288LikesTamiya mini cooper
03-05-2010, 10:41 PM
Niznai,
I was referring to your "slotting" and how the cap screw isn't directly accessible.
F.Y.I, I undo the upper camber link screw at the upright, it drops down ( I use a touring car stand) to make access to the screw a cinch.
I was referring to your "slotting" and how the cap screw isn't directly accessible.
F.Y.I, I undo the upper camber link screw at the upright, it drops down ( I use a touring car stand) to make access to the screw a cinch.
03-05-2010, 11:03 PM
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Does wheel base really matter with these cars, or are good tires/wheels/skill whats mainly needed to win?
03-05-2010, 11:08 PM
Taking off and having to put back on the camber link is what everybody is trying to avoid these days in TC.
Originally Posted by mariob62
Don't get your knickers in a twist. Other people are entitled to their opinions. Some of the info you post is misleading & we don't want any noobs to Mini to go down the wrong road.
03-06-2010, 06:36 AM
And how exactly, may I ask, is what I said above different to what you said?
I am aware of what you're trying to achieve.
Regardless of what your reason is to tighten the diff the same laws apply and the key limiting factor to all of this is friction, be it between wheels and road or balls and ballrace. What you're trying to do is balance the grip available at the wheels against the friction generated by the tension on the spring. You can indeed tighten the screw until your diff is well and truly locked, if there is no grip at the wheels they'll just spin. If there is enough, then come first corner your wheels will fight one another and something has to give. If the diff doesn't slip, then one of the wheels will. Past that point there is nothing to achieve no matter how much you tighten the screw. And I don't think at that point you would have tightened the diff screw more than in a TC car with some real power.
But that's beside the point anyway. The idea is you can get a grade 12 M2 screw at a good nut and bolt place.
I am aware of what you're trying to achieve.
Regardless of what your reason is to tighten the diff the same laws apply and the key limiting factor to all of this is friction, be it between wheels and road or balls and ballrace. What you're trying to do is balance the grip available at the wheels against the friction generated by the tension on the spring. You can indeed tighten the screw until your diff is well and truly locked, if there is no grip at the wheels they'll just spin. If there is enough, then come first corner your wheels will fight one another and something has to give. If the diff doesn't slip, then one of the wheels will. Past that point there is nothing to achieve no matter how much you tighten the screw. And I don't think at that point you would have tightened the diff screw more than in a TC car with some real power.
But that's beside the point anyway. The idea is you can get a grade 12 M2 screw at a good nut and bolt place.
03-06-2010, 06:46 AM
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03-06-2010, 07:04 AM
I am from Belgium and that's not something I can do. When I go to a hardware store and ask for M2 bolts they'll answer: "M2? Thats very tiny, no sorry, we don't have that." When I go to a specialized hardware store that should carry all kind of bolts, they'll answer: "M2? Ok, what lenght?" 25mm please. "25mm!? No sorry, we only have 6 and 8mm." Let alone me asking for hardness, color, hex or slotted! When I need something the WEB is all I got.
03-06-2010, 07:51 AM
I am from Belgium and that's not something I can do. When I go to a hardware store and ask for M2 bolts they'll answer: "M2? Thats very tiny, no sorry, we don't have that." When I go to a specialized hardware store that should carry all kind of bolts, they'll answer: "M2? Ok, what lenght?" 25mm please. "25mm!? No sorry, we only have 6 and 8mm." Let alone me asking for hardness, color, hex or slotted! When I need something the WEB is all I got.
no chance of getting hardwere here for RC cars at the hardwere stores in europe !!!
03-06-2010, 08:14 AM
I was surprised too, but aparently in Australia, everything below a certain size
is not worth bringing in if it's not a higher grade.
To my surprise though, I found in Europe (Austria - in Vienna, no less) a very good nut and bolt shop no more than 10 minutes walk from the center. Just blind luck. I am pretty sure they can be found in Holland as well, you just need to dig a bit deeper. Don't waste your time with "normal" hardware stores, they don't carry that sort of stuff here either. Specialised nut and bolt shops are another kettle of fish.
And again a big surprise, this time in the US where I would not expect to find anything in metric size, I found some pretty darn good suppliers of anything you want. One size that comes to mind is grade 8.8 M7 allen heads (not RC related) that I had to buy there because I could not find them in Oz (or anywhere else). Took me a couple of years but I got them.
is not worth bringing in if it's not a higher grade.
To my surprise though, I found in Europe (Austria - in Vienna, no less) a very good nut and bolt shop no more than 10 minutes walk from the center. Just blind luck. I am pretty sure they can be found in Holland as well, you just need to dig a bit deeper. Don't waste your time with "normal" hardware stores, they don't carry that sort of stuff here either. Specialised nut and bolt shops are another kettle of fish.
And again a big surprise, this time in the US where I would not expect to find anything in metric size, I found some pretty darn good suppliers of anything you want. One size that comes to mind is grade 8.8 M7 allen heads (not RC related) that I had to buy there because I could not find them in Oz (or anywhere else). Took me a couple of years but I got them.
Last edited by niznai; 03-06-2010 at 08:37 AM.
03-06-2010, 08:17 AM
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Sorry, I thought this was the Tamiya Mini Cooper forum.
03-06-2010, 08:18 AM
Tech Rookie
Okay--- I'm trying to find Long wheelbase bodies for my new MO 5's--where is the best place to find these? Looking at Ebay---there's a lot of them out there--but shipping from overseas is expensive. Is there anyone here in the states stocking these guys?? I picked up a new MO 5 kit---but the body in it is for a short wheelbase--and I would think--longer is better if these things are a little twitchy!!
So HELP!!!! What's the best answer???
Tim
So HELP!!!! What's the best answer???
Tim
03-06-2010, 08:35 AM
http://cgi.ebay.com/TAMIYA-VW-V-W-GO...0#ht_500wt_866
03-06-2010, 09:02 AM
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03-06-2010, 03:40 PM
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It's a 220mm long wheelbase body---the stock MO5 is 210---my new blingeron model is 220--So Now I'll have a long and medium wheelbase once I get done building the kit!!!
Tuesday night she'll be maidened!!! MINI MADNESS---HERE I COME!!!!
03-06-2010, 07:52 PM
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That body is available right now on the Tamiya web site for $20!!!! I just picked one up today at my LHS---they met the price for me!!!
It's a 220mm long wheelbase body---the stock MO5 is 210---my new blingeron model is 220--So Now I'll have a long and medium wheelbase once I get done building the kit!!!
Tuesday night she'll be maidened!!! MINI MADNESS---HERE I COME!!!!
It's a 220mm long wheelbase body---the stock MO5 is 210---my new blingeron model is 220--So Now I'll have a long and medium wheelbase once I get done building the kit!!!
Tuesday night she'll be maidened!!! MINI MADNESS---HERE I COME!!!!
You should have brought your mini to TQ RC tonight for racing. Carpet racing on this track IS a blast!
03-06-2010, 09:27 PM
Hi everyone!
Ok, so I am pretty new to the whole RC racing thing, but I was wondering if I could get some help here. I have an M04L Beetle that I am thinking about running with the local club. I believe most of the people have FWD cars, so finding help on setup for my car has been a bit difficult. I was wondering if any of you guys could help me out with a base set-up for my car. As of right now, it is bone stock. The track I will be running is out doors, high grip asphalt. Right now I am thinking of getting a ball diff and oil shocks, but I am not sure where to go from there. Any advice would be great. Thanks!
GS
Ok, so I am pretty new to the whole RC racing thing, but I was wondering if I could get some help here. I have an M04L Beetle that I am thinking about running with the local club. I believe most of the people have FWD cars, so finding help on setup for my car has been a bit difficult. I was wondering if any of you guys could help me out with a base set-up for my car. As of right now, it is bone stock. The track I will be running is out doors, high grip asphalt. Right now I am thinking of getting a ball diff and oil shocks, but I am not sure where to go from there. Any advice would be great. Thanks!
GS