FWD vs RWD Minis
 

I am thinking about getting a Mini to race at the 'Coliseum.' Seeing how it is getting really big locally and looks like soooo much fun. And the idea of it not being able to get too expensive is a real cool idea. I love spec racing. But everyone at my track runs M-03's, not a single one runs an M-04. I know they are a little harder to control, but they are killer on the striaghts.

I eventually would like to buy both, but that is going to have to wait a little while. So if I could get a count of head on who drives and prefers what, and what you guys think the advantages and disadvantages are to each that would be really good.

M03's outnumber M04's in racing by about 99:1.

Which explains why no-one at your track runs them. There's a reason why.. They're a lot of work to race successfully.

Have to agree with tony.

In our club there are 4-5 guys that run MO4's. We use RP 36r's for the most part and the cars compete well with the M03's. Top 5 for this past season in Mini went 1st M04M, 2nd M03M, 3rd M04M, 4th M03M and 5th M03M.

I run an M04M and yes it does have a slight advantage on the top end. For me the M04M feels easier to drive smooth. But it can be touchy especially in the steering if the saver does'nt hold. I have had the car start a race tracking straight, then hit a rail and the car will pull to one side, then hit a rail again and it's back tracking straight!hehe

I started out in Mini last year with an M03M and really enjoyed it and if not for getting a deal on my M04M ($40) I probably would still be running it. To me the M03M felt like I had to drive it on the edge or push it hard to get the most out of it.

I think both cars run good and may work better in different situations. But if everyone else is running M03's maybe find out if anyone has run an M04 and see what they think about it.

For our club because we don't have to run Tamiya tires this really seemed to level the playing field between the M03 and M04 and maybe a slight edge to the M04 ;)

If your going to buy both cars anyways then you can't go wrong either way.

okay so I wore a bad groove into my MO3M's front right tyre on the inside after a 5 minute practise and 2 5 minute heats,

I think the tyres went off after about 5 laps,

using type a's I think

any ideas?

is it my setup or maybe need to use harder tyres or not drive so hard?

cheers

Probably more insert- perhaps a double stuffer or a full size 26mm molded insert (HPI or- if you can find them- the old Tamiya). The groove is caused by the tire distorting and running sliding over onto the edge of the sidewall bead---called a 'death groove'--- and it will actually cut the tire off at the sidewall eventually.

Problem with these new formulation Type A's is that they don't have as much "stick" as they used to...

How many guys are running their Mini with Lipo Power and the 1300 gram weight Limit. How much did your setup change?

If will be interesting to see how many Lipo'd powered mini's will be at next weeks TCS race at Trackside
Dave

Hey guys.

Had great fun my mini today. Finally sorted out it's shocks (borrowed my spare set of TRF's from my tourer), and was really good.

As the traction came up at the end of the day, started to loose a little steering. And as I was running a very sharp toothed 18 pinion, managed to strip the internal gears... opps.

But had fun, as the car was great fun to drive, and it didn't disgrace itself against the 4wd tourers I had a little fun with on track :p Was using my 416 in 10.5, so ran the mini in 27t... very amsuing harrying some big arse with my mini terrier... ;)

Oh, and I'm loving my new Northcraft Skyline shell... I don't car that it's very scale, I just think it looks really :cool:, and a lot of fun!
And ain't that the whole point right?

Regards
Ed

P.s. Apologies for the some of the crappy pics... camera phone...

anybody know where i can get aluminium c hubs for my mo3r?

Thanks man :)

The question is why would you want to?

I haven't broken one in 10+ years of Mini racing.

GPM do make them click here but I wouldn't be in any great rush to get them if I was you.

well i broke both of mine yesterday... but we were also hitting some jumps(dont ask why), so that may have have been the issue they as to why they both broke also.

If you're going over jumps, then you need to change your suspension not the c hubs..

More to a Rally Mini set-up then you should be fine.

Hey dragracer72Nova- I don't run at a track but I can tell you that my Mini is 4000 LiPo powered. The only change I made to the stock setup was lower the front end and stick some foams on it. On the asphalt, it handles ok but it is mostly set up for 1/4 mile times: 0-45= 4.02 sec

Hey everybody...

I was thinking about trying out other sealed endbell motors besides Tamiya's Black Can Sport-Tuned.... just to see what happens.

Has anybody on here tried any of the motors posted below???:confused:

If so... how was performance compared to Tamiya's Black Can???:confused:

HPI Saturn 20 turn @ $19.99:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDWY0&P=0

Duratrax Photon Speed 2 20 turn, cheapest @ $11.99:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSWW1&P=0

Traxxas Stinger 20 turn @ $17.49:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJE43&P=0

I was thinking about ordering all three and doing a comparison test.:lol:

Tony...We ran our Mini class for the first time in Brisbane...12 minis ..not bad for 1st meeting(probably 8 to 10 more next meeting)
We are running A slicks..I have 2 inserts in the front..blue fr red rear springs kit oil...added 90gms with 3300lypo...I had trouble with traction rolling and also the steering seemed vague...are the kit servo savers any good...thinking of a kimbrough medium.
any setup tips appreciated