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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 01-29-2016, 12:24 PM
  #26731  
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
Running a spec 2200kv motor. One of the HW 380 in a 540 size can't things. They're torquey little buggers. When combined with the weight transfer of rwd and the traction of carpet, those pot metal differential bits don't last
long.

The 04 uses the same, smaller bearing size as the 03. There are cheats to fit a newer diff, but I don't have a machine shop at my disposal to make it happen.
Here I thought that m chassis gear diff was indestructible. Learn something new every day.

Any chance you can use the spider gears from any of the other ta, tb, trf doffs?
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Old 01-29-2016, 12:57 PM
  #26732  
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Hadn't considered that. I know the internals are shared across dozens of platforms, but maybe they made a better version for a better car?

If anyone knows ways to make the stock diff stronger, I'd be happy to hear them. The problem has been the gears wedging and welding together under severe loads. I've tried a few methods of smoothing them out, including minty fresh, breaking them in with toothpaste trick. My latest was polishing all the parts with a Dremel and removing potential interference fit "design flaws". Have to see how it goes.
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Old 01-31-2016, 10:40 AM
  #26733  
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Default Ball diff on M05

Quick question, I am using the tamiya ball diff with the lightened swing shaft. Is it normal to only have one side of the swing shaft with the shaft protector (plastic blade) and the other side without one? I cannot install the blade on the other side due to the clearance issues with the diff nut. I noticed this has caused the diff cup to develop a "pit" as well as increased "slop". There was already slop to begin with without the blade, but now I have to replace the diff cup but was curious if this is the norm or I built something wrong.

I did my best to search out an answer and read about posts about diffs, just did not notice anyone mention the slop or lack of being able to use both of the blades. So apologies if I missed this and am asking a redundant question.

Thanks
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Old 01-31-2016, 11:05 AM
  #26734  
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Originally Posted by teknorookie
Quick question, I am using the tamiya ball diff with the lightened swing shaft. Is it normal to only have one side of the swing shaft with the shaft protector (plastic blade) and the other side without one? I cannot install the blade on the other side due to the clearance issues with the diff nut. I noticed this has caused the diff cup to develop a "pit" as well as increased "slop". There was already slop to begin with without the blade, but now I have to replace the diff cup but was curious if this is the norm or I built something wrong.

I did my best to search out an answer and read about posts about diffs, just did not notice anyone mention the slop or lack of being able to use both of the blades. So apologies if I missed this and am asking a redundant question.

Thanks
What sort of clearance issues are you talking about?
The "cup" wont fit inside the Diff?
Sounds like maybe you put the Screw and nut in backwards
if that's where you are having issues
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Old 01-31-2016, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by KA2AEV
What sort of clearance issues are you talking about?
The "cup" wont fit inside the Diff?
Sounds like maybe you put the Screw and nut in backwards
if that's where you are having issues

The clearance issue is when I use the blade on the shaft, I am unable to properly seat the upright. If I remove the blade, the upright mounts fine, except I have slop inside the cup with the shaft and dogbone. I will recheck the install of the diff nut, but I think I got it right. Maybe tear it down and rebuil just to make sure I covered it right.

Thanks!
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Old 01-31-2016, 12:18 PM
  #26736  
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Originally Posted by teknorookie
The clearance issue is when I use the blade on the shaft, I am unable to properly seat the upright. If I remove the blade, the upright mounts fine, except I have slop inside the cup with the shaft and dogbone. I will recheck the install of the diff nut, but I think I got it right. Maybe tear it down and rebuil just to make sure I covered it right.

Thanks!
Is this the M05 ball diff? If so I'd bet you have the diff halves swapped in the wrong side. If you look, the spring and retaining nut will slide in deeper on one diff out drive more than the other. If you build it in reverse you will not get clearance on one side...the swing shaft will make contact with the diff bolt/nut.
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Old 01-31-2016, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by KA2AEV
What sort of clearance issues are you talking about?
The "cup" wont fit inside the Diff?
Sounds like maybe you put the Screw and nut in backwards
if that's where you are having issues

I rechecked everything. Install is by the book. Same issue.

Below is a link that shows the clearance problem I have when I use the plastic blade with the shaft. Also, you can see the "pit" mark made when running it without the plastic blade.

Appreciate the input.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...aft-issue.html
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Old 01-31-2016, 12:28 PM
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Note the differences in the diff halves...build it using the diff halves swapped and it will do exactly what you're showing.
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Old 01-31-2016, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Core Creations
Is this the M05 ball diff? If so I'd bet you have the diff halves swapped in the wrong side. If you look, the spring and retaining nut will slide in deeper on one diff out drive more than the other. If you build it in reverse you will not get clearance on one side...the swing shaft will make contact with the diff bolt/nut.

Thank you for the help, that did it. Can't believe I overlooked that. I really feel like a dumbass right about now.
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Old 01-31-2016, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by teknorookie
Thank you for the help, that did it. Can't believe I overlooked that. I really feel like a dumbass right about now.
No problem....I wouldn't know if I hadn't done the same thing building a diff in a hurry. Glad it worked!
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Old 01-31-2016, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by teknorookie
Thank you for the help, that did it. Can't believe I overlooked that. I really feel like a dumbass right about now.
It happens, I doubt there is not one of us on here that it has happened to!
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Old 01-31-2016, 02:22 PM
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Hey since we're on diffs
Does anyone know if the part Y2 in the above drawing comes in metal or aluminum???
I was just doing some basic PM on one of my Diffs and found a hairline crack in it
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Old 01-31-2016, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by KA2AEV
Hey since we're on diffs
Does anyone know if the part Y2 in the above drawing comes in metal or aluminum???
I was just doing some basic PM on one of my Diffs and found a hairline crack in it
I'm assuming something like this would work...

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...FRApaQodbu4EZg
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Old 01-31-2016, 06:54 PM
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Since we're still talking about diffs....I've posted this one before. It's from ruebiracer (on Tamiyaclub) showing how to modify an M03 chassis to fit a Spec-R gear diff. But, I recall a few months ago, someone showed how to fit the TOP Racing diff without modifying the chassis. Does anyone remember who that was?

I believe it involved removing the bearing carriers on the diff completely and running the standard 1150 bearing directly on the outdrives. Ring any bells?

Pretty sure if I search for "top" or "diff" in this thread, I'd regret it. I really wish this site allowed for Boolean searches.
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Old 01-31-2016, 07:51 PM
  #26745  
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Originally Posted by Core Creations
I'm assuming something like this would work...

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...FRApaQodbu4EZg
Yeah that would, I'm guessing that's aluminum or some type of cast right?
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