Thanks guys! Scott I appreciate you showing me your mini and your advice; Ivan; I appreciate your insight, advice and complements. Your right about driving lines and corner speed control; something to work towards.

I always knew that I was losing time in the chicane somewhere because of poor breaking habits, ie drag break etc. Better lines and better throttle. control; its all about timing and using 1/2 throttle to slow you down on tighter turns.

First time ruining mini at the Regina WCICS event. I finished about where I had expected in the main, although not as close to Ivan as I had hoped. Too many driving errors on my part, and a car that simply would not rotate.
Hopefully I can make some changes to the car (new tires, stiffer rear bar rebuilt the diff with lighter fluid, install djc's), as well as work on my driving, to be a bit more of a challenge to Ivan (if I ever decide to run mini again).

Anyone run Blitz Bodies?
Was wondering how they hold up in combat conditions!

Very well. I run the Jazz in the 1.0 thickness. I used to burn through many bodies each season. Now, unless something really tragic happens, I can run the same one for the full six months, even with all my crashing.

If Blitz is using the same lexan material for TC as they do for their mini bodies, then it would hold up great. My Blitz bodies easily outlast my Protoform bodies by 3x.

Compared to Tamiya lexan, it should still be more durable.

Great guys thanks
Think I'm investing in two mini bodies now

I had a blitz gti body 1.0thickness that I ran for a full season (and my driving was terrible since it was my rookie season,) shoe goo helped extend it as well. Now I've got an Audi RS1 1.0 thickness that I started using in october. I shoegoo'd the bumper and wheel wells and havent had to do any repairs. It even still looks good. I'm also finding the rs1 handles better the the golf and is has a nifty self rightly body shape :) Blitz for mini are awesome value and run really well.

I'm guessing that there were quite a few people looking here. All the bodies I was looking at are now sold out at TQ!
Go figure!

Newbie advice
 

Whats a the better shock for te mo5 ver 2 pro . The big bore set ? Or the trf set ?
Also what are the parts to change from m05 v 1 to mo5 v2 pro ?

The big bores are nice, cushy shocks and can be found cheaper than the TRFs on Banzai Hobby Cheap shipping too. Way better than the HK shops. TQ RC Racing is also a good source, with good prices and cheap shipping.

Tamiya 54606 lower arm set (with droop adjusters!)
Tamiya 54605 v2 chassis parts
Tamiya 54613 suspension shaft set (the inner rear pins are longer on V2)
Tamiya 54609 aluminum motor mount (the washers that come with this are vital!)

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you can get away without the motor plate. You can also use the regular M chassis lower arms, if you build your shocks to the usual mini length. If you go with regular M chassis lower arms, you can use the regular suspension shafts, too.

Great day of racing, btw. Thanks to everyone for coming out to play!

If anyone can think of a solution for the never ending body tuck issues with my PFM10 body, I'd love to hear them. I hacked a lot of material off the back of that shell today and it still folded and bit into the rear tires.

Protoform have some anti tuck body stiffeners for 190mm TC shells. You might be able to DIY something equivalent.

Bigger question is why did I post that here and not on my club's thread? I blame the drugs.

My my local club had back to back race dates, with identical track. Great opportunity to run my m06 and then compare with my m05.

My M06 put out laps that were a couple tenths faster. Now to put it back on the shelf and get my M05 ready for the next WCICS race.

:)

Thank u , monkey racing ! Im ordering it all now