295LikesTamiya mini cooper
10-31-2006 | 06:00 AM
#2221
Tech Adept
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 160
Originally Posted by sup
if the m03m front suspension is really from the ta04, then maybe there are caster blocks available for it? ..just thinking out loud, i never had a ta04. 
DrKucho: how did p/n#53226 affect driving and handling for you?
(#53226 - touring car aluminum front hub carrier
and has 2 degree of caster.)
10-31-2006 | 09:34 AM
#2222
Tech Adept
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 166
Originally Posted by minimanintaiwan
This caster talk is interesting. Yes, is there anyone out there that knows if there are C-Hubs (caster blocks) that will work for MO3M ?
DrKucho: how did p/n#53226 affect driving and handling for you?
(#53226 - touring car aluminum front hub carrier
and has 2 degree of caster.)
DrKucho: how did p/n#53226 affect driving and handling for you?
(#53226 - touring car aluminum front hub carrier
and has 2 degree of caster.)
10-31-2006 | 09:17 PM
#2224
Tech Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,155
Originally Posted by Sydewynder
Negative caster is not a good idea.
Positive caster gives you something called camber rise. This is an increase in negative camber on the outside wheel as it turns. When your car turns and the chassis rolls, with camber rise (gain) hopefully you will end up with and large contact patch in the center of your tire for max grip. With negative caster your outside wheel will get positive camber (top of the wheel tipped outwards) as the wheel turns. You end up riding on the outer edge of the tire. To see what I mean take a look at offroad trucks and buggies. They have alot of positive caster. Look from the front straight back and turn the wheels. You'll see negative camber gain on the outside wheel. The Tamiya minis we run have positive caster. It comes from the kick-up built into the chassis. The shopping cart example does not work here. The pivot axis is still straight up and down (vertical). Its just that the wheel is offset back (trail). Theres no camber change. On RCs the pivot axis runs through the wheel. The stability in shopping cart is solely due to trail and not negative caster.
Positive caster gives you something called camber rise. This is an increase in negative camber on the outside wheel as it turns. When your car turns and the chassis rolls, with camber rise (gain) hopefully you will end up with and large contact patch in the center of your tire for max grip. With negative caster your outside wheel will get positive camber (top of the wheel tipped outwards) as the wheel turns. You end up riding on the outer edge of the tire. To see what I mean take a look at offroad trucks and buggies. They have alot of positive caster. Look from the front straight back and turn the wheels. You'll see negative camber gain on the outside wheel. The Tamiya minis we run have positive caster. It comes from the kick-up built into the chassis. The shopping cart example does not work here. The pivot axis is still straight up and down (vertical). Its just that the wheel is offset back (trail). Theres no camber change. On RCs the pivot axis runs through the wheel. The stability in shopping cart is solely due to trail and not negative caster.
Originally Posted by Sydewynder
Akuhon:
Maybe this is why the outside of your foam tires wear out so fast. You're getting positive camber change running the C Hubs reversed.
1. have an adjustable upper arm link (no lucky so far, maybe I'll try with some Tobee parts)
2. move the upper arm mounting holes on chassis a bit inward.
What I did is number 2 (with my previous M03 chassis for outlaw) :
See the U-shape Suspension shaft. it's from DF-02 U-shaft.... I use it 'cause the bumper comes from TL-01B (buggy style) ...
And make some modification for the front part with this :
Just some info ....the look form the bottom :
The center lower hole on battery part is totally a big mistake, make the chassis flex too much ... For this outlaw class I need the chassis as flex as it can but unfortunately it's too flex...
BTW . thanks for the info about Yaris body.... I don't have it yet ...
SUP:
But for my new M03 chassis (grey chassis) I did only a little mod. 'cause it's lighter than black chassis. The black chassis is stiffer and heavy than the grey one (IMO)
Have a look :
Cut the battery holes to support the side-by-side pack .... I never use stickpack on outlaw chassis
See the grey hubs (fron C-hub and rear hub) .. it's lighter too....
10-31-2006 | 10:49 PM
#2226
Tech Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,633
From: Auburn, WA
Originally Posted by akuhon
What you say is on the RCTEK Web site
Yes I know.. I've said it before.... some possible things to avoid this problem are :
1. have an adjustable upper arm link (no lucky so far, maybe I'll try with some Tobee parts)
2. move the upper arm mounting holes on chassis a bit inward.
What I did is number 2 (with my previous M03 chassis for outlaw) :
See the U-shape Suspension shaft. it's from DF-02 U-shaft.... I use it 'cause the bumper comes from TL-01B (buggy style) ...
And make some modification for the front part with this :
Just some info ....the look form the bottom :
The center lower hole on battery part is totally a big mistake, make the chassis flex too much ... For this outlaw class I need the chassis as flex as it can but unfortunately it's too flex...
BTW . thanks for the info about Yaris body.... I don't have it yet ...
SUP:
But for my new M03 chassis (grey chassis) I did only a little mod. 'cause it's lighter than black chassis. The black chassis is stiffer and heavy than the grey one (IMO)
Have a look :
Cut the battery holes to support the side-by-side pack .... I never use stickpack on outlaw chassis
See the grey hubs (fron C-hub and rear hub) .. it's lighter too....
Yes I know.. I've said it before.... some possible things to avoid this problem are :
1. have an adjustable upper arm link (no lucky so far, maybe I'll try with some Tobee parts)
2. move the upper arm mounting holes on chassis a bit inward.
What I did is number 2 (with my previous M03 chassis for outlaw) :
See the U-shape Suspension shaft. it's from DF-02 U-shaft.... I use it 'cause the bumper comes from TL-01B (buggy style) ...
And make some modification for the front part with this :
Just some info ....the look form the bottom :
The center lower hole on battery part is totally a big mistake, make the chassis flex too much ... For this outlaw class I need the chassis as flex as it can but unfortunately it's too flex...
BTW . thanks for the info about Yaris body.... I don't have it yet ...
SUP:
But for my new M03 chassis (grey chassis) I did only a little mod. 'cause it's lighter than black chassis. The black chassis is stiffer and heavy than the grey one (IMO)
Have a look :
Cut the battery holes to support the side-by-side pack .... I never use stickpack on outlaw chassis
See the grey hubs (fron C-hub and rear hub) .. it's lighter too....
11-02-2006 | 02:25 AM
#2228
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,549
From: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Ever seen a RWD F103 based Mini?
Neither had we. Check our latest update for the pics and story on something that may not be quite what it appears to be.....
http://www.rc-mini.net
Neither had we. Check our latest update for the pics and story on something that may not be quite what it appears to be.....
http://www.rc-mini.net
11-02-2006 | 08:43 AM
#2229
Tech Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,155
Originally Posted by tony gray
Ever seen a RWD F103 based Mini?
Neither had we. Check our latest update for the pics and story on something that may not be quite what it appears to be.....
http://www.rc-mini.net
Neither had we. Check our latest update for the pics and story on something that may not be quite what it appears to be.....
http://www.rc-mini.net
However those F103 mini maker is not so creative with the body.....
Mine is better.
I did make the TRF mini chassis and accomplished with the mini cooper bodies ...
Check this out :
1.The chassis
2. Comparison with original M-03
Width The TRF mini is wider than original M-03
Length / wheelbase is the same with M03 (not "M" nor "L" version)
3. The make of the body
real body
marking for cut and setting holes for body
cut the body
try it on
paint it
4. FINISHED !!!
Enjoy
11-02-2006 | 10:05 AM
#2232
Tech Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,155
Originally Posted by MTX3-B
Wickedly awesome! 
truly and arguably the most innovative Mini-Mod of the year!
5 star rating....
regards,
truly and arguably the most innovative Mini-Mod of the year!
5 star rating....
regards,
Originally Posted by sup
wow! ..nuff said
how does that creation of yours handle?
how does that creation of yours handle?
11-06-2006 | 09:58 PM
#2235
Tech Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,155
Originally Posted by racenut
akuhon
very creative!!!
very creative!!!
Does any of you try some mod by moving the steering servo to rear part of the chassis ?
It will give you a bit grip on the rear .... IMO.
I see this on Jap Magazine, I will post the pic later.
Or if you have any reference web site that do this mod, please let me know .... Make sure it's for M-03, not M-01 nor M02 ...