M05 newbie

Well with the time I don't have...I just make up my own tracks right now lol...so bashing but eventually racing. I think I wanna look at the TA03 then. And ya cups not axles lol.

Do u have any help on the wheel bearing play issue I'm having monkey???

Granpa

No, it is not. You remove one of the smaller cone or Belleville washers and use all 3 of the larger ones. Unless you are wanting to make your diff very tight, this isn't the best way to do it. This is a technique that we used many years ago, but abandoned cause it seems to load up the thrust washer unduly and causes premature failure. A diff built this way is never "smooth" and needs frequent rebuilds. If I remember correctly, leaving out one of the large washers gives you a looser diff.

What might be a better way is to build per the instructions, but use a shim or shims on the diff nut or screw. It takes the same size shim as you use on the axles. The advantage here is that you can make the adjustments in 0.1mm increments so that you can have the diff action you want. I generally use between 0.2-0.5mm in shims, but I do't run them ultra tight.

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Your local hobby shop probably carries Traxxas stuff. See if they have packages of 0.5mm Teflon washers. If you fit one to the axle, before you install it into the upright, it'll take up that slack. One at each corner should cover it. The bonus is there'll be some extras you can use for shimming out other stuff.

Granpa

All of this was covered in discussions just recently. Basic difference between the two is that the M05 diff is designed to be set up on the "loose" side. It uses outdrives that were designed to be used with plastic C pieces over the pins on the axles so the slots and bearings used are much bigger. The basic construction is more like a TC diff and is a more refined piece.

The TA03 diff uses outdrives the similar to the kit ones and does not require you to change bearings to a larger size. Once built you can just drop it in with no changes, whereas the M05 diff needs larger bearings and pin protecters. They may be included in the diff kit. I posted a very detailed set up "sheet" for you that included what diff would be the best for you to use.

This may just be my ego speaking, but why not just go back and do that. You don't have to think so you won't get confused

M05 newbie

Thanks Granpa. I just wanted to see the difference between the 2. Now I understand a whole lot better. TA03 it is. Thankyou for the clarity.

M05 newbie

So just a teflon washer on the inside of the wheel bearing...on the outer most bearing...the bearing closest to the wheel right? Have u ever had this happen building an m05?

KA2AEV

iTrader: (1)

Hey newbie?
Instead of spending some hard earned money on a Ball Diff
Why not try locking up the stock gear diff?
if you go to your local pharmacy and get a couple of foam ear plugs, cut them up, and stuff them in the gear diff it will tighten it up a bunch.

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

One the axle, before installing into the upright. Furthest from the wheel.

32819toon

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=Granpa;14078213]The best 60D tires are Pit Shimizu tires with the Tamiya hard foam insert. Not TCS legal for obvious reasons. Use the 456 or 454 in front and the 452 in back.


Granpa, thanks for the tyre tips. I tried the 456 up front (couldn't get 454), and 452 at the back, both with hard inserts. The car pushed an awful lot, but was much better with M Grips up front. I tried the 3Racing rear shock tower & had the shocks in the outside hole. I had 3Racing Gold springs up front & 40wt oil all round. Might try softer springs up front next time to get better turn in. Didn't get chance to experiment much as the heavens opened after 1 race.

Valuable lesson - both mine & my sons car DNF'd due to screws backing out of alloy parts. He was leading with 30 secs left in the race ! ALWAYS THREADLOCK SCREWS INTO ALLOY PARTS !!!

M05 newbie

Hey I have a bunch at work. I could definitely try it but I just don't wanna have to take the car apart TOO frequently...I. E if ear plugs don't work. How much per say would u put in there?? Is the idea too lock it or let it turn still a little individually?? I'm replacing gears now too anyway so I might try the cheaper route. And I thought locking the diff completley was not a good idea....it should have some slip right?

KA2AEV

iTrader: (1)

The foam won't completely lock it up. I haven't played with this yet, but several of the drivers I know from the tcs events we attend are doing it that way and they seem really competitive
If you gotta pull it apart to replace the gears, what do you have to loose?
you'll just have to figure out if it fits your driving style

M05 newbie

I just don't want to have to pull it out again if it doesn't work. Wife seems to think that I should spend ZERO time on it haha. It's a better hobby than something that makes me have to leave the house all the time. But I guess the better I get the more I do it the less time it will take me to fix it and stuff. I'll give it a shot for now. So do I cut em in half...the ear plugs...and Jam them in or smaller pieces and kind of fill it like a box for shipping with the foam stuff in it lol...

KA2AEV

iTrader: (1)

What I saw was the guys chopping them up into pieces and shoving them
in the gear case. One of the guys said to be careful when rescrewing the cover back on

M05 newbie

So more or less pack it a little bit. I'm going to try this. See if it helps out a little bit. It'll get me rolling sooner when I get my gears next week considering the diff isnt even ordered yet. I'll post pics if I can and show the process of what i did. Hey I know I've been told about gears a few times but I think in going with the tamiya reinforced (black). Any other favorites out there when it comes to m05 gears? Mainly for toughness.

Granpa

[QUOTE=32819toon;14081781]To get better turn in the obvious things to do are to increase weight or weight transfer to the front wheels. The other is to use tires with a higher coefficient of friction-----stickier tires. 454s are what I usually use, but traction roll can become a problem unless you add glue to the side walls. While both tires are important, the outside front wheel is the oe that's most important.

Let's go through the things you can do to your set up one by one. The first is the one you mentioned which is to go to a softer spring. The second is to lower the front ride height in relation to the front. The 3rd is to increase the length of the rear shocks. These are the obvious ones.

There are some others, but I don't know what option parts you are using. The stock hex drives are 6mm, you could use the option 4 or 5mm alloy hexes----expensive, but nice parts to have. If you have the option shock towers, try the second hole on the front and play with the shock angles in the rear. If you do't have the rear shock tower you could try a spring one step softer. If you have the roll bar on the rear, you could go to the softer one or remove it. You could also bump your ride height up a mm or two all around. As you can tell these are to let the car roll a bit more so you'll have a little more lateral weight shift, which will load the outside front wheel.

The one most overlooked by less experienced racers is the toe out and also the most disputed. I'll give you my take on it and you can try both ways and come to your own conclusions. If you want better turn in, I reduce the amount of toe out. Often I use almost zero. Guys with a TC background think you add or increase toe out. I think this makes the car sluggish. This is also the one that affects the turn in the most.

I recently posted a tip on the way I check toe out cause, for me, it's very difficult to check by eyeballing it while the car is resting on all 4 wheels. I turn the car on it's side, then put the front tire resting on the table, flat against the table. Then check the angle of the upper wheel. This will in effect double the angle you're judging, thus making it much easier to gauge your toe out.

Hope this helps and I don't mean to sound like your high school math teacher.