Does anyone here have the 3Racing heatsink for their car?

The reason I ask is that it comes with a blue aluminum part that looks like a motor plate, but it's a little oddly designed.

Anyone know what that blue plate is, what it does, where it fits, etc?

I beleive it fits to the place where you have the little window to see the pinion mesh, where the different motor mount/pinion holes are

is this it?

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/images...-21_si_002.jpg

That heatsink actually looks like it'll work better than the tamiya one.

I have one of these fitted. It actually works better than the Tamiya one, as it is mounted by two seperate screws with an aluminium conduit to the external heatsink. Plus you also use the motor screws as well.

monkeyracing,

The blue plate fits internally in the motor cavity and takes the place of the cardboard heat gasket. The blue plate screws to the external heatsink. You use the holes you are not using for motor fitment. ie if you use the 20 tooth pinion then use the 16 or 18 holes for the heatsink screws. Hope that helps.

Though by the Mini rules not legal to use. So I will have to remove before Nationals.:cry:

Later

Calvin.

Hey guys im after some tuning advice again. Coming flat out through the middle esses going from hard left to hard right, im finding that the car lifts off the rear slightly and then gets a bit tail happy when it comes back down. My car is at 1400grams now, would adding 50 or 100 grams in the back bumper help this much? or should i be looking at lengthening my shockers to get more droop? or stiffening up the front suspension to create less transfer? I'm running trf m chassis shocks with 35wt front blue springs and 45 wt rear with yellow springs. With 32 spice up front and 36 powers on the rear. I'm about a second and a half of the pace but feel this issue is costing me the most.

have you got spacers under the shock pistons?

It's a weird tyre combo for a start...

General consensus is the SOFTER tyres go on the rear. So what you're experiencing could well be the rear letting go.

If you want to stop rolling i found that a heavy front bumper does the trick best mine is 80 grams :blush:


and if you are still strugling turn your radio down

Ive just pulled apart the shocks and the front shocks have spacers but the rears do not. There are also some spongy type things under the rubber bladder that sits on top of the shock. When pulling the rear end apart it seems like the rear left arm was binding and the suspension arm wouldnt fall naturally. Possibly part of my problem.

Its what was suggested by one of the faster guys and I guess he was leading me down the wrong path...

Thought the orange ones do not quite match my white and blue mini cooper, so I got the white ones! On initial run on a public road, the rear seems a little loose, steering became very response and sensitive! turned down my radio ARC and D/R and put another thin spacer on the rear shocks (using hard springs in frt and soft at rear)and the car seems to be handling very well now! Can't wait to try it out on the track soon!

p.s. just curious does anyone know which 1:1 tyre the X-tyres are modeled after?

Yokohama Advan 032R.

Thanks for the info, Cal. I did some searching last night, and on about the 1 millionth page, I found a description of this thing. Not as concise and detailed as yours, but I sort of got the idea.

I assume that you're running TCS rules?

Thanks also to Ashley for the diagram. I wondered how it was this thing was assembled. Looks a little complicated, doesn't it?

Jim

n/p mate :)

I just picked up a Tamiya Mini Cooper from a friend at work, kit #58211. It is new in the box. The box was opened and didnt have the instructions but I just downloaded it and I am printing it out now.

What are some nice upgrades for this car?