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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 02-24-2015, 10:12 PM
  #22921  
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Originally Posted by grumpaw
If you want, I have an extra set of Mini decals---came with a body Tower Hobbies sent to replace a damaged one in the kit. PM me your address and I'll send you the headlight stickers.
Grumpaw
Thanks for the offer, Grumpaw! But you should definitely keep them cause it only takes one knick and that headlamp decal is torn. My wife is experimenting with laser printer labels for me.

Originally Posted by Neils74
We spend enough cash on this stuff, so might as well protect it in transit.
I tried a dedicated carry case, but I'll be honest, it was naff.

I converted my old Pelican camera case to carry the car, radio (as seen in picture) and then spares including 4 sets of wheels and tires, 4 batteries and charger mounted in more foam underneath the car and radio.
Wow! nice work Neils.

I usually just take a large plastic tub with lid (bought at Target stores) and just stack them up on my hand dolly and roll it out to the parking lot for some weekend fun. For my radio I have the Futaba hard case.
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Old 02-25-2015, 03:28 PM
  #22922  
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So for those of you with the M05's running the rounded Lipo packs, would you please recommend me a few packs I should try?

I only run silver cans at home so I am thinking 20C would be plenty. Like the HPI 20C rounded pack 4000mAh.

Also chargers. I dont foresee ever getting any large capacity packs, so would the Much More Racing Hybrid 5A be plenty for me do you think? I want to get an AC/DC charger but something where I can dial the charge rate as I will be using it to charge NiCd and NiMH as well. Thanks.
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Old 02-25-2015, 03:34 PM
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I recommend this one:

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=2745

(they actually have them for less $$ in lower capacity).

I used this battery all last year in our club and was able to finish 3rd overall out of about 10+ racers. If your running the silvercan this battery is probably as good as you'll get out of that motor and the stock ESC (I assume your running the stock esc)?

Chargers, you can pick one up from HobbyKing, -they are cheap and made in China, but they work fine. I used one for a few years until I needed something that could charge higher capacity then switched to a Dynamite brand charger which I absolutely love. --but it wasn't cheap.
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Old 02-25-2015, 03:39 PM
  #22924  
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Originally Posted by eR1c
I recommend this one:

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=2745

(they actually have them for less $$ in lower capacity).

I used this battery all last year in our club and was able to finish 3rd overall out of about 10+ racers. If your running the silvercan this battery is probably as good as you'll get out of that motor and the stock ESC (I assume your running the stock esc)?

Chargers, you can pick one up from HobbyKing, -they are cheap and made in China, but they work fine. I used one for a few years until I needed something that could charge higher capacity then switched to a Dynamite brand charger which I absolutely love. --but it wasn't cheap.
Thanks, eR1c! I will take a look.

So I read a lot about fire risk on these Lipo's while charging. Is it really that bad? I mean I read to place it in those fire bags, etc. but honestly I don't think I could sit there for hours just baby sitting batteries charging.
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Old 02-25-2015, 03:49 PM
  #22925  
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Originally Posted by sakadachi
Thanks, eR1c! I will take a look.

So I read a lot about fire risk on these Lipo's while charging. Is it really that bad? I mean I read to place it in those fire bags, etc. but honestly I don't think I could sit there for hours just baby sitting batteries charging.
The risks have been exaggerated, but they require common sense to use safely, like anything else. Just be sure to use the right type of charger, balance the pack every so often and don't let it run down below a safe voltage. Follow these and a few other essentials and lipos will last you for years.

There are loads of web based resources available, or we'd all be happy to fill in the gaps for you here.

Jim
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Old 02-25-2015, 03:58 PM
  #22926  
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
The risks have been exaggerated, but they require common sense to use safely, like anything else. Just be sure to use the right type of charger, balance the pack every so often and don't let it run down below a safe voltage. Follow these and a few other essentials and lipos will last you for years.

There are loads of web based resources available, or we'd all be happy to fill in the gaps for you here.

Jim
Thanks! Definitely relearning RC.
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Old 02-25-2015, 07:02 PM
  #22927  
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Default Back to the drawing board

After realizing that the body shell would have to be carried separately, a rethink was needed as well as new foam for the case

This time it was also sprayed with 2 cans of black Plastidip to keep the foam from falling apart with time and use.
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya mini cooper-2.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-1.jpg  
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Old 02-25-2015, 08:08 PM
  #22928  
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Originally Posted by Neils74
After realizing that the body shell would have to be carried separately, a rethink was needed as well as new foam for the case

This time it was also sprayed with 2 cans of black Plastidip to keep the foam from falling apart with time and use.
Very nice, Neils!!!
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Old 02-25-2015, 08:19 PM
  #22929  
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So my ball diff is loosening up on my M05 and it actually handles my tight track better. Pretty soon I need to open it up and tighten it. Should I just swap to open diff?

The question of the week for me.
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Old 02-25-2015, 10:31 PM
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I sort of, unintentionally killed off one of Doc Mertes' finest full race Red Dots tonight. I think it may have been in the way out anyhow. It was a used motor that I think came out of an F104. I had it in my M-04, with a 21t pinion, S-Grips, on a fairly flowing indoor track. I got in about nine good laps and a really slow one right at the end.

Motor temp, after dawdling on the way to my bench, was 210. Going by the smell, I'd guess it peaked closer to 240. Silver cans get really sluggish when that happens!

Last edited by monkeyracing; 02-25-2015 at 10:48 PM.
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Old 02-26-2015, 11:02 AM
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So I read a lot about fire risk on these Lipo's while charging. Is it really that bad? I mean I read to place it in those fire bags, etc. but honestly I don't think I could sit there for hours just baby sitting batteries charging.
Lipo fires may not happen that often, not sure the actual stats. However I have seen at least 3 cases of lipos catching fire in the past year alone. 2 were at a club event. I've also had a lipo or two "puff" up on me and seen several that have sparked. It doesn't happen often, but when it does it is a nasty fire that seems to have endless fuel.

What I've noticed in several cases is that usually both a positive and negative wire is exposed which creates a spark and in turn a fire. This is usually because the heatshrink tubing around the wires has worn or didn't cover the exposed wires completely. Also I think some batteries can over-deplete (this is usually regulated by the ESC), -but I think in the fires I saw the ESC failing could have been the culprit as well?

------
With all of that said, I believe that if you follow a few simple rules lipos can be safe and you can be prepared should they catch fire.

Here is what i do and recommend:
1)Store lipos in a lipo safe bag when not in use (do not keep them in your car or wired to the car's esc)
2)When charging be sure you are home, you don't have to sit and stare at the batteries, but you really shouldn't leave the house. Should a lipo malfunction while charging you'll want to be home.
3)If your lipo battery puffs up (the case actually puffs up) do not continue to use the battery, -it's not worth the risk. There are methods to de-activiate a lipo that has gone bad, but I have brought mine to the recycle center by our house.
4) if you notice your lipo battery case is damaged in any way, i'd stop using it.

I do feel lipos are the way to go, they pack a lot of punch for less weight than traditional RC batteries. I also think they can be safe as long as you take precautions.
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Old 02-26-2015, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by eR1c
Lipo fires may not happen that often, not sure the actual stats. However I have seen at least 3 cases of lipos catching fire in the past year alone. 2 were at a club event. I've also had a lipo or two "puff" up on me and seen several that have sparked. It doesn't happen often, but when it does it is a nasty fire that seems to have endless fuel.

What I've noticed in several cases is that usually both a positive and negative wire is exposed which creates a spark and in turn a fire. This is usually because the heatshrink tubing around the wires has worn or didn't cover the exposed wires completely. Also I think some batteries can over-deplete (this is usually regulated by the ESC), -but I think in the fires I saw the ESC failing could have been the culprit as well?

------
With all of that said, I believe that if you follow a few simple rules lipos can be safe and you can be prepared should they catch fire.

Here is what i do and recommend:
1)Store lipos in a lipo safe bag when not in use (do not keep them in your car or wired to the car's esc)
2)When charging be sure you are home, you don't have to sit and stare at the batteries, but you really shouldn't leave the house. Should a lipo malfunction while charging you'll want to be home.
3)If your lipo battery puffs up (the case actually puffs up) do not continue to use the battery, -it's not worth the risk. There are methods to de-activiate a lipo that has gone bad, but I have brought mine to the recycle center by our house.
4) if you notice your lipo battery case is damaged in any way, i'd stop using it.

I do feel lipos are the way to go, they pack a lot of punch for less weight than traditional RC batteries. I also think they can be safe as long as you take precautions.
Thanks for the insight eR1c!

I guess with anything precautions go a long way. It's not as though charging old school NiCd's is 100% safe either. I do stay around the vicinity while charging, and touch the batteries from time to time ensuring that they aren't getting hot.
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Old 02-26-2015, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
I sort of, unintentionally killed off one of Doc Mertes' finest full race Red Dots tonight. I think it may have been in the way out anyhow. It was a used motor that I think came out of an F104. I had it in my M-04, with a 21t pinion, S-Grips, on a fairly flowing indoor track. I got in about nine good laps and a really slow one right at the end.

Motor temp, after dawdling on the way to my bench, was 210. Going by the smell, I'd guess it peaked closer to 240. Silver cans get really sluggish when that happens!
Ouch, sorry to hear.

Is it fairly normal to have telemetry thermocouples on brushless motors?
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Old 02-26-2015, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by sakadachi
Ouch, sorry to hear.

Is it fairly normal to have telemetry thermocouples on brushless motors?
I was fairly sure this was going to happen. A tweaked, max-rpm silver can (stock brushed motor) in a car with lousy cooling and too tall gearing is a recipe for destruction.
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Old 02-26-2015, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
I was fairly sure this was going to happen. A tweaked, max-rpm silver can (stock brushed motor) in a car with lousy cooling and too tall gearing is a recipe for destruction.
Oh I see. At least you were expecting the outcome.
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