I use Losi standard tire glue. The thin is too thin. It really doesn't matter which type of cyano, as long as it's not too thin. Spread the glue from the edge of the tread to the rim and less far on the rears. You'll have to experiment to see how much to glue.

The Mini type springs are way too stiff and can lead to traction rolling. Install the adjustable rear camber links cause the stock ones don't give any adjustability. I'm running 2 negative on one of my cars and 3 on another. Lowering the rear ride height also gives you a little more negative camber.

A tight diff on a outdoor asphalt track, does a couple of bad things. It leads to erratic and weak corner entry. It also scrubs off corner speed and doesn't allow the car to roll freely thru the corner. Going to the softer spring will help your corner speed by loading the outside wheels more.

The TA03 ball diff is one of the easiest things in the world to build. It's strictly a "no brainer". Build it per the instructions, use AW grease on the balls, loctite the diff screw and cinch it all the way down. I forgot, use AW grease on the thrust bearing.

Glue isn't applied to the actual tread of the tire?

Depends how much grip you're trying to tame. Some guys just touch the corner of the tire where the sidewall and tread meet. Some coat the whole sidewall. Around here it tends to be outer sidewall and just a little on the outer tread block.

I think the basic setup here (medium grip carpet) is to run soft front and stiff rear springs to limit weight transfer to the back and gain cornering back from the stiff/locked diffs which help with power out of the corners. The CA glue limits the sidewall rolling and bite caused by the soft front setup, but allows the tread to do it's thing. It's a balancing act.

Hint for applying CA glue on tires: Really cheap, very small paint brushes are a good tool, but you need to work fast. Bottle caps make good, disposable containers for the glue while you work.

looking for advice
im running at some wcics carpet only
im running m05 my son has m03
what Stabilizer Set should i run with soft or hard? front and back? do we even need a set on m-03?
if i was to change out the stock diff is the m-05 ball dif the one i should pick and what other parts would i need? and how bad is the stock one?
need new tires is s-grip 1016 the ones i should go with? or should i use slicks on the front?

thanks for any info

Spring rates
 

I went through all my Tamiya parts boxes, 417X, TA06 Pro, and M05.
I have several springs, can anyone tell me the rates for each or at lease help me order them softest to hardest?
M05 Springs
Alu shock included
white with red dot
white with yellow dot
white with blue dot
full red spring (ordered separate)

touring car springs
HPI blue dot 15.3
HPI silver dot 16.9
Tamiya white with blue dot
Tamiya white with yellow dot
Tamiya 53163 set
all red
all yellow
all blue

I wish Tamiya would list spring rates.
Thanks

Jim aka monkeyracing posted some of that spring data a few pages back. Try scrolling back a few pages and you should find many of your springs there.

The TC springs are usually too long to get the ride heights you're looking for.

Granpa,
Why are the s grips faster than the type A slicks?

[QUOTE=monkeyracing;12512528]The fluorescent springs are the softest of the lot, followed by the dull coloured (short touring car) kits. I believe the white with dots and the black with dots are roughly equivalent or one step harder than the short tc set.

11.86 Red
12.90 Red Short
13.33 Yellow
13.24 Yellow Short
14.08 Blue
15.27 Blue Short

Monkeyracing
Please tell me if I understand this correctly.
The full red spring I ordered separate from the alu shock kit is the 11.86 red and the white with red dot are 12.90 and are about the same as the short touring car set? (53333)
What would the benefit of having the 53333 set along with the shock included set?

[QUOTE=ncpantherfan;12531666]I think so. Is the full red spring a bit longer and brighter in colour? I suppose I could have defined things further in that the short springs are duller in colour than the longer, fluorescent coloured springs. The benefit of having the longer, fluoro springs would just be more tuning options. I've messed around with all kinds of combos and different things work on different tracks.

TeamThibault You have a PM!

Jim

It's a matter of grip. The A doesn't and the S does. Put a properly prepared set of Type A tires on a Mini then replace them with a set of properly prepared set of S-Grips and you'll find the S tire will be faster.

The new S-Grips are difficult tire to work with. The amount of cyano you use, whether you do the rear tires also are things you need to experiment with at your particular track. How you treat the tires with cyano can vary with your set up. At the Nationals this year, I had a set of SG that were too tight on my car. Dave Bird, a member of the Mini Mafia, had a car that was consistently loose. The set I gave Dave was "scrubbed in" a little differently than the set I used. They worked on his car car cause he won one of the A Mains on them. Also beat me with them. Now that's gratitude:lol::lol::lol::flaming::flaming::flaming ::lol::lol::lol:

The tires need to be scrubbed cause they are awful out of the box. If you prep the tires with cyano differently front to rear, you have a problem. It takes 1-2 runs, about 5 min. per run, to scrub the fronts. It usually takes 3 or more runs to get the rears right. I usually work with 2 pairs of fronts and 1 pair of rears as a set for this reason. As I said many times before, just a miserable set of tires compared to the old ones, but way better than the A Types.

Sorry, long answer to a short question.

The 53163 set is a full length TC spring. Much too long. The 53333 set is the short version. Even those on my M03 need the shock collars nearly all the way up to get the right ride height.

Some interesting parts being released by Tamiya in October

54529　　M-05 Setting Suspension Arm Set (Front Upper)
54530　　M-Chassis Carbon Body Mount Crossmember
54538　　M-05 Aluminum Counterweight

very cool...does the setting suspension arm set finally mean we'll get adjustable camber for the front of the M05?? :)

any pics of these parts floating around?

I just used a rear adjustable set for mine and shortened the ends and rod. Works great! Still would like to see the new stuff though.

I found pics of the front arms. They don't look adjustable, but the picture may not be accurate. There's also a 2 piece rear lower suspension plate coming along. Looks like it will offer toe in.