Tamiya mini cooper
Tech Adept
BILKO1,
I have the HW Brushless 13T/35a combo and 20t pinion .
Motor using 15 degrees advance timing.
Ran laps for 20mins (ambient temp 80f) at race speed no heat problems.
EDIT: I've also run the 9t combo with the same positive results.
I'd be checking the meshing if heats an issue.
Alternatively, if you have signifcant tyre wear the car may be approaching the point whereby it becomes undergeared - but unlikely.
robl08,
The chassis configuration (short / long /medium) is about as insignificant as the type of oil used in the shocks (A tourer is another thing altogether though).
Tyres are what determines success with the Tamiya Mini.
Use the wrong tyre combination and you can traction roll any of the three configurations with ease. Get the tyre selection right and all of them will perform great.
cheers
I have the HW Brushless 13T/35a combo and 20t pinion .
Motor using 15 degrees advance timing.
Ran laps for 20mins (ambient temp 80f) at race speed no heat problems.
EDIT: I've also run the 9t combo with the same positive results.
I'd be checking the meshing if heats an issue.
Alternatively, if you have signifcant tyre wear the car may be approaching the point whereby it becomes undergeared - but unlikely.
robl08,
The chassis configuration (short / long /medium) is about as insignificant as the type of oil used in the shocks (A tourer is another thing altogether though).
Tyres are what determines success with the Tamiya Mini.
Use the wrong tyre combination and you can traction roll any of the three configurations with ease. Get the tyre selection right and all of them will perform great.
cheers
Tech Apprentice
I use the standard Tamiya 20t that comes in the m-03 and m-05 kits and have not had any failures so far.
Tamiya Part #50356
I have not tried the RC 0.6 Alum Pinion Gear - Hard Fluorine Coated 20T
Tamiya Part #53059
cheers
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
I use the #53059 on mine, has lasted 2 years with no wear. Changed a couple of gearsets on the M03 and one on the M05.
Tech Apprentice
has anyone else used these on their cars. i used it on my M-03 and the top end speed seem to go away. haven't had a chance to take the car apart properly and look for other issues but the car was just fine before installing these with regular CVD's:
http://www.egrracing.com/shop/cv-uni...es-p-3696.html
http://www.egrracing.com/shop/cv-uni...es-p-3696.html
Tech Apprentice
As far as slowing down the car all I can think of is that you might have gone overboard on the grease or perhaps over-tightened a wheel nut ?
Otherwise - I got nothing.
cheers.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (22)
has anyone else used these on their cars. i used it on my M-03 and the top end speed seem to go away. haven't had a chance to take the car apart properly and look for other issues but the car was just fine before installing these with regular CVD's:
http://www.egrracing.com/shop/cv-uni...es-p-3696.html
http://www.egrracing.com/shop/cv-uni...es-p-3696.html
When you tightened up the wheel nuts it may have put excessive side load on the wheel bearings. All axle to the drive pin behind the wheel hex are of slight difference in length.
I use 5mm spacers between the bearings as a squish tube so as you can really tighten up the wheels without putting to much side load on the wheel bearings.
As for the axles in higher grip they tend to not last all that long. The pins break and then they destroy themselves under rotation after the pin breaks.
Thanks for inputs ,yea I'm developing a feeling it's nut tightening issues. This unit comes with it's own inner knuckle bearing with a thinner width which is kinda curious as well.
a teaser for the new M-06???...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0nqAf...yer_embedded#!
rear-wheel drive now.. what's your take on this miniers?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0nqAf...yer_embedded#!
rear-wheel drive now.. what's your take on this miniers?
Ball Diff
Where I race in UK have now allowed ball diff’s ,
Just wanted to know if the mini 3-Racing ball diff was ok,
or would you recommend another make.
Just wanted to know if the mini 3-Racing ball diff was ok,
or would you recommend another make.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
For M03 i would rather use TA03 balldiff.
For M05 i use 3racing with Tamiya thrustbearing, 2.4mm ceramic balls and TRF screw and nut. Seems to hold up better this way than Tamiya's own M05 balldiff. The orginal 3racing thrustbearing is junk, did not last a batterypack before it was worn out. I use standard TA05 bearing in mine.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (136)
I have read some negative comments on the 3Racing diff. I think most people recommend the TA03 diff or the M05, but I'm sure others will way in.
Is it for the M05 or M03?
For M03 i would rather use TA03 balldiff.
For M05 i use 3racing with Tamiya thrustbearing, 2.4mm ceramic balls and TRF screw and nut. Seems to hold up better this way than Tamiya's own M05 balldiff. The orginal 3racing thrustbearing is junk, did not last a batterypack before it was worn out. I use standard TA05 bearing in mine.
For M03 i would rather use TA03 balldiff.
For M05 i use 3racing with Tamiya thrustbearing, 2.4mm ceramic balls and TRF screw and nut. Seems to hold up better this way than Tamiya's own M05 balldiff. The orginal 3racing thrustbearing is junk, did not last a batterypack before it was worn out. I use standard TA05 bearing in mine.
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Kind of off topic. Yesterday I got in a massive car accident. Some of my rc stuff was in the trunk/backseat of my car. I'm just dreading to see how many pieces my little mini is in now. My 1/1 car is mangled. That was a bad ass car. 2006 Subaru Impreza.
m06 pro vs. m05 pro, it's going to be a showdown in the upcoming tcs series.