295LikesTamiya mini cooper
01-03-2009 | 11:27 PM
#8056
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,549
From: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Yet virtually every single major race down our way in 2008 has been won by a SWB....
Feel free to believe what you want, but we still say it makes NO DIFFERENCE.. Hee hee
Actually, I'll quantify that - it MAY make some difference to your perception of how the car handles (i.e. it may feel easier/harder to drive) but it does NOT make the car any quicker/slower.
Feel free to believe what you want, but we still say it makes NO DIFFERENCE.. Hee hee
Actually, I'll quantify that - it MAY make some difference to your perception of how the car handles (i.e. it may feel easier/harder to drive) but it does NOT make the car any quicker/slower.
01-04-2009 | 12:52 AM
#8057
Yet virtually every single major race down our way in 2008 has been won by a SWB....
Feel free to believe what you want, but we still say it makes NO DIFFERENCE.. Hee hee
Actually, I'll quantify that - it MAY make some difference to your perception of how the car handles (i.e. it may feel easier/harder to drive) but it does NOT make the car any quicker/slower.
Feel free to believe what you want, but we still say it makes NO DIFFERENCE.. Hee hee
Actually, I'll quantify that - it MAY make some difference to your perception of how the car handles (i.e. it may feel easier/harder to drive) but it does NOT make the car any quicker/slower.
01-04-2009 | 01:19 AM
#8058
The surface is carpet and smooth. So you put more than just the one spacer?
Here is a picture from rc-mini.net which shows the spacer I used. If after I add about 200g and my ride height is still not any lower then I will think about more spacers.
My toe is pretty neurtral.
Kenny
Here is a picture from rc-mini.net which shows the spacer I used. If after I add about 200g and my ride height is still not any lower then I will think about more spacers.
My toe is pretty neurtral.
Kenny
!!!Now like Tony....and others suggest.....your driving style and the traction you get from the carpet are going to determine some of the set-up changes you make.....
someone suggested to use CA on the sidewalls of the tires....I've never done that.....I understand the idea but why wouldn't you just find a front tire that washes out a little on it's own.....if that's the principle? (I'm sure someone would like to answer
!!)The most important part Kenny is that you have joined the rest of us in this mystical.....magical.....adventure most of us call Mini
!!! Don't worry we'll save you a room in the sanitarium down the hall from Tony
, Jim and myself
!!!!R
01-04-2009 | 04:52 AM
#8059
Yet virtually every single major race down our way in 2008 has been won by a SWB....
Feel free to believe what you want, but we still say it makes NO DIFFERENCE.. Hee hee
Actually, I'll quantify that - it MAY make some difference to your perception of how the car handles (i.e. it may feel easier/harder to drive) but it does NOT make the car any quicker/slower.
Feel free to believe what you want, but we still say it makes NO DIFFERENCE.. Hee hee
Actually, I'll quantify that - it MAY make some difference to your perception of how the car handles (i.e. it may feel easier/harder to drive) but it does NOT make the car any quicker/slower.
01-04-2009 | 06:19 AM
#8060
Tech Regular
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 361
From: Flanders, Belgium
...
someone suggested to use CA on the sidewalls of the tires....I've never done that.....I understand the idea but why wouldn't you just find a front tire that washes out a little on it's own.....if that's the principle? (I'm sure someone would like to answer!!)
...
someone suggested to use CA on the sidewalls of the tires....I've never done that.....I understand the idea but why wouldn't you just find a front tire that washes out a little on it's own.....if that's the principle? (I'm sure someone would like to answer
!!)...
01-04-2009 | 06:44 AM
#8061
You CA the walls because the sidewalls are the reason the car rolls....not the contact patch. You want all the forward momentum and steering the softer tire gives without the rolling the softer sidewall creates. And you can use a firmer insert to stiffen the sidewall, but you will still roll on high bite carpet.
On asphalt things are different.
On asphalt things are different.
01-04-2009 | 07:48 AM
#8062
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 538
I was reading this... and thought that one would still require the step screws and ball nut connectors. Wouldn't the TAM53303 TL01 adjustable arm kit with a set of 4 10mm turnbuckles would do the job for all 4 ends? What do you guys think?
Hey guys,
I noticed a while back some posting about the "ring of death" that occurs on the mini front tyres with the standard links, and if there's any way to stop it. Well, I thought I'd pass on this tip given to me a while ago.
Basically, you make some adjustable upper links for the front of the car
What you need are;
TAM53892 3x10mm turnbuckle shaft
TAM53662 TT01 turnbuckle tie-rod set
Then you need to take the 4 of the 5mm connectors from the TT01 set, and remove from the end 3mm of material. Then thread in the 10mm turnbuckles, and waa-la, you have a very short adjustable upper link. Set the overall length of the link to 24mm, and you'll still have a ~1° negative camber when the car is on the ground, although this can be altered a little if you cut off more of the connector joint. Then just mount the link up using the ball connectors supplied in the TT01 set, and your good to go. (pic 1)
Having the longer front link removes most of the negative camber present on the front, this is pretty much the big contributor to the very biased front tyre wear. I've attached a pic showing how the my new front S-Grips are wearing... with the normal setup, you'd expect most of the inside treads to be worn. However, with the longer front link, the wear is smack down the middle of the tyre
Another good thing is this aids forward traction, simply as the tyre is more upright when in use, meaning more the contact patch can be used for acceleration. A benefit for sure with a FWD. In my eyes though, the bigger benefit is the more even wear, so longer life from the tyres
I noticed a while back some posting about the "ring of death" that occurs on the mini front tyres with the standard links, and if there's any way to stop it. Well, I thought I'd pass on this tip given to me a while ago.
Basically, you make some adjustable upper links for the front of the car
What you need are;
TAM53892 3x10mm turnbuckle shaft
TAM53662 TT01 turnbuckle tie-rod set
Then you need to take the 4 of the 5mm connectors from the TT01 set, and remove from the end 3mm of material. Then thread in the 10mm turnbuckles, and waa-la, you have a very short adjustable upper link. Set the overall length of the link to 24mm, and you'll still have a ~1° negative camber when the car is on the ground, although this can be altered a little if you cut off more of the connector joint. Then just mount the link up using the ball connectors supplied in the TT01 set, and your good to go. (pic 1)
Having the longer front link removes most of the negative camber present on the front, this is pretty much the big contributor to the very biased front tyre wear. I've attached a pic showing how the my new front S-Grips are wearing... with the normal setup, you'd expect most of the inside treads to be worn. However, with the longer front link, the wear is smack down the middle of the tyre
Another good thing is this aids forward traction, simply as the tyre is more upright when in use, meaning more the contact patch can be used for acceleration. A benefit for sure with a FWD. In my eyes though, the bigger benefit is the more even wear, so longer life from the tyres
Last edited by stocker; 01-04-2009 at 08:11 AM.
01-04-2009 | 01:41 PM
#8063
stocker,
I have never tried the tip below, as it is against our mini rules. For club racing you may get away with it.
I am pretty sure that 3Racing have released a tie rod set that replaces all of the plastic moulded parts on a mini.
regards,
Calvin.
I have never tried the tip below, as it is against our mini rules. For club racing you may get away with it.
I am pretty sure that 3Racing have released a tie rod set that replaces all of the plastic moulded parts on a mini.
regards,
Calvin.
Last edited by caltek1; 01-04-2009 at 01:42 PM. Reason: xtra text
01-05-2009 | 09:28 PM
#8065
on my 3pks, i notice its i reduce the D/R, the steering will be less.(is it similar to reduce epa??)
actually i still can figure out different between D/R and epa
which to reduce to reduce traction roll.
thanks in advance cal...
btw i am using 26mm hpi x pattern front and sorex 36r rear. running on asphalt track which its also shared by gp car on foam and other mini on foam.
Last edited by edwintklee; 01-05-2009 at 09:38 PM.
01-05-2009 | 09:39 PM
#8066
The idea on steering is as follows:
On a normal set up radio the steering is linear. That is you get equal steering response across the whole range of movement of the steering wheel.
For Minis, you need to reduce the steering rate to a negative exponential. That is , the movement of the steering is reduced for small movement either side of straight ahead. The steering rate increases as you turn more. This eliminates the twitchy feel around no steering input (straight ahead)
On KO radios it is called steering curve. I dont know on Futaba
On a normal set up radio the steering is linear. That is you get equal steering response across the whole range of movement of the steering wheel.
For Minis, you need to reduce the steering rate to a negative exponential. That is , the movement of the steering is reduced for small movement either side of straight ahead. The steering rate increases as you turn more. This eliminates the twitchy feel around no steering input (straight ahead)
On KO radios it is called steering curve. I dont know on Futaba
01-05-2009 | 10:40 PM
#8067
The idea on steering is as follows:
On a normal set up radio the steering is linear. That is you get equal steering response across the whole range of movement of the steering wheel.
For Minis, you need to reduce the steering rate to a negative exponential. That is , the movement of the steering is reduced for small movement either side of straight ahead. The steering rate increases as you turn more. This eliminates the twitchy feel around no steering input (straight ahead)
On KO radios it is called steering curve. I dont know on Futaba
On a normal set up radio the steering is linear. That is you get equal steering response across the whole range of movement of the steering wheel.
For Minis, you need to reduce the steering rate to a negative exponential. That is , the movement of the steering is reduced for small movement either side of straight ahead. The steering rate increases as you turn more. This eliminates the twitchy feel around no steering input (straight ahead)
On KO radios it is called steering curve. I dont know on Futaba
01-06-2009 | 03:45 AM
#8069
3PKS SETTING
edwintklee,
I use a KO Helios Ex-10 and am not that familiar with the 3PKS controls. I run mine at between -30 and -40% on the steering curve.
I downloaded the manual for the 3PKS and you need to go into the STEXP program and reduce that using the minus button. This will change the steering response time of the servo, conversly you can press the + button and make it faster. This does not change the EPA of your servo.
This information is on page 52 of your instruction manual.
jonest,
The amount you reduce the response time of the servo is up to you and your driving technique.
Regards,
Calvin.
I use a KO Helios Ex-10 and am not that familiar with the 3PKS controls. I run mine at between -30 and -40% on the steering curve.
I downloaded the manual for the 3PKS and you need to go into the STEXP program and reduce that using the minus button. This will change the steering response time of the servo, conversly you can press the + button and make it faster. This does not change the EPA of your servo.
This information is on page 52 of your instruction manual.
jonest,
The amount you reduce the response time of the servo is up to you and your driving technique.
Regards,
Calvin.
01-06-2009 | 11:01 AM
#8070
Tony, pal, help me out here! I'm a little confused about some of the race set-ups listed on rc-mini.
I thought the usual convention was to run harder springs up front, and softer springs at the rear. I noticed in the race set-ups, it was consistently soft front and hard rear.
What's up with that? Did I not get that memo?
Jim
I thought the usual convention was to run harder springs up front, and softer springs at the rear. I noticed in the race set-ups, it was consistently soft front and hard rear.
What's up with that? Did I not get that memo?
Jim