Tamiya mini cooper
Speaking of "type B slicks", how are they?
I've been running Type A's up front and S-Grips in the rear. I realize Type A's are for cooler track temps ...yet I run them even though our track can get upwards of 95-100 degrees ....I always thought Type B's weren't very good (or so I was told). What's your experience? Have you tried both A's and B's?
I've been running Type A's up front and S-Grips in the rear. I realize Type A's are for cooler track temps ...yet I run them even though our track can get upwards of 95-100 degrees ....I always thought Type B's weren't very good (or so I was told). What's your experience? Have you tried both A's and B's?
Sakadachi:
I am using #400 weight ..it seems like a nice middle weight (not too thin/thick). I use that w/ 3-pistons all the way around. Then I play w/ the shock springs for adjusting, ..right now I am using red's on front and yellow's on back.
But I also am using the sway bar set, I dont' recall off-hand what stiffness bars I am using ...I think the hard/stiff bars all the way around. --so this may effect what your doing w/ your shocks.
I am using #400 weight ..it seems like a nice middle weight (not too thin/thick). I use that w/ 3-pistons all the way around. Then I play w/ the shock springs for adjusting, ..right now I am using red's on front and yellow's on back.
But I also am using the sway bar set, I dont' recall off-hand what stiffness bars I am using ...I think the hard/stiff bars all the way around. --so this may effect what your doing w/ your shocks.
I saw that too, $700!! that's insane.
Didn't realize the others were out of country.
I like the mini class and could see collecting them, but to keep my addiction at bay I ONLY buy what I plan to race. I just sold off a bunch of stuff this past year ...so trying to keep what I have light and to a minimum. I have 4 cars and 1 SCT. (I had like 10 or 12 at one point).
Didn't realize the others were out of country.
I like the mini class and could see collecting them, but to keep my addiction at bay I ONLY buy what I plan to race. I just sold off a bunch of stuff this past year ...so trying to keep what I have light and to a minimum. I have 4 cars and 1 SCT. (I had like 10 or 12 at one point).
Butthurt bastard.
I mean, how do you not ship a small parcel for 20 days, deliver 10 days late beyond his expected ETA. I give him a less than stellar review and I get banned from buying again? Very silly! Not fair to all the great vendors that actually ship on-time as decribed each and every time.
Okay,
so I asked about A slicks vs B slicks, I know lots has been written ...but mostly lookking for first hand experience.
Here is one more question,
I notice that Tamiya came out w/ a set of big bore M-series shocks #42291, how do these rate to the #54000's? (I currently have the 54000's which I find to work very well).
so I asked about A slicks vs B slicks, I know lots has been written ...but mostly lookking for first hand experience.
Here is one more question,
I notice that Tamiya came out w/ a set of big bore M-series shocks #42291, how do these rate to the #54000's? (I currently have the 54000's which I find to work very well).
Hey eR1c - I didn't realize you lived in Calgary and shop at the same hobby stores as monkey, Axle and me...
Since when were there so many doll enthusiasts? Maybe its because I am into RC'ing but it seems like there are a lot of guys who are into this ...you'd think a RC hobby shop in a major city would do okay?
Tech Elite

Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,367
Okay,
so I asked about A slicks vs B slicks, I know lots has been written ...but mostly lookking for first hand experience.
Here is one more question,
I notice that Tamiya came out w/ a set of big bore M-series shocks #42291, how do these rate to the #54000's? (I currently have the 54000's which I find to work very well).
so I asked about A slicks vs B slicks, I know lots has been written ...but mostly lookking for first hand experience.
Here is one more question,
I notice that Tamiya came out w/ a set of big bore M-series shocks #42291, how do these rate to the #54000's? (I currently have the 54000's which I find to work very well).
Just from a theoretical viewpoint the big bore shock should be a smoother shock due to it's increased oil volume. I replace the short shock bodies on the 54000 shocks with the longer TC shock body to get the same action. The 54000shock has never worked well for me until I started using the longer shock body and it's attendant increase in oil volume.
Speaking of "type B slicks", how are they?
I've been running Type A's up front and S-Grips in the rear. I realize Type A's are for cooler track temps ...yet I run them even though our track can get upwards of 95-100 degrees ....I always thought Type B's weren't very good (or so I was told). What's your experience? Have you tried both A's and B's?
I've been running Type A's up front and S-Grips in the rear. I realize Type A's are for cooler track temps ...yet I run them even though our track can get upwards of 95-100 degrees ....I always thought Type B's weren't very good (or so I was told). What's your experience? Have you tried both A's and B's?
I mentioned them as a spec tire for longer life, not for better performance.
I wonder if this could be specific to the batch, or if the compound has been changed (like what happened to the S-grips)? I bought all my tires (A, B, and S) about 18 months ago.
For me the B tires had more grip the A tire. All around a much better tire than the A. Again, outdoor asphalt and not carpet.
Just from a theoretical viewpoint the big bore shock should be a smoother shock due to it's increased oil volume. I replace the short shock bodies on the 54000 shocks with the longer TC shock body to get the same action. The 54000shock has never worked well for me until I started using the longer shock body and it's attendant increase in oil volume.
Just from a theoretical viewpoint the big bore shock should be a smoother shock due to it's increased oil volume. I replace the short shock bodies on the 54000 shocks with the longer TC shock body to get the same action. The 54000shock has never worked well for me until I started using the longer shock body and it's attendant increase in oil volume.
As for the shocks, this is good info, -thank you!
The Type B compound is just a bit softer than industrial-grade diamond. They have very little traction, and last nearly forever. On high-grip carpet, they worked okay on the front (without needing the sidewalls glued), with less traction than the Type A, and would probably be okay on all corners with some spring and sway bar adjustments.
Tech Elite

Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,367
We also played hell trying to get the new cpd S-Grips to work. My apologies to eR1c cause Howard's info is probably more current than mine. Another tire down the toilet.
We also played hell trying to get the new cpd S-Grips to work. My apologies to eR1c cause Howard's info is probably more current than mine. Another tire down the toilet.
The LHS stocking something like this is like the second coming / Armageddon / 40 virgins and all other BS, isn't gona happen. Just be happy we can get S grip tires.
I might just get onto RCmart sometime. Always loved the Civic. Although my all time fav will always be the Miata. When I have more time, I may reinvestigate the body former too. Only did one pull (yes that's what its called you dirty minded peeps) and it came out terrible. More tests in the future.
What is this roller thing you speak of??
I might just get onto RCmart sometime. Always loved the Civic. Although my all time fav will always be the Miata. When I have more time, I may reinvestigate the body former too. Only did one pull (yes that's what its called you dirty minded peeps) and it came out terrible. More tests in the future.
What is this roller thing you speak of??
I don't look at the exchange rate - it is too depressing. I just call it a tax on life.
For RWD minis - that HPI Miata is my fav too. Still have a few of those NIB too.
On good prepped asphalt the Type Bs are awesome. I personally wouldn't run them in any other situation. As mentioned...they seem to have more grip while not folding over so no traction rolling.
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 8,404
Type B in front, and type A in the rear, but all with proline CA glue on the sidewalls.... Other CA glues don't seem to give the same flex as proline, causing more rollovers, at least on my m03... I also use blue spring rear and yellow front with tamiya TC shocks...
I realize that rents here are ridiculous but with the ptices that are being charged for
the gear we buy that it would off set it, but I guess being a small specility based business
Is tough these days!!!



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