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-   -   Tamiya mini cooper (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/20068-tamiya-mini-cooper.html)

Scottrik 02-15-2007 09:49 PM


Originally Posted by tony gray
I look at it and see hints of the early BMW 2002's as well...

Agreed. A VERY pronounced "accent line"/brow clear around the car. The headlights/headlight trim and the roofline, etc are almost like a cartoon charicature of a Corvair though.

Not sure how much you know about NSU's (or anyone else), but they marketed a Wankel (rotary) engine before Mazda did. In fact I believe I'd seen somewhere that Dr. Felix Wankel worked for NSU and that Mazda licensed the rotary design from them. NSU was folded into Audi (AutoUnion) in the '70's.

Any idea who could tell me what chassis it should fit, or price?

Scottrik

tony gray 02-15-2007 10:16 PM

And their last car was the RO80..... Sadly not much of a success which is why they fell over and died.

I reckon that shell would fit pretty much any M01/02/04 or any of the 4WD Minis. Doubt it'd go on an M03 though, I think the servo mount at the front would cause problems.

Rcmart have some Active bodies, but not the NSU.

aoizip 02-16-2007 07:32 AM

Hi guys.

I finished building my m03m.. and i need some help.

There is a lot of slop between camber link on both front and rear. The lower arm also has some too. they pretty much just move forward and backward on the hinge pin or the flat round screw.

Do you guys just shim it out??? or just leave the way it is??

Thanks,

~Ming

Bodywerx 02-16-2007 07:35 AM

I had the same in the rear arms.

Make sure all the screws are tight, if they are and there is still slop. Shim them....

xrayroooahhhh 02-16-2007 11:10 AM

Shims
 

Originally Posted by Bodywerx
I had the same in the rear arms.

Make sure all the screws are tight, if they are and there is still slop. Shim them....


Is there a kit with the appropriate shims....or could you tell me who or what I should be looking for at the LHS!! :) :) Roy

tony gray 02-16-2007 11:34 AM


Originally Posted by aoizip
Hi guys.
There is a lot of slop between camber link on both front and rear. The lower arm also has some too. they pretty much just move forward and backward on the hinge pin or the flat round screw.

Do you guys just shim it out??? or just leave the way it is??

~Ming

After building about 50 M03's and experimenting all along... We've come to the conclusion that shimming them is a waste of time. And that applies to all the areas on an M03 that wobble about.
Just leave it they work fine as it is.

Bodywerx 02-16-2007 12:14 PM


Originally Posted by tony gray
After building about 50 M03's and experimenting all along... We've come to the conclusion that shimming them is a waste of time. And that applies to all the areas on an M03 that wobble about.
Just leave it they work fine as it is.


Well, there you go, just leave them alone. :lol:

tony gray 02-16-2007 12:33 PM

I remember a Corally Pro 10 car that I had a number of years back which had similar issues.
It said in the manual to NOT shim anything as it was designed that way! Sneaky Dutchmen.....

akuhon 02-16-2007 06:18 PM


Originally Posted by aoizip

There is a lot of slop between camber link on both front and rear. The lower arm also has some too. they pretty much just move forward and backward on the hinge pin or the flat round screw.

Do you guys just shim it out??? or just leave the way it is??

Here's my opinion :

After playing many times on many kind of tracks, I've come to the conclusion :
1. Smooth track (carpet and asphalt) : shim them all
2. moderate surface (asphalt, dusty parking lot) leave small space about 0.1mm
3. rough track (rally, gravel, con-blocks, short/golf grass) : no shim at all

When you shim them, make sure the arms are not dragging. They should be smooth movement .... Try to raise up and unhold it... It should drop easily... (don;t attach the damper yet while you try this)..

In number 1 and 2 above, for lower arm, I never use middle screw and always replace the stock suspension shaft with 53301 TL01 SS suspension shaft set
FOr number 3, lower arm use the middle screw and always replace the stock suspension shaft with 53301 TL01 SS suspension shaft set

If you have chance, replace all the screw with titanium ones....

tony gray 02-16-2007 06:40 PM

To me doing all that pretty much defeats the whole reason for running Minis in the first place!

We've been through all that sort of stuff over the 10 years we've been running Minis and came to the conclusion that

A - Too much work
B - Much as we'd like to think otherwise, we really couldnt tell the difference!

However, if it works for Akuhon then all power to him. But its all too much work for me! :)

TENCHO 02-16-2007 10:37 PM

Active Hobby recently posted a new pic of their soon to be released "Classic Beeltle" Body on their website.

see it here...

http://www.active-hobby.com/2006/new20061129.html

looks like a knock off of the tamiya body...can anyone confim what brand of chrome wheels are mounted on this thing and if they are mini sized? i can't tell from the pic.

tony gray 02-16-2007 10:45 PM

Nahh.. it isnt a knock off. Tamiya got it dead right, The Active one has way too long a front, check out that side profile, looks really weird....
The front screen needs to come forward to make the shell look correct.

TENCHO 02-17-2007 01:38 AM

that VW does look funny..not really true to scale. i guess what i meant to say by knock off was that they're producing a body that tamiya just rereleased.
i wonder if they made it that way to fit the M-03, but even then, it still wouldn't be true to scale. they should have made a different body, like a Fiat Punto Sport, Peugot 206, or Renault Clio!

TENCHO 02-17-2007 10:17 PM

ABC made a Ferrari Body for M-02 :weird:

for sale on e-bay now....

http://cgi.ebay.com/Tamiya-M-02-ABC-...QQcmdZViewItem

t4m1y4niac 02-18-2007 04:59 AM


Originally Posted by TENCHO
ABC made a Ferrari Body for M-02 :weird:

for sale on e-bay now....

http://cgi.ebay.com/Tamiya-M-02-ABC-...QQcmdZViewItem

what type ferrari is it??? just looks like Testarossa...but i'm not sure.. :)


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