Granted the M05 is a bargain considering you get the body and ESC/motor combo and tires, but If you can go with the 07, I would. Aside from the front steering knuckles, the M07 is real good.

The biggest thing that would steer me away from the 05 for the kiddos is that I found when they updated front chassis section to fit a square battery pack, they seemed to be weak at the front camber link location. I broke a few chassis right there with light hits. Putting JB weld inside the chassis fixed that, but still, if there will be any bashing it could be a problem. Also, dirt seems to get inside the chassis, but you can use silly putty to seal those holes.

Like mentioned TQ is a great resource for parts. Ebay as well.

Thank you for the info!

3 racing M06-06 Gear differential
 

Hello,
I stripped some gears inside 3 racing M06-06 Gear diff 39T and I'm navigating inside 3 racing spare parts to find correct references.
I found that gears set should be SAK-65F/V2, but SAK-XS110A seems identical with same applications list.
For paper gasket, yellow thickness1 mm, seems to be SAK-XS110E.
Appreciate if someone already performed the diff renew can share experience and references.
The stripped reason is not clear, it worked well for more than one month (on M-05 / 17.5t brushless / 100k oil) and yesterday, ultra hot day, ugly noise started...The 4 tiny 10t gears are stripped.
Thanks in advance.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...482841b602.jpg

M-07 is better for racing if you are looking to be fighting for the win. Also m-07 is chassis only, no bodies.

M-05 is just fine for your kids. When they wear out the m-05, maybe then replace with M-07.

I was able to win our NW regional last year with my trusty M06, which sadly was probably the last year either a 05 or 06 would be competitive now that open gearing is allowed. I will say, it was a total blast flogging an inferior car around and beating the 07's, especially with a RWD 06, which was one of the most undesirable M-chassis cars ever. It was work though.... man.... haha.

i was hoping to do the same last year with my M06.. Sadly my campaign was unsuccessful due to the 11th hour change to the Ride 33. To obey the rules I didn’t bring my m chassis tyres and later would learn that the top drivers were running them and not the Ride 33.

She now sits on the shelf and her replacement is an M08! :)

Mine as well. Finally getting around to building my '08. Love the challenge of a RWD mini.

They do really well on carpet.. especially the M08! Only thing I don’t like about it is the front upright design. Tamiya decided to use an insert for caster angle.. which makes it really brittle.

Im switching mine to the M07.. caster plate and upright for this weekends TCS.

Evening all,

I recently got the hollow shafts for my m05, i use bearings in it and was wondering if i still had to use ceramic grease on them as per tamiya instructions on original kit?

In my opinion leave them dry. Usually the grease will invite dirt or crap to stick to the gears, not to mention the increased resistance caused. I have never once greased the gears and always had a good result.

I'll usually use a wax-based lube for efficiency, but other than that, I don't use a "grease".

Thanks for your tips guys, also what are the go to shorty lipos to use in the m05 v2?

I mean, any shorty pack will do you good in the V2. If you want to get trick you can try the LCG Shorty packs but I would start with a standard 4000 pack or what not. If you want to try something you can put a piece of foam or something on top of the battery pack so in can sit on the bottom of the chassis instead of hanging in the air for more of a lcg effect.

where do you guys measure the front ride height on a m05 v2 with the one piece front arms? they have a bit of plastic which ends up almost 2mm off the ground?

I use a drill bit and see if the car can roll over it.