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Originally Posted by JustMe2
(Post 7074379)
Has anyone tried this HPI Mazda Miata body?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Mazda-MX-5-Miata...item563a16a4cc Might have to go to the short chassis just to get a good looking body for my car. COME ON TAMIYA, WAKE UP!!! Other manufactures have. Btw, the HPI Miata body shell was more brittle than Tamiya's. IMHO :tire::tire: |
Originally Posted by CARD
(Post 7084483)
:nod::nod:
Btw, the HPI Miata body shell was more brittle than Tamiya's. IMHO :tire::tire: |
Originally Posted by billjacobs
(Post 7084417)
If you don't want an $8 aluminum handled screwdriver that will fit the tamiya screws perfectly, don't get one. The person asked for help in finding a perfect screwdriver for tamiya screws, and you can't get more perfect than that. Tamiya tools, just like hudy tools are expensive. If you can get a $24 driver for $8, that's even better.
Jeez. No one here peed in your corn flakes. |
Originally Posted by woodys3b
(Post 7084231)
After reading the last 100 pages of this thread, I started to build my M05. The upgrades I am using are:
2. Diff and CVDs. I'm happy with how the gear diff feels after assembling it with one extra shim and anti-wear grease and will probably not upgrade to the ball diff. However, I would like to use blades on the inside end of the cvd shafts. Are there any diff cups that fit into the M05 gear diff that have wider slots in them to accept the blades? Will this be the only reason I should upgrade to the Tamiya ball diff? Also, with the CVDs installed and the O rings in the diff cups, It seems that the O rings are too thick. They are pushing the CVD shafts out into the front steering knuckles too much. I even used the clear O rings as mentioned a few times in this thread. I'm tempted to Just remove them all together. Any suggestions? Thanks Andy Not a big fan of the M05 ball diff as the out drives appear to be too soft and wear quickly. I'm probably going back to the TA03 diff and modify the outdrives to accept blades. |
Originally Posted by billjacobs
(Post 7084417)
If you don't want an $8 aluminum handled screwdriver that will fit the tamiya screws perfectly, don't get one. The person asked for help in finding a perfect screwdriver for tamiya screws, and you can't get more perfect than that. Tamiya tools, just like hudy tools are expensive. If you can get a $24 driver for $8, that's even better.
Jeez.
Originally Posted by woodys3b
(Post 7085362)
Lighten up Francis
No one here peed in your corn flakes. Sorry, I was just amazed that Tamiya can sell a screw driver for $24, then clearance them for $8 and not feel guilty to publish they are making that type of profit, on a screw driver at that. Thanks for the info on the HPI bodies. My son and I have the HPI Civic bodies now and they do seem thinner then most. Any other options for the mid(225mm) chassis or is the short(210mm) chassis good to run? |
Steady people...steady! I was just asking a tool question!:D
Thanks for the "JIS" tip...I didn't know that. I'll dig around for something cheap...though I don't mind paying $8 for the Tamiya version if I can't find one. One more question, do you guys keep both the #1 and #2 in your box? |
MWB : suzuki swift, fiat 500/abarth.
I believe ABC Hobby also makes a Honda Civic and a new Subaru WRX. Check the rcmini website for others, or do a couple of web searches. |
My HPI civic has drywall tape and shoe goo on the front inside- works like a charm...
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Originally Posted by BadSign
(Post 7086417)
My HPI civic has drywall tape and shoe goo on the front inside- works like a charm...
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What servo are you guys running, I'm currently running a Futaba s9550 and may be looking to try something different, just poking for some ideas, thanks.
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futaba 3003.
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Originally Posted by fleetmaster
(Post 7086254)
MWB : suzuki swift, fiat 500/abarth.
I believe ABC Hobby also makes a Honda Civic and a new Subaru WRX. Check the rcmini website for others, or do a couple of web searches. I'm really diggin your avitar. Is that a real car or the HPI 510 body? The color reminds me of the Dodge Challanger Trans-Am cars back in the day. Any chance I could get a larger version of your avitar? This might be my next mini body. Imatation is the best form of flattery:D Thanks Andy |
Originally Posted by Granpa
(Post 7085483)
If you don't have access to a mill you can use a Dremel and cut off wheels to open up the slots in the outdrives to accomodate the blades. We've been doing that here for awhile now. You don't even have to use the Tamiya blades. I'm using some X-ray ones that were in the spare parts box. Not a perfect fit, but it works just fine.
Not a big fan of the M05 ball diff as the out drives appear to be too soft and wear quickly. I'm probably going back to the TA03 diff and modify the outdrives to accept blades. Good advice. I'll give it a shot. Andy |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by woodys3b
(Post 7088978)
Fleetmaster,
I'm really diggin your avitar. Is that a real car or the HPI 510 body? The color reminds me of the Dodge Challanger Trans-Am cars back in the day. Any chance I could get a larger version of your avitar? This might be my next mini body. Imatation is the best form of flattery:D Thanks Andy |
Originally Posted by trerc
(Post 7089028)
It's straight off HPI website and its an AWESOME looking body!
The HPI 911 cup racer body sure looks good as well. Same questions about that. Thanks Andy |
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