The Monster minishell is popular because of its looks and handling. I must admit after using one in open mini at the Mini Nats recently, they work very well. It surprised me just how well it went.
I can now honestly admit that I have raced a SWB MO5 that handled just as well as my LWB car.

I think they look class, very hard to get over here though.
Even the full sized version look good.
This is from the Fastest Mini In The World Race in 1994.

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...ldraceSi-1.jpg

hey guys looking to buy a modified brushless mini if anyone has one please let me know
thanks

Thanks for sharing it looks a little different than the original i wonder if that motor placement will improve turning left and right? It should.

this is a awesome tool! i sent a request to join the FB page under my name not (Schs2013)

This may be too early to judge, but the new motor placement, from what I can discern from the photo, seems to be the least "exciting" of the new features. By shifting a few components, you could balance the off set motor position. Centering the motor makes this near impossible now.

Also it looks like the solder tabs on many B/L motors will have to be to the front and down. The Speed Passion should fit nicely, but they run "hot", so they won't like being covered up.

From what I'm hearing about the new features, it seems as though both the front and rear chassis halves will need some reconfiguring. The best case scenario for me would be if we could mate the new rear chassis to the old front. I like the old motor position. That is, if the latest pictures we've seen are accurate.

Look a little closer. There's a whole lot of end bell jutting out. I did some measuring with my 05 and having 4.5mm less won't make much difference for wiring. I still think cooling will become an issue. The ability to run shorty packs will be the biggest change for handling. Centering the mass will be great.

In the pic on tamiya's website they are using one of the short can motors. Like the motors that were given out for free at last years tcs final. When using standard size motors the tabs should be exposed and and fan cooling should be the same as before.

same as previous M05 no?

picture looks like lightly tuned motor, which makes it look more enclosed than previous version.

As in all things, we'll just have to wait and see. I'm coming into the M05 era, with just about every negative bone in my body exposed. From what little info that's been posted about the V2, nothing has assuaged my negativity towards this whole experience.

Last time out with my M05, it was pretty "dialed" with a 23.5k Silvercan. Just accumulating funds to convert it to 21.5 B/L. It's been sitting on the bench waiting for a new esc. The transition to the M05 should be a lot easier than the transition from a TCS Silvercan to a 21.5 B/L in the M03. The M05, if you know what you're doing, is a more stable platform than the M03. It's that blasted steering rack that causes most of the negativity.

Hey guys, heading to he next TCS Race at RC Madness and can't remember the ratio for the M03? Thinking of trying to run an 18 or 19t pinion with a high rpm 21.5 motor and max timing? Still struggling to find the magic motor using a 20t pinion without overheating.

So far I've run the R1, Killshot, Reedy. Anyone try gearing down in mini with any success?

Also, it's a shame they are banning the M03 next year. I have both the m05 and M03 and can't believe the new M05v2 will make TCS any more fun than running an M03.

I tried running an 18T and also decreasing timing. Lowering the timing was the best choice for the R1... for me anyway.

Last time out was my first ever outdoor race with the M05. It was a learning experience for everyone that day as our club has only ever raced Minis indoor on carpet.
Weather wise Ireland is no Southern California or Victoria, but although it was a windy day it was dry for the most part. I know that this will not be the case every round. Can anyone advise on how you rain proof an M05 ?

My experience is mainly with the M03, but I can do you one better and show you how to snowproof your M chassis. Here's a pic of my M03 coated in snow. http://i.imgur.com/jIdUfGo.jpg

Here's what I did: 1: get yourself either some non-lubricated condoms, or some large balloons (I went the balloon route. Mine are some sort of balloon that has a rubber band on one end so that you can inflate it and then beat it around like a giant inflatable Yo-Yo.) This will seal your 2.4ghz RX unit and your ESC easily. Get some quality zip ties.

The neck of the balloon can fit around the RX unit once everything is plugged in. One end will take the antenna, the other will take the servo leads. Zip tie once near the RX unit, wrap the leads and antenna with a short bit of electrical tape, and then zip tie again over the tape (double protection.)

Cut a small hole for the servo lead from the ESC to escape the large end of the balloon. The rest of the wires (battery, etc) should exit the neck hole. Do the same with zip ties. Might want 3-4 of them on the battery\motor end. You now have an ESC that should survive in water and an RX that should too (Note: Running in winter is colder than a spring\summer rainshower, so keep a VERY close eye on ESC temps when first starting out. There's an alternate method to keeping the ESC dry, but it voids warranties)

For the servo, you can either buy a waterproof one, or build your own. To do this, get a can of PlastiDip or other rubber substance that you can apply to the outside of the servo. Pop the neck off servo, unscrew the lid, add a washer onto the servo output, and get some marine or dielectric grease to add to the neck. Coat the wires as they leave with something that's similar. Then coat the outside of the servo and tail with the rubber coating, avoiding the output. (Alternate method is to just buy cheap servos and swap them out when they die.)

For everything else, preventative maintainance would be best. When you're done with running, pull the bearings and rinse them with something that won't degrade them (I've been told WD40 or Automatic Transmission Fluid to keep them good) and all metallic parts should be dried off and buffed if you're someone who doesn't like tarnish showing. Check your diff to make sure it hasn't pulled in water. They explode if they fill with water and you don't clean em (Know this from experience)