I agree..different lines and driving strategies together..super fun.

Just sharing, short video on rwd vs fwd. Always fun to have a 10 feet lead whenever the horn sounds.

+ YouTube Video

The M06 Miata is driven by my 12 year old daughter. I let my daughter do the hard work of driving a tail happy prone to spinout car. :D

From what I've seen, the factors most relevant are driver, chassis, setup, surface and rules.

Driver - Always number one. Doesn't matter what chassis, usually.
Chassis - FWD, particularly M03s are easy to setup and adaptable. 05s are much more tunable, very fast, but more finicky. The 06 can and will compete, but is even more dependent on all factors, especially rules.
Setup - You know the drill.
Surface - As Granpa noted, the 06 is much friendlier on carpet than anywhere else. FWD don't seem to care.
Rules - The biggest one being open or locked up diffs. The 06 was the hot ticket for our 2011/2012 season, but when we switched rules for 2012/13 to allow locked diffs, it all but disappeared. Dozens of 06s became available and 03s are the car to have.

The track here at Tamiya has changed quite a bit since you were last here. If memory serves me correctly that was in 2010. The track has much less grip than before and has developed a couple of bumps and slick spots that can really bite you.

The M06 on the spec tire is almost undriveable. Even Brandon K couldn't get his M06 to work. For those who don't know Brandon, he won Mini at the Nats in 2010 and 2011. What was sad was that both times, he was unable to go on the trip to Japan due to some personal problems.

But what really matters is having fun!

I ran an M03 for a couple of years. But even though I was competitive, I never enjoyed running it. I ended up converting it to correct wheel drive (rear). Then it was fun to drive. :D

Then last year I ended up with a free M05. I don't know what the difference is really, but I actually enjoyed running that car.

Now that I have the M06, Mini may be my favorite class. I'm never going to be in the top ranks of Mini drivers, but it doesn't matter if I'm having fun. :nod:

Jim, you've been listening to a local irritant too much! :lol: Sorry dude, but its just not true. Its been covered many times in our local threads, but I'll put a little info here. I can build a TA03 diff anywhere from full diff action to almost fully locked, just by adjusting the tension on the nut and replacing or squashing the coned washers. So whatever diff is allowed, it was NEVER the issue, because the TCS approved diff can be built to give a similar diff action as any diff on the market. I have won many races with the TA03 diff, and they are still very competitive today, Ivan usually runs one.

The reason behind the diff change locally was because the TA03 diff does change, does need constant maintenance, and can easily break if you tighten it too much. Allowing the cheaper options in, locally, only made sense. Especially considering we had no part in the TCS, and lets not forget its one less teching headache, which is a big part of why the diff change has been so successful. People now build a diff, usually the 3 racing gear diff, build it once and enjoy mini racing for what it is. No more pulling diffs between rounds (which i used to be quite good at! lol). Its WAY more user friendly now.

Locally, other factors are the reason the 06 is disappearing. The faster and veteran guys are letting new guys know they are much harder to drive, due to their design, and most 06 drivers have moved over to the FWD cars which is a good thing. Also the hobbyshops have been made aware of this, and are stocking less RWD on the shelfs. FWD are much easier to drive in battle also, one touch to the back of a RWD and your going the wrong way, no matter what surface you run on. Not so with the FWD, you can have a wild race, running wheel to wheel and still make it ok.

The generous information passed on, together with the fact that back then, the 06 was still a relatively new car in the mini market, meant that people were willing to try them, THAT is the reason we see less on the track today, compared to previous seasons. To blame it all on the diff is misguided. Hell, go back far enough and we had 3-4 M04s at the top of every round of the Wcics series. I can remember Rod Littau smoking us constantly with his 04. They were even harder to drive consistent. Cant blame their demise on the diff ;)

Sure I can. Also, both you guys are irritating. Just like me!

I've argued both sides of this issue. I was very much in favour of opening diff rules last year and on the opposite side this year. My feeling is, no matter how many other logical or illogical points are made, that if the 06 was still able to easily compete in the current environment, it would. Yes, it can be as quick, but it takes more effort and a better driver to do so.

Y'know, I've never been able to understand why people vilified the 04 so much. I never found it hard to drive. When I drove mine, it was fast and I was regularly labelled a cheater. Good car!

Its part of the fun lol ;)

Can you pinpoint the cause to the diff and the diff only? I dont feel you can, for the reasons previously posted, plus many many more variables. So to blame the diff for the 06, is a massive stretch. There is simply too many factors at play. Open diff is cheaper, thats one very good reason to enjoy it ;)

In a way. I reckon another way to put it is that the recent unpopularity of the M06 chassis is to a symptom caused by adopting more liberal diff rules, combined with an underlying condition: The FWD chassis are generally easier to set up and as a result, more fun to drive.

If you get to spend time just driving, rather than chasing setup as conditions change (Read HPRT's posts on this subject. He's a proponent of open diffs.) you're bound to have a better time and want to drive one, rather than the other.

Anyway, come racing May 4th, if you're in town. My M03 is dialed and I'm itching to get in your way. :p

Hi all,

I'm looking for some help with my M03R. I have the aluminum front up-rights, and I broke a side carrier that screws down the upright. A friend of mine had a ton of M parts, however, the aluminum up right is too small and doesn't fit in the carrier like it did the one that broke off. I'm also having a difficult time trying to find either this parts tree, or a spare tree on ebay.

Do you know anywhere I can find a tree from an R kit?

Thanks,
Vince

Just out of curiosity, I was wondering how many $$$$$ people have invested in their Minis. I'm putting together a new "race" car and was amazed how much of an investment this car required. This is a partial list of the components in my "new" car and the approximate pricing.

Kit $130
Tires and wheels $35
Aluminum hubs front & rear $75
Ball diff $30
Bearings $55 or $85 depending on whether ceramic bearings are used in the tranny.
JR servo $140
Servo saver $6
TRF sedan shocks $65
KO esc $180
KO receiver $70
Roll bars $10
CVDs $30
Hardened outdrives $10
Silvercan motor $17 motor in kit was not TCS legal motor
Misc $ ??????

The total was well over $650. Admittedly, nothing but the absolute best components were used regardless of price. This was going to be my "killer" mini and so far it's killing my pocket book.

I have a feeling that many would be shocked if they started adding up their investment.

That's the idea with the upgrades.

But you can improve on it. You can spend 200$ easily on a good servo alone.

And that is cheap anyway. A TC ready to race is pushing 2k$

I'll take a chance you're talking about the steering knuckles.

Did you build the kit yourself? Can you remember if the upright had two spacers (one at the bottom and one at the top)? I seem to remember an upgrade alloy steering knuckle set that came with these spacers to adjust suspension arm position. I guess yours might be like that and you lost the spacers in the crash. If that is the case, you just need to buy the Tamiya (or other) spacer/bushing sets.

Yes I lost the spacers in the crash, however the hole the spacer goes through is where it cracked. I still have my manual, it seems like the parts I need are from the F tree. It the part that has the CV go through it, into the knuckle and has two screws on top and bottom that broke. But all the other F tree's parts seem to be too big for this aluminum knuckle.

you forgot the metal motor mount and cooling bars!
Also the alum. steering rod.
Add $50 more!:D