greatly appreciated. Thanks !
#1454
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
I'm hoping someone can give me a little insight on the front end setup of the LE. I've noticed on the setup sheets I've reviewed some settings that I'm not sure about, more specifically, what the affects are and how to change these ? Track width, upper arm height, upper arm length, riser ? Any help on these would be greatly appreciated. Thanks !
#1455
I'm hoping someone can give me a little insight on the front end setup of the LE. I've noticed on the setup sheets I've reviewed some settings that I'm not sure about, more specifically, what the affects are and how to change these ? Track width, upper arm height, upper arm length, riser ? Any help on these would be greatly appreciated. Thanks !
Narrower track leads to quicker steering...Can smooth out (slow) steering by widening. Change width with equal number of 3/16" shims on the front axles.
Raising the upper arm hinge pin location leads to less angular change as the arm moves up and down...Less negative camber change results. Use #3230 Pro Strut Roll Center Kit ($4.99 retail) to do this mod.
Have not done the long arm conversion; but, to my thinking, the long arms create less negative camber change like the above tuning mod can do. The above solution is far simpler to change out when circumstances change.
Risers? If I am understanding correctly, #4262 Front Ride Height Shims will allow you to set your front height to just over 4mm. If you only run smaller front tires (54mm and under), you can get by with one set. Otherwise, think about having two sets to work with.
Plus...
Using 1/12th kingpins with #50/#55 springs is an important mod for all carpet conditions. The suspension reacts/recovers faster than with the standard setup with 1/10th kingpins/springs. Really noticeable during any quick direction changes with the car.
Brian Wynn's (Dumper's) WGT setup sheet for the 2010 IIC is gold. Available on the CRC website.
Bill