Granpa

I guess first we have to understand your question. By extremely hard to turn, do you mean the outdrives are hard to turn when rotated in opposite directions. Or do you mean the gear is hard to turn when holding the outdrives stationary. If it's the latter that's about right. If it's the former, that's almost impossible without breaking the long screw. Better back that screw off a bit until the gear is hard to turn and the diff halves will work smoothly with no roughness.

As to the 03 diff vs the 05 diff question, on the types of track layouts, surfaces, and size that I generally frequent, you will not be able to tell the difference. The performance will be approximately the same and you won't be able to tell by driving the car which diff it has.

Perhaps the TA03 diff might be better for the postage stamp size indoor carpet tracks cause you can get them tighter. Actually, you can almost lock them up if built correctly. Please note, I am not advocating a super tight diff for these tracks, cause I simply do not know. I have very little time on this type of track. What little time I have on this type of track, I spent 80% of it cleaning the "fuzz" off the tires. They did say that it was an unusual condition cause they had just changed the layout.

waswadener

iTrader: (72)

OK. Thank you for clarifying.

Do the PN 50746 shocks work well? Are they durable (as in not fragile in a crash)? Do their seals seem to hold for a reasonable time?

Wondering because although I want to keep the car TCS legal, if the PN 50746 shocks are junk, I'll go with after-market aluminum shocks for the same cost as these Tamiya plastic shocks.

Granpa

[QUOTE=waswadener;12059925]OK. Thank you for clarifying.

Do the PN 50746 shocks work well? Are they durable (as in not fragile in a crash)? Do their seals seem to hold for a reasonable time?

Wondering because although I want to keep the car TCS legal, if the PN 50746 shocks are junk, I'll go with after-market aluminum shocks for the same cost as these Tamiya plastic shocks.[/QUOTE

They work fine, but they are still plastic. Since they are, they are more prone to problems than the aluminum units. As to the after market units, yes they are less costly than the Tamiya ones. If you ever decide to run a TCS event, you'll have to replace them.

If you're going to use aluminum bodied shocks, why not just go to the Tamiya units to begin with. They are of better quality and will outlast your Mini. The #54000 shocks are about $55 and are worth the extra $$$$. They have a new set that's around $90, but having never seen a set, will not comment. My own personal favorite are the TC units #42102.

The ones on my best M03L are TRF shocks that were originally on the EVO 1. They are close to 15 years old and still work great. This car has an interesting history cause it's my first Mini that I bought used with a for $100. It was fully upgraded for it's time. Won a bunch of races with it, lost many, many more. In it's time it's been a SWB and a LWB. It's gone thru 4 or 5 front chassis, 2or 3 rear chassis, 3 esc of which one died and the other was upgraded, and it's on it's 2nd JR servo. Still the same TRF shocks, rebuilt many times, that were fitted to the car soon after being purchased.

Sorry, just an old guy telling stories. Not old guy stories tho, cause they are truthful.

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

The 54000 shocks are very worth it if you're running TCS. Like GP said, they'll outlast your car. I've got an ancient set on my main car now that have been around since dirt was just an idea. Just a rebuild every few years (?) and you'll never have to worry about them. Keep them clean. That's key.

If your running a little less frequently, the super mini CVA dampers will do fine, but if you're going for the current level of hyper competitiveness, get the good stuff.

Outside of that...Tamiya's new "special edition" dampers are an insulting rip-off and the aftermarket dampers, especially 3Racing's are really quite good (and mostly interchangeable with Tamiya rebuild kits.)

zambo

Hi, i'm buying some tamiya trf 54000 shocks. They come with blue, yellow and red springs. The blue and yellow are in white color and seems shorter that the red one. Should i also need to buy the 53333 item short springs set? Or those short springs are the same includes in the trf shocks?

bribtb

iTrader: (11)

Granpa, so how do you measure coopers droop? Is it just below where it sags?


Brian

Granpa

Basically the same spring tension. I purchased two #54000 sets and the springs that came in my examples were white and color coded with a small colored dot. The springs in the #53333 set, which I use almost exclusively now, are a bit longer and much softer. They are called a short spring set cause they were made for TC. Because they are longer, you'll find the shock collars stay more to the top of the shock instead of screwed halfway down like you do with the shorter Mini springs. The regular TC springs with the equivalent spring rates is the # 53163 and can be used on the front when you need more ride height.

Brian, I don't measure droop on a Mini. It is a difficult and, frankly, inaccurate and meaningless project. I measure the shock length which is more accurate and so much easier to do. Short shocks equals less droop, longer shocks more droop. Also, you will rarely have to lengthen a front shock, except when you want to induce more roll on corner entry and mid corner.


Also, while I'm here, Steve from R1 Wurks was at the track today with his latest fan. It's a 30mm unit, a little taller than the other fans on the market, but the big difference is, this unit pumps some air. I bought 3 on the spot and Chuck Leslie, 3rd at last years Nats, bought 6. Rod Canare, a 2 time TCS TC Japan trip winner, tested a unit and said it brought his motor temps down about 20 degrees in his TC. I only mentioned the above 2 guys cause they have the racing credos, that yours truly doesn't. Also, it is possible to win 2 Japan trips cause they changed the rules last season.

The R1 cvds are a quality unit. Almost all the guys here use them in practice and switch them out for the Tamiya units for a TCS race. Gotta be legal you know. Better and $5 to 10 less costly. I just got another set for my new M03M so they must be back in stock at the shops or direct from R1 Wurks.

tormentus

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tormentus

Hey Guys,

Come check out whats happening at www.mini-nats.com Yes the site is all about Mini Nationals Competition happening this coming week end!

redbarton

iTrader: (3)

I just picked up a Carson 914 body for my M05. I need some offset wheels for it. I can't use the HPI MX60 wheels since they don't meet our class rules. Does someone else make 6mm offset wheels in the true Mini size? I can't seem to find any. Thanks in advance for any help!

Jordan Anderson

iTrader: (6)

What's the best diff / lube to use in the M06?

Is the TA03 ball diff recommended for the M06 or the 3racing gear diff with a very light oil?

Thoughts?

axle182

iTrader: (18)

Between the two, 3 racing gear diff with light oil, although id suggest running the stock gear diff, as the upgrade really isnt worth it, unless you destroyed your stock one. Ball diff isnt too good in the 06.

Jordan Anderson

iTrader: (6)

Do you use the anti-wear grease as per the manual in the stock gear diff or something else to make it nice and loose for the rwd chassis?

patorz31

I put light bearing oil in mine. On of the guys at my club has his dialed and told me to try it, makes a huge difference in the car. Mine is so loose the 2200KV ORCA motor we use doesn't spin we you turn a wheel.

axle182

iTrader: (18)

No its too sticky, especially on the first couple of runs. Best to either use a very light amount of light oil, or silicone spray. Or easiest way, run them dry. They last about the same amount of time ive found. If your diffing out like crazy and burning up the diff, your not setup or driving it properly.