Is this a camber gain situation depending on which rear toe in option you use?

Ivan

I've been running the rear from the 05 Gold, which came with 1.5* uprights and the built in 1* in the plate. I've not noticed anything particularly bad about it, but would prefer 0* at the plate.

Thanks for the info, Ivan! :D

Finally found a 380 sized brushless that fits my M-Four. :D
It is a huge bump in power over the SportsTuned 380, but still driveable.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...rushless-1.jpg

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...-brushless.jpg

I had to yank the Hobbywing ESC off my V2 as the TBLE02s does not run sensorless...
Now I am thinking about just putting back my silver can in my V2 and run the TBLE02S..

The Shimizu hard compound 55mm did great on my slammed M05. :D Very happy about that. Now I am wondering how the 60mm sized hard Shimizu's are for my 60D cars.. Will see how it wears first. The compound is about as hard as the kit 60D radials which is perfect for my track surface.

That 4th qualifier in TC stock was on pace to be a top 5 run - until my lack of maintenance bit me in the a$$. Sure my Tamiya 417 TC platforms are old, but they are still a great chassis. The main reason I still run them is that I have like another 5 years worth of spares... Well that and the cars are still infinitely more capable than I am.

I definitely agree with you that there is no reason to spend countless money on having the latest and greatest chassis out there if you are still running wide on corner apexes or tapping boards. The best improvement you can make is always the driver.

The TT-01's were actually really fun - I never would have thought we could put those into the A main against a bunch of state-of-the art cars. Open diffs, plastic dogbones and all... I had to do the timing mod on my Trackstar motor to get enough speed on the straights, so that motor is technically "illegal" as I modified it. I will have to double my investment and pick up one of those Team Powers motors you run. for the next race.

I make too many mistakes to run a bone-stock mini at big races, but if you keep pressuring me, you might be able to convince me for the last race of the season :D

Seems like a deal! but im not running a mini. I did mention it previously. I just ask here because you guys also run round packs. ( i run a TL-01) and yes as mentioned i also had some orcas and they have puffed a bit. I really do need all the umpf i can get. The car gets quite heavy u see. When i finally retire it i will probably get a M-chassi or another Tamiya.

Anyway. Thanks. Im getting one of those.

I'm not pressuring you.....I'm shaming you....;)

Ivan

Quiet in here... any plans for the weekend? :D

I'm going to put my V2 back together. Got the entire next week off! Will play with my MFour and Sabre4WD Mini.

Swapping the Reedy Mach 2 out for a D41S. Maybe now I'll be able to keep up in the straights.

I just got a TEKIN GEN3, looks like we will both be testing on Sunday.

Race tonight! Day of sadness and repairs. Race Sunday!

That covers about 10 minutes. What are you doing after that?

Have a couple of Black Can motors to break in for next weekend.

Going to be testing some non Tamiya tires. Sweeps and Pits.

Both awesome tires. I've been running both and they're stickier, more consistent than Tamiya and last a LOT longer.

From my understanding, it is purely a weight transfer setting. If I remember correctly, comparing X* of toe in the hub to X* of toe in the hingepin instead, the in-board toe (in the hingepin) will transfer more weight to the front, increasing off-power steering. But take that with a grain of salt because that's tried and true 1/10 touring car tuning right there. I'm asking here because we've all seen a few times where M-chassis cars ignore the TC tuning rules and write their own wacky ROE.