Tamiya mini cooper
speaking of bodies and longevity ..
...I have been able to get a full season out of each body (March - October).
I usually paint up a new set for all the cars I race prior to our first race, ...then replace the following year.
For me, I paint my car to both look nice, but also so I can see it easily and so it stands out from the others. I always race in a green theme, -this year using a combo of fluorescent green + fluorescent yellow w/ black trim. Its bright, but it works.
...I have been able to get a full season out of each body (March - October).
I usually paint up a new set for all the cars I race prior to our first race, ...then replace the following year.
For me, I paint my car to both look nice, but also so I can see it easily and so it stands out from the others. I always race in a green theme, -this year using a combo of fluorescent green + fluorescent yellow w/ black trim. Its bright, but it works.
I also race with a signature paint job. No point in spending 30 hours to paint a masterpiece, only to have it thrashed during heats. But at the same token, running a solid white body is boring and unoriginal.
The signature paint/colors also help other drivers recognize you on the track so that a degree of passive/active communication is always present. There is nothing worse than having to battle a guy who doesn't know he is being lapped and is costing other drivers the race.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 341
From: Edmonton
Painting is just another part of the hobby for some. What I think is key, is that you're key is easy to see on the track, and the race director can call out your colours and the other drivers can know which car they are talking about. This is critical if you are the leader, or the lapper. There is nothing worse than, "white car on the straight, the leaders are on you" when there are 3 white cars on the track, and they aren't the leaders.
Also your car should be recognizable so others can race accordingly based on your previous races with them. Unless you drive like a total jerk and don't what people to be able to hunt you down in the pits. I think these guys tend to have white cars

I think its also helpful you paint your classes with the same theme. Then people can judge across multiple classes as well.
Then put in all the time you like and take pride and enjoy the modelling process if thats your gig. If you don't like painting or are afraid of bashing it up, just do a red hood and roof and white body. It goes quick :P
My 2 cents.
Also your car should be recognizable so others can race accordingly based on your previous races with them. Unless you drive like a total jerk and don't what people to be able to hunt you down in the pits. I think these guys tend to have white cars


I think its also helpful you paint your classes with the same theme. Then people can judge across multiple classes as well.
Then put in all the time you like and take pride and enjoy the modelling process if thats your gig. If you don't like painting or are afraid of bashing it up, just do a red hood and roof and white body. It goes quick :P
My 2 cents.
Ordered my custom designed 3D printed droop things for the Xevo today. Really hope I got the measurements right. Whoever has a set of originals for the Chariot (I'm looking at you, Tony,) fill me in! Also, ordered the rear motor conversion bit for the m04. Cooooool.
Here's a link to the Xevo part I've designed. Kinda thinking the design could easily be adapted to allow droop adjustment on M03s.
Here's a link to the Xevo part I've designed. Kinda thinking the design could easily be adapted to allow droop adjustment on M03s.
Last edited by monkeyracing; 04-29-2016 at 02:32 PM.
Tech Regular
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 281
From: ontario canada
I got to busy at work today and couldn't get the reamer tool from the hobby shop today at lunch. Was gonna pick some paints too but work had to be finished first. Maybe tommorow I can convince the wife that it's an important stop we have to make lol. I think I'm going to paint the RS1 body a blue and white. Not a clue yet tho...
Monkey what exactly are you talking about with the 3d printed things
Monkey what exactly are you talking about with the 3d printed things
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,549
From: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Ordered my custom designed 3D printed droop things for the Xevo today. Really hope I got the measurements right. Whoever has a set of originals for the Chariot (I'm looking at you, Tony,) fill me in! Also, ordered the rear motor conversion bit for the m04. Cooooool.
Here's a link to the Xevo part I've designed. Kinda thinking the design could easily be adapted to allow droop adjustment on M03s.
Here's a link to the Xevo part I've designed. Kinda thinking the design could easily be adapted to allow droop adjustment on M03s.
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,549
From: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
OK Monkey Bum Racing, what bits are you talking about?
There's nothing like that on the Xevo (Chariot or Triumph).
Are you (as I suspect) talking about the Corsair Racing Droop adjusters?.....
There's nothing like that on the Xevo (Chariot or Triumph).
Are you (as I suspect) talking about the Corsair Racing Droop adjusters?.....
Tech Regular
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 281
From: ontario canada
So I just ran the car outside with a new shimuzu slick set up. 452 soft in the front and super soft in the rear....not sure of the number but with the asphalt I have its absolutely perfect the amount of grip these have in this surface. Incredible!
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,549
From: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Hmm you're right, I went and looked at the site back-up myself, and we did.
Well, Tim did.. I don't remember it at all. And it's certainly not on my cars.
I shall get Tim to check Sir!.
Well, Tim did.. I don't remember it at all. And it's certainly not on my cars.
I shall get Tim to check Sir!.
Tech Rookie
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 10
Hey guys new to the forums here. I kept trying to research parts information and kept getting drawn to this thread so I decided to join in on the fun.
I picked up a m05 VII pro kit the other day and I had a few questions I was hoping you guys could help answer.
Is there anything that I really need to upgrade out of the box that doesn't come with the pro kit?
I also need a good recommendation for a servo / motor / esc that's popular to run in these if possible.
Also what size lipos are you guys running that is giving you a decent run time. I had read that the V II chassis addressed the battery issue but was not sure what size would be Ideal to run on this chassis. Also is everyone sticking to 2 cell?
Ive built a few onroad cars in the past but this is my first M Class so its kinda new to me.
I picked up a m05 VII pro kit the other day and I had a few questions I was hoping you guys could help answer.
Is there anything that I really need to upgrade out of the box that doesn't come with the pro kit?
I also need a good recommendation for a servo / motor / esc that's popular to run in these if possible.
Also what size lipos are you guys running that is giving you a decent run time. I had read that the V II chassis addressed the battery issue but was not sure what size would be Ideal to run on this chassis. Also is everyone sticking to 2 cell?
Ive built a few onroad cars in the past but this is my first M Class so its kinda new to me.
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,549
From: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
[QUOTE=monkeyracing;14512135]Thanks! Y' know what's weirder? I was looking for more photos (found em) and stumbled across a rear droop setup I've never seen before.
That one's new to me. Tim may have seen it. Or perhaps Cal Holmes....
That one's new to me. Tim may have seen it. Or perhaps Cal Holmes....
Using a temporary shell on my GT car and being the only black one (which is very difficult to see on the carpet) did help out with the announcements.



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