niznai

You need to use a foam pillow with those. The little red discs, cut in half (on the thickness) if need be.

Carnage9270

iTrader: (6)

Wouldn't a foam pillow make them even worse? If I turn the wheels to the right or left it feels great, but when the wheels get to the straight position they are hard to turn because there is no space between the swing shafts and the outdrive. It's basically bottoming out in the outdrive when the wheels are in the straight position.

It honestly feels like it needs a thinner bearing on the inside of the front uprights. Like I said, I must be doing something wrong.

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

If you're using universals, you don't need anything in the outdrives.

niznai

If you're using the TA03 diff, or the mini gear diff your outdrives will come out. If you have TC style M05 ball diff, no, you don't need anything.

The foam pillows compress. And if you cut them in half they're exactly as thick as needed to keep everything nice and tight.

Carnage9270

iTrader: (6)

Hehe, yeah that's what I figured because it's bottoming out with nothing in the outdrives.

Carnage9270

iTrader: (6)

I'm using the TA03 diff, but with it being that tight when I turn the wheels straight I'm not even sure my servo could power through that.

With the universals, you use the standard bearings (1150) in the front uprights correct?

Granpa

If you're talking about the wheel bearings, they are 1050. This should not be a problem as you would not have been able to assemble with 1150 bearings. The old style M03 uprights used the 1150.

Could you check this????? From the symptoms, it almost sounds as if you're using the splined outdrives from a gear diff. The splines on a Ball diff outdrive is a bit shorter. I have seen people do this before.

Carnage9270

iTrader: (6)

Thanks Granpa,

I'm using the TA03 Ball Diff 53267 (it has splines like you are saying, but it's the only outdrives it came with), Tamiya Universals 53597 and the 54177 aluminum front uprights. I should be heading home here in a few and I can post up some pics if you would like to see what I'm experiencing.

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

I've never had an outdrive come out in 6 years of racing, but I suppose it's possible.

Got my Ver.II. It does appear, upon initial inspection, that the old style motor plate will still fit. At least the number on the parts tree is the same. Otherwise, this is another well thought out Tamiya kit.

What I'm most impressed with (in this transaction) is the insane packaging job Stellamodels does. The box was taped shut and the flaps glued down. Inside was styrofoam peanuts and a layer of bubble wrap. There was another, perfectly "gift wrapped", layer of bubble wrap around the Tamiya box as well. I love these guys.

Granpa

No need. Usually problems like this are assembly errors. The only other thing that I can think of might be the way you installed the bearings in the tranny. The other possibility is the diff installation although I really don't know if doing this catywampus will result in your problem. When I refer to Right side or Left side of the car, that's the view from the rear of the car, okay???? The outdrive with the shaft belongs on the right side. The diff goes onto the shaft with side with the cap on the left side. The short outdrive goes on the left. Refer to the instructions cause, it's sometimes easy to get stuff upside down or backwards.

I hope your problem was something like that and not some weird one off thing.

inpuressa

iTrader: (10)

Lucky, should've pre-ordered mines. Didn't think it'd sell out all over this fast

Carnage9270

iTrader: (6)

The reason I gave the 1150 bearing number is that is what is listed in the manual. I have no way of knowing if that's antiquated or truth because there isn't anything printed on the bags.

Here's a pic of what I was talking about. I think I see why they don't fit.



Where the axle meets the bearing appears to be a millimeter or two longer than the stock one. Is the V2 kit somehow different? I just can't see that.

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Question about oil filled gear diffs: I'm sure I've asked before, but when you do a search for "oil" or "diff" it brings up enough results that having to cancel dinner plans becomes a real threat.

How much do you fill them up? 3Racing instructions would allow for some air to be left behind, but other instructions tell you to be sure there's no air.

The reason I'm wondering is the last time I built my diff, I stuffed it full of 500K oil and it seemed to leak from every possible crevice. I'm likely going with something much heavier (2M-2.5M wt) and I don't want to gum up my driveline again.

Madulla

I just made a new one Jim. I used a syringe to put some in the bottom of one half. I then put the cross piece in. I then filled the small holes in and a bit more on top of the cross. When I put the top half on there were no leaks or oil coming out. The 500k doesn't need to be full. It is so thick it slows down the gears and give good action. The last one I filled with a knife fully and oil was everywhere. I hate when it gets on the outside and get in the drivetrain. So I like the syringe method now.

caltek1

iTrader: (38)

Jim,

I only use 300K oil in my oil gear diffs and fill a little above the cross. I used to use 500k but found it slowed the steering down and added wear to the 3Racing oil diff outdrives.

Using the weights your suggesting will give use less steering and start behaving like a spool. Not what you want.

The best oil gear diff I have found is the Top racing oil gear diff for the Sabre FWD car. These are what most are using now. They are less maintenance than the 3Racing product and only require extra spacers to fit inside the MO5, to reduce sideways movement. It also uses blades like the 3racing oil gear diff.

Top Racing oil gear diff part number is PO-SDT114

Not sure if that helps,

Regards,

Calvin.