I just switched mine over last night. The car was of course MUCH heavier on the left-hand side before the switch. Now, using two (cheapo) scales, the left side is just 5 grams heavier than the right. Corners pretty good in the carport, but that doesn't mean much -- I won't have a chance to really test it out on a proper track until Saturday.


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Just a quick update in case anyone's interested:
Now that I have had the car out on the track this past weekend for some racing, I can say this about swapping the ESC to the right-hand side:
Car handles MUCH better than it did before, picked up a ton of time on the infield just through better cornering. (Certainly wasn't driver skill that did it.)
This is the second most useful "mod" I've done to this car (the first was putting a 3Racing oil diff in). Worth every minute I spent on it.
Cheers.

For me, I don't use a stiff setting so it appears to be holding up to the abuse fairly well. Plus, I have a lot of these diff housings so I'd just rebuild them when i rebuild the gearbox. My idler gear goes pretty quick anyway.

Have you tried just shifting your battery to the right side? It worked for me on my M05's. Actually, I do this on my M03 as well since it uses the M05 battery tie-down ends.

Hope to get my 2 degree toe-in uprights for my M03 today. Was supposed to show up yesterday. :rolleyes:

When I had the silver-can motor, shifting the battery to the right was OK, though there was still more weight on the left-hand side. When I put the Reedy 21.5 in, it became so bad that to get it to balance half decently the battery was sticking out too far and interfering with the body.

Oh, I can see that. I only use silver can, so. Good thing you figured out your balance though using the opposing side for the ESC.



Looks like my 2 degree rear uprights for my M03 finally arrived. :D

Nah, once it's adjusted, you can leave it for months. Set it carefully,leave it alone. I do like your idea of the Belleville washers, though. Have to find some really flat ones.

Does anyone have any experience with the LRP F1 16T motor??
Is it a reputable brand?

LRP? I believe so. Shawn from HPI works there. I would imaging they are good.

It looks to be fast enough and not brushless so I think my esc can handle it. It should only draw 22 amps. Good start for a power upgrade for a rookie lol. I'm going to do the gear diff aswell instead of a ball diff. That stock diff is just not going to do what we need it to do. Starting to get the hang of things a little bit.....but much much more learning to come.

2 degrees was too much toe in for my track. Car doesn't rotate worth crap.

Is there anything between M03's stock rear uprights and 2 degrees?

There are the standard 1.5 degree Tamiya versions. (49442, among other part numbers) 54327 1 degree uprights. 54178 are 0 degree, I think.

3Racing has rear uprights in 0, 1, 2 and 3 degrees. Yeah Racing does 1.5 and 3 degree.

You will have to stiffen the rear with tamiya blue springs to take advantage of the two degree uprights... Also make sure the rear track is wider than the front.. My rear is 171mm, and front 166mm.....

Guys thanks for the info. Is the kit upright 0.5 degrees? There seem to be slight toe in?

Besides the rotation issue, 2 degrees was also dragging the rear causing my car from picking up speed quickly. My track is small so I want less drag than 2 degrees on my M03 but more toe in than stock. If there are none in plastic (cheap like $10 or less) I think I am going to make an upper arm to adjust camber to see if I can get the rear to sit better during turn-in.

Funny how my SabreFD runs 2.5 degrees and no issue.


EDIT: Are there any 1 degree or 1.5 degree in plastic? I don't need aluminum parts on my M03, nor do I want to spend $50 on the uprights as it is just a final minor tweak I need to do using the factory rear uprights.

Anyone used M-06 front ball shaft on front of M05, and connect the shocks to that shaft instead of normal shock hole?

Ok so I have the teu101bk esc which is rated at 60A...the power cables going from the motor look to be hard wired to the circuit in the esc. The new motor has new power wires with it but how do u change them? I can't see inside the esc to see if they are soldered on or attached by connectors? How do u change them to attach the new motor to the esc?

Is your new motor brushless? If so you need to get one that supports brushless motors (yellow, blue, orange wires) + sensor wire (like the TBLE02-S if from Tamiya).

If you are sure to run brushless, then you should probably get a better ESC than the TBLE02-S imho as it can't seem to handle timing advance very well. I was looking at the Novak Edge if I was going to run USGT next season. They are only like $99 or something on ebay.