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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
(Post 14368824)
Running a spec 2200kv motor. One of the HW 380 in a 540 size can't things. They're torquey little buggers. When combined with the weight transfer of rwd and the traction of carpet, those pot metal differential bits don't last
long. The 04 uses the same, smaller bearing size as the 03. There are cheats to fit a newer diff, but I don't have a machine shop at my disposal to make it happen. Any chance you can use the spider gears from any of the other ta, tb, trf doffs? |
Hadn't considered that. I know the internals are shared across dozens of platforms, but maybe they made a better version for a better car?
If anyone knows ways to make the stock diff stronger, I'd be happy to hear them. The problem has been the gears wedging and welding together under severe loads. I've tried a few methods of smoothing them out, including minty fresh, breaking them in with toothpaste trick. My latest was polishing all the parts with a Dremel and removing potential interference fit "design flaws". Have to see how it goes. |
Ball diff on M05
Quick question, I am using the tamiya ball diff with the lightened swing shaft. Is it normal to only have one side of the swing shaft with the shaft protector (plastic blade) and the other side without one? I cannot install the blade on the other side due to the clearance issues with the diff nut. I noticed this has caused the diff cup to develop a "pit" as well as increased "slop". There was already slop to begin with without the blade, but now I have to replace the diff cup but was curious if this is the norm or I built something wrong.
I did my best to search out an answer and read about posts about diffs, just did not notice anyone mention the slop or lack of being able to use both of the blades. So apologies if I missed this and am asking a redundant question. Thanks |
Originally Posted by teknorookie
(Post 14370859)
Quick question, I am using the tamiya ball diff with the lightened swing shaft. Is it normal to only have one side of the swing shaft with the shaft protector (plastic blade) and the other side without one? I cannot install the blade on the other side due to the clearance issues with the diff nut. I noticed this has caused the diff cup to develop a "pit" as well as increased "slop". There was already slop to begin with without the blade, but now I have to replace the diff cup but was curious if this is the norm or I built something wrong.
I did my best to search out an answer and read about posts about diffs, just did not notice anyone mention the slop or lack of being able to use both of the blades. So apologies if I missed this and am asking a redundant question. Thanks The "cup" wont fit inside the Diff? Sounds like maybe you put the Screw and nut in backwards if that's where you are having issues |
Originally Posted by KA2AEV
(Post 14370894)
What sort of clearance issues are you talking about?
The "cup" wont fit inside the Diff? Sounds like maybe you put the Screw and nut in backwards if that's where you are having issues The clearance issue is when I use the blade on the shaft, I am unable to properly seat the upright. If I remove the blade, the upright mounts fine, except I have slop inside the cup with the shaft and dogbone. I will recheck the install of the diff nut, but I think I got it right. Maybe tear it down and rebuil just to make sure I covered it right. Thanks! |
Originally Posted by teknorookie
(Post 14370901)
The clearance issue is when I use the blade on the shaft, I am unable to properly seat the upright. If I remove the blade, the upright mounts fine, except I have slop inside the cup with the shaft and dogbone. I will recheck the install of the diff nut, but I think I got it right. Maybe tear it down and rebuil just to make sure I covered it right.
Thanks! |
Originally Posted by KA2AEV
(Post 14370894)
What sort of clearance issues are you talking about?
The "cup" wont fit inside the Diff? Sounds like maybe you put the Screw and nut in backwards if that's where you are having issues I rechecked everything. Install is by the book. Same issue. Below is a link that shows the clearance problem I have when I use the plastic blade with the shaft. Also, you can see the "pit" mark made when running it without the plastic blade. Appreciate the input. http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...aft-issue.html |
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/e...ons/image.jpeg
Note the differences in the diff halves...build it using the diff halves swapped and it will do exactly what you're showing. |
Originally Posted by Core Creations
(Post 14370971)
Is this the M05 ball diff? If so I'd bet you have the diff halves swapped in the wrong side. If you look, the spring and retaining nut will slide in deeper on one diff out drive more than the other. If you build it in reverse you will not get clearance on one side...the swing shaft will make contact with the diff bolt/nut.
Thank you for the help, that did it. Can't believe I overlooked that. I really feel like a dumbass right about now. |
Originally Posted by teknorookie
(Post 14370989)
Thank you for the help, that did it. Can't believe I overlooked that. I really feel like a dumbass right about now.
|
Originally Posted by teknorookie
(Post 14370989)
Thank you for the help, that did it. Can't believe I overlooked that. I really feel like a dumbass right about now.
|
Hey since we're on diffs
Does anyone know if the part Y2 in the above drawing comes in metal or aluminum??? I was just doing some basic PM on one of my Diffs and found a hairline crack in it |
Originally Posted by KA2AEV
(Post 14371097)
Hey since we're on diffs
Does anyone know if the part Y2 in the above drawing comes in metal or aluminum??? I was just doing some basic PM on one of my Diffs and found a hairline crack in it http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...FRApaQodbu4EZg |
Since we're still talking about diffs....I've posted this one before. It's from ruebiracer (on Tamiyaclub) showing how to modify an M03 chassis to fit a Spec-R gear diff. But, I recall a few months ago, someone showed how to fit the TOP Racing diff without modifying the chassis. Does anyone remember who that was?
I believe it involved removing the bearing carriers on the diff completely and running the standard 1150 bearing directly on the outdrives. Ring any bells? Pretty sure if I search for "top" or "diff" in this thread, I'd regret it. I really wish this site allowed for Boolean searches. |
Originally Posted by Core Creations
(Post 14371110)
I'm assuming something like this would work...
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...FRApaQodbu4EZg |
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