288LikesTamiya mini cooper
06-23-2014, 01:18 PM
Tech Adept
alright, so I got another m05 coming in that I'm going to convert to a rally car
what all should I get to do so?
I'm thinking:
m05-ra f parts (51425)
m05-ra skid plate (51426)
m05 block tires (51427)
and I read I also need longer ball connectors (19805825)?
not sure what shocks to go with, was thinking just cva or 3racing aluminum ones again
what all should I get to do so?
I'm thinking:
m05-ra f parts (51425)
m05-ra skid plate (51426)
m05 block tires (51427)
and I read I also need longer ball connectors (19805825)?
not sure what shocks to go with, was thinking just cva or 3racing aluminum ones again
06-23-2014, 01:54 PM
Thanks for the suggestions about the front-mid AWD cars.
06-23-2014, 02:42 PM
...
As for pushing the limits of the rules, I think that is not the point of the rules. The rules are there to create a fun environment for people to play with toy cars. Take a look around you. Every time someone focuses on pushing the limits of the rules, the fun goes out the window. Perhaps you should try to have fun instead.
As for pushing the limits of the rules, I think that is not the point of the rules. The rules are there to create a fun environment for people to play with toy cars. Take a look around you. Every time someone focuses on pushing the limits of the rules, the fun goes out the window. Perhaps you should try to have fun instead.
06-23-2014, 03:03 PM
Taking this hobby too serious, has been a problem at our club, but I personally dont mind attempting to promote enjoyable, fun RC races. I know our current club pres does an amazing job to promote fun. He is very approachable and will have a laugh with everyone, he doesnt take himself too seriously. We race on Friday nights, and the laughing and jokes that happen all night, keep us coming back week after week. I am actually looking forward to winter when we start up again!
06-23-2014, 06:42 PM
I was looking to get this class started at our local track and wonder what rules you all use?
I looked through a lot of pages but roughly 1500 pages makes the search tough.
Here is our local track in Chesapeake VA (Debbie RC World)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbk9T-xplQs
I looked through a lot of pages but roughly 1500 pages makes the search tough.
Here is our local track in Chesapeake VA (Debbie RC World)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbk9T-xplQs
| + YouTube Video | |
06-23-2014, 06:58 PM
Carcar is a MUCH happier place than it was when I first walked through the door in 2008. Besides good people, I give heaps of credit to 2.4ghz radios, brushless motors, lipo batteries and rubber tires on touring cars. Reliability, speed and a lot less crap to haul around.
Pan car guys are still a bunch of miserable ****s though.
Pan car guys are still a bunch of miserable ****s though.
06-24-2014, 01:01 AM
Tech Regular
Hi guys,
Ive asked in another thread, but it doesn't seem as active as this one so I'll try here. I'm very new to RC so these questions may seem a little stupid.
Are m03 and m05 bodies interchangeable (I know there are different Wheel Bases)? Is this the same for all m-chassis bodies? Are the body posts in the same position?
Ive ordered some TRF dampers for my m05. What is a good starting point to try for setting them up? Oil wt? spring colour? front and rear?
Ive asked in another thread, but it doesn't seem as active as this one so I'll try here. I'm very new to RC so these questions may seem a little stupid.
Are m03 and m05 bodies interchangeable (I know there are different Wheel Bases)? Is this the same for all m-chassis bodies? Are the body posts in the same position?
Ive ordered some TRF dampers for my m05. What is a good starting point to try for setting them up? Oil wt? spring colour? front and rear?
06-24-2014, 01:10 AM
Yes, bodies interchange. There are some companies making smaller bodies (190mm wheelbase), notably Team Blue Groove in Canadia, beautiful but you won't fit them on any mini. Too short. They do have "normal" mini bodies too, so read carefully.
For on road you need Tamiya item 54000 ("TRF" mini shocks). Just go with kit settings and adjust afterwards if needed listening to what your track is telling you.
For on road you need Tamiya item 54000 ("TRF" mini shocks). Just go with kit settings and adjust afterwards if needed listening to what your track is telling you.
06-24-2014, 03:50 AM
06-24-2014, 06:26 AM
Tech Initiate
fillipimini
I am absolutely not qualified to give advice on doing the shocks because i am very new to this hobby. But i have in the last 6 mths fitted two sets of oil filled shocks (3racing and CVA) to mine and my sons cars. I ffiddled around with spring rates and oils and came to one final conclusion when struggling to set my car up (Good grip tarmac).
Rebound is just as important as the spring rate.
I had set mine up as per the instructions for both sets. I used them little blobs of foam in the top caps etc. I filled the oil to the levels required. I put the springs on and unbeknown to me i had fitted pogo sticks to my cars. The rebound was almost acting like a spring all on its own.
A guy i know rebuilt my shocks. Removed the foam bung. Put an extra spacer or 2 on the shock shaft to shorten it and get it to a reasonable length (More spacers mean shorter shock shaft (You only use a few mm so the length is really not effecting the travel). There is an ideal figure but i forget what length shock you should aim for (50 something mm). He then made sure when he put the oil in that the shock had pretty limited rebound. A little bit but about 10% of what i had originally. Also make sure all the shocks start at equal length the adjustments can all be uniform.
I know i dont have the experience of these guys but as a newcomer this was a massive eye opener for me in how the car performed. Now when i change the springs its the spring effecting the driving, not the rebound. The back end grip was transformed.
Hope this helps and if i have said anything incorrect i apologise as i was watching someone else do it
I am absolutely not qualified to give advice on doing the shocks because i am very new to this hobby. But i have in the last 6 mths fitted two sets of oil filled shocks (3racing and CVA) to mine and my sons cars. I ffiddled around with spring rates and oils and came to one final conclusion when struggling to set my car up (Good grip tarmac).
Rebound is just as important as the spring rate.
I had set mine up as per the instructions for both sets. I used them little blobs of foam in the top caps etc. I filled the oil to the levels required. I put the springs on and unbeknown to me i had fitted pogo sticks to my cars. The rebound was almost acting like a spring all on its own.
A guy i know rebuilt my shocks. Removed the foam bung. Put an extra spacer or 2 on the shock shaft to shorten it and get it to a reasonable length (More spacers mean shorter shock shaft (You only use a few mm so the length is really not effecting the travel). There is an ideal figure but i forget what length shock you should aim for (50 something mm). He then made sure when he put the oil in that the shock had pretty limited rebound. A little bit but about 10% of what i had originally. Also make sure all the shocks start at equal length the adjustments can all be uniform.
I know i dont have the experience of these guys but as a newcomer this was a massive eye opener for me in how the car performed. Now when i change the springs its the spring effecting the driving, not the rebound. The back end grip was transformed.
Hope this helps and if i have said anything incorrect i apologise as i was watching someone else do it
06-24-2014, 08:50 AM
fillipimini
I am absolutely not qualified to give advice on doing the shocks because i am very new to this hobby. But i have in the last 6 mths fitted two sets of oil filled shocks (3racing and CVA) to mine and my sons cars. I ffiddled around with spring rates and oils and came to one final conclusion when struggling to set my car up (Good grip tarmac).
Rebound is just as important as the spring rate.
I had set mine up as per the instructions for both sets. I used them little blobs of foam in the top caps etc. I filled the oil to the levels required. I put the springs on and unbeknown to me i had fitted pogo sticks to my cars. The rebound was almost acting like a spring all on its own.
A guy i know rebuilt my shocks. Removed the foam bung. Put an extra spacer or 2 on the shock shaft to shorten it and get it to a reasonable length (More spacers mean shorter shock shaft (You only use a few mm so the length is really not effecting the travel). There is an ideal figure but i forget what length shock you should aim for (50 something mm). He then made sure when he put the oil in that the shock had pretty limited rebound. A little bit but about 10% of what i had originally. Also make sure all the shocks start at equal length the adjustments can all be uniform.
I know i dont have the experience of these guys but as a newcomer this was a massive eye opener for me in how the car performed. Now when i change the springs its the spring effecting the driving, not the rebound. The back end grip was transformed.
Hope this helps and if i have said anything incorrect i apologise as i was watching someone else do it
I am absolutely not qualified to give advice on doing the shocks because i am very new to this hobby. But i have in the last 6 mths fitted two sets of oil filled shocks (3racing and CVA) to mine and my sons cars. I ffiddled around with spring rates and oils and came to one final conclusion when struggling to set my car up (Good grip tarmac).
Rebound is just as important as the spring rate.
I had set mine up as per the instructions for both sets. I used them little blobs of foam in the top caps etc. I filled the oil to the levels required. I put the springs on and unbeknown to me i had fitted pogo sticks to my cars. The rebound was almost acting like a spring all on its own.
A guy i know rebuilt my shocks. Removed the foam bung. Put an extra spacer or 2 on the shock shaft to shorten it and get it to a reasonable length (More spacers mean shorter shock shaft (You only use a few mm so the length is really not effecting the travel). There is an ideal figure but i forget what length shock you should aim for (50 something mm). He then made sure when he put the oil in that the shock had pretty limited rebound. A little bit but about 10% of what i had originally. Also make sure all the shocks start at equal length the adjustments can all be uniform.
I know i dont have the experience of these guys but as a newcomer this was a massive eye opener for me in how the car performed. Now when i change the springs its the spring effecting the driving, not the rebound. The back end grip was transformed.
Hope this helps and if i have said anything incorrect i apologise as i was watching someone else do it
There was a good shock discussion awhile ago. Also a video on how to build shocks has been posted. Several have posted how to build shocks, including me. You know the most important ting about shocks and that it needs to be tailored to the track conditios.
06-24-2014, 09:08 AM
06-24-2014, 09:19 AM
Tech Initiate
Just checking for the pm now grandpa. Much appreciated
06-24-2014, 05:52 PM
dbl post
Last edited by sad_rocc; 06-24-2014 at 05:54 PM. Reason: double post
06-24-2014, 05:53 PM
My track is asphalt with good grip and a pretty bumpy straightaway. I bought these: http://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Super-M.../dp/B0000WRXPS so much cheaper than the trf ones and only difference is plastic instead of aluminum.
Built them with no foam spacer, the plastic spacer included (perfect height) & used the 3-hole piston. Filled 30wt oil to very top then put bladder on and slowly squeezed the excess oil out. All the shocks have a very slight (1/4 length maybe), soft rebound and are working great so far. There is a bit of body roll through corners and some swaybars are on my list to try out, but its very predictable. No problem going full throttle through the bumps on the straight. Not better than TRF ones of course, but very good especially if you're on a budget.
Built them with no foam spacer, the plastic spacer included (perfect height) & used the 3-hole piston. Filled 30wt oil to very top then put bladder on and slowly squeezed the excess oil out. All the shocks have a very slight (1/4 length maybe), soft rebound and are working great so far. There is a bit of body roll through corners and some swaybars are on my list to try out, but its very predictable. No problem going full throttle through the bumps on the straight. Not better than TRF ones of course, but very good especially if you're on a budget.