You need to be alittle more specific, are both your wheels pointed left or
the right wheel pointed left and the left wheel pointed right???
More info PLEASE!

both wheels are pointing left. it's more like the steering has a bias to the left. I connected the esc,servo and batt and I realised I had to turn the steering slightly right to make the steering centered.

Haven't got a chance to solder the wires to the motor so can't tell if the car actually has a left bias. but the wheels certainly have a steering bias or something

There's an error in the manual. It shows the servo saver at 90* to the servo. In reality, the connector rod should be at 90* to the servo saver, the the saver at an angle to the servo.

So, set the servo rod up per instructions, connect it to the servo saver, make sure your servo is cantered, then drop the servo saver into place on the servo. Should look a bit like my crappy illustration.

For the speed run mini, my best is 127kmh (79mph). That's using a 5.5turn on 4S lipo.
It's a Xevo chassis conversion for the M03/05:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0uuj...ature=youtu.be

C'mon Jim, not the 90 degree servo saver again, I've only just recovered from last years discussion ;-)

Yeah, but I'm right this time...for once. :P

I've got to get back to working on my Xevo. Those front droop limiters seem like they're going to be essential. There's so much slop in that thing! As ever, if anyone ever stumbles across a set, I need detailed measurements, or the actual droop limiters.

what if I somehow aligned the front wheels to the back (ruler, plastic blocks, etc), turned on the servo and leaving it to neutral, then adjusted the steering turn buckles to fit?


would it still work?

You'd get horribly weird ackermann angles while turning.

how is the works edition m-chassis dampers? i found them by chance at the LHS, priced slightly more expensive than the trf dampers and the trf big bore dampers.

also, what's the difference between the trf dampers and trf big bore dampers (both m-chassis)?

That essentially how you do it and you'll find when done that the servo saver is at a slight angle, as illustrated. This should give you even throw left and right.

Big bores are only a tiny bit larger, but have 10% more fluid volume. Also, they're really nice. I've owned them all and these are the best of the bunch.

Ahhh crap here we go again, where did I put those college books?

- Build the servo to steering connector rod and the the front end components as per instructions.
- Attach the steering rod to the servo saver.
- Power up the car, making sure the servo is centered.
- Make sure your wheels all look like they're pointed the right way
- Attach the servo saver to the servo. It'll probably be pointed slightly forward and the saver to steering rod angle will be close to 90 degrees.
- If it's not, pull the servo saver off the servo, adjust the length of the steering rod a little and put it back on the servo.
- Rinse and repeat until the servo saver to steering rod are at about 90 degrees to one another.

This should give you fairly equal steering. Adjustments from this point will be minor.

When they asked if they can just adjust the turnbuckles (plural) I read that as adjusting the short outer left and right links. You'd get weird ackermann if you try to adjust these to compensate for a crooked steering rack. They'd need to keep the rack aligned correctly, with the servo horn and long main link at 90 degrees to each other (with the long link adjusted to the correct length) as per Jims suggestion.

Any benefit to running the YR long arm kit?
I recieved a set of new 60D s grips and 60D hard inserts. The inserts really fill up the tires....is this the hot setup?
Also, I noticed that there are type A and type B wheels (with reinforcing ribs). Is one type prefered over the other?

It is definatly a plus when their rack is aligned correctly!:D

mini wtb
 

if any one have a tamiya m05 for sale let me know thanks