Tamiya mini cooper
You need to use a foam pillow with those. The little red discs, cut in half (on the thickness) if need be.
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
It honestly feels like it needs a thinner bearing on the inside of the front uprights. Like I said, I must be doing something wrong.
Last edited by Carnage9270; 06-11-2014 at 08:34 AM.
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
If you're using universals, you don't need anything in the outdrives.
If you're using the TA03 diff, or the mini gear diff your outdrives will come out. If you have TC style M05 ball diff, no, you don't need anything.
The foam pillows compress. And if you cut them in half they're exactly as thick as needed to keep everything nice and tight.
The foam pillows compress. And if you cut them in half they're exactly as thick as needed to keep everything nice and tight.
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
Hehe, yeah that's what I figured because it's bottoming out with nothing in the outdrives.
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
If you're using the TA03 diff, or the mini gear diff your outdrives will come out. If you have TC style M05 ball diff, no, you don't need anything.
The foam pillows compress. And if you cut them in half they're exactly as thick as needed to keep everything nice and tight.
The foam pillows compress. And if you cut them in half they're exactly as thick as needed to keep everything nice and tight.
With the universals, you use the standard bearings (1150) in the front uprights correct?
Tech Elite
Could you check this????? From the symptoms, it almost sounds as if you're using the splined outdrives from a gear diff. The splines on a Ball diff outdrive is a bit shorter. I have seen people do this before.
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
If you're talking about the wheel bearings, they are 1050. This should not be a problem as you would not have been able to assemble with 1150 bearings. The old style M03 uprights used the 1150.
Could you check this????? From the symptoms, it almost sounds as if you're using the splined outdrives from a gear diff. The splines on a Ball diff outdrive is a bit shorter. I have seen people do this before.
Could you check this????? From the symptoms, it almost sounds as if you're using the splined outdrives from a gear diff. The splines on a Ball diff outdrive is a bit shorter. I have seen people do this before.
I'm using the TA03 Ball Diff 53267 (it has splines like you are saying, but it's the only outdrives it came with), Tamiya Universals 53597 and the 54177 aluminum front uprights. I should be heading home here in a few and I can post up some pics if you would like to see what I'm experiencing.
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
I've never had an outdrive come out in 6 years of racing, but I suppose it's possible.
Got my Ver.II. It does appear, upon initial inspection, that the old style motor plate will still fit. At least the number on the parts tree is the same. Otherwise, this is another well thought out Tamiya kit.
What I'm most impressed with (in this transaction) is the insane packaging job Stellamodels does. The box was taped shut and the flaps glued down. Inside was styrofoam peanuts and a layer of bubble wrap. There was another, perfectly "gift wrapped", layer of bubble wrap around the Tamiya box as well. I love these guys.
Got my Ver.II. It does appear, upon initial inspection, that the old style motor plate will still fit. At least the number on the parts tree is the same. Otherwise, this is another well thought out Tamiya kit.
What I'm most impressed with (in this transaction) is the insane packaging job Stellamodels does. The box was taped shut and the flaps glued down. Inside was styrofoam peanuts and a layer of bubble wrap. There was another, perfectly "gift wrapped", layer of bubble wrap around the Tamiya box as well. I love these guys.
Last edited by monkeyracing; 06-11-2014 at 12:33 PM.
Tech Elite
Thanks Granpa,
I'm using the TA03 Ball Diff 53267 (it has splines like you are saying, but it's the only outdrives it came with), Tamiya Universals 53597 and the 54177 aluminum front uprights. I should be heading home here in a few and I can post up some pics if you would like to see what I'm experiencing.
I'm using the TA03 Ball Diff 53267 (it has splines like you are saying, but it's the only outdrives it came with), Tamiya Universals 53597 and the 54177 aluminum front uprights. I should be heading home here in a few and I can post up some pics if you would like to see what I'm experiencing.
I hope your problem was something like that and not some weird one off thing.
I've never had an outdrive come out in 6 years of racing, but I suppose it's possible.
Got my Ver.II. It does appear, initially, that the old motor plate will still fit. What I'm most impressed with is the insane packaging job Stellamodels does. The box was taped shut and the flaps glued down. Inside was styrofoam peanuts and a layer of bubble wrap. There was another later of bubble wrap around the Tamiya box as well. I love these guys.
Got my Ver.II. It does appear, initially, that the old motor plate will still fit. What I'm most impressed with is the insane packaging job Stellamodels does. The box was taped shut and the flaps glued down. Inside was styrofoam peanuts and a layer of bubble wrap. There was another later of bubble wrap around the Tamiya box as well. I love these guys.
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
If you're talking about the wheel bearings, they are 1050. This should not be a problem as you would not have been able to assemble with 1150 bearings. The old style M03 uprights used the 1150.
Could you check this????? From the symptoms, it almost sounds as if you're using the splined outdrives from a gear diff. The splines on a Ball diff outdrive is a bit shorter. I have seen people do this before.
Could you check this????? From the symptoms, it almost sounds as if you're using the splined outdrives from a gear diff. The splines on a Ball diff outdrive is a bit shorter. I have seen people do this before.
Here's a pic of what I was talking about. I think I see why they don't fit.
Where the axle meets the bearing appears to be a millimeter or two longer than the stock one. Is the V2 kit somehow different? I just can't see that.
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
Question about oil filled gear diffs: I'm sure I've asked before, but when you do a search for "oil" or "diff" it brings up enough results that having to cancel dinner plans becomes a real threat.
How much do you fill them up? 3Racing instructions would allow for some air to be left behind, but other instructions tell you to be sure there's no air.
The reason I'm wondering is the last time I built my diff, I stuffed it full of 500K oil and it seemed to leak from every possible crevice. I'm likely going with something much heavier (2M-2.5M wt) and I don't want to gum up my driveline again.
How much do you fill them up? 3Racing instructions would allow for some air to be left behind, but other instructions tell you to be sure there's no air.
The reason I'm wondering is the last time I built my diff, I stuffed it full of 500K oil and it seemed to leak from every possible crevice. I'm likely going with something much heavier (2M-2.5M wt) and I don't want to gum up my driveline again.
I just made a new one Jim. I used a syringe to put some in the bottom of one half. I then put the cross piece in. I then filled the small holes in and a bit more on top of the cross. When I put the top half on there were no leaks or oil coming out. The 500k doesn't need to be full. It is so thick it slows down the gears and give good action. The last one I filled with a knife fully and oil was everywhere. I hate when it gets on the outside and get in the drivetrain. So I like the syringe method now.
Jim,
I only use 300K oil in my oil gear diffs and fill a little above the cross. I used to use 500k but found it slowed the steering down and added wear to the 3Racing oil diff outdrives.
Using the weights your suggesting will give use less steering and start behaving like a spool. Not what you want.
The best oil gear diff I have found is the Top racing oil gear diff for the Sabre FWD car. These are what most are using now. They are less maintenance than the 3Racing product and only require extra spacers to fit inside the MO5, to reduce sideways movement. It also uses blades like the 3racing oil gear diff.
Top Racing oil gear diff part number is PO-SDT114
Not sure if that helps,
Regards,
Calvin.
I only use 300K oil in my oil gear diffs and fill a little above the cross. I used to use 500k but found it slowed the steering down and added wear to the 3Racing oil diff outdrives.
Using the weights your suggesting will give use less steering and start behaving like a spool. Not what you want.
The best oil gear diff I have found is the Top racing oil gear diff for the Sabre FWD car. These are what most are using now. They are less maintenance than the 3Racing product and only require extra spacers to fit inside the MO5, to reduce sideways movement. It also uses blades like the 3racing oil gear diff.
Top Racing oil gear diff part number is PO-SDT114
Not sure if that helps,
Regards,
Calvin.