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-   -   Tamiya mini cooper (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/20068-tamiya-mini-cooper.html)

Core Creations 01-13-2013 10:53 AM


Originally Posted by Granpa (Post 11670523)
This may have been posted before, but has anyone tried a spool???? What are the driving characteristics and how durable are they?????

When you "stuff" a gear diff, how tightly do you pack it???? I've always just shimmed mine and my one attempt to "stuff" a gear diff was a disaster. Took me hours to clean it all up. What do you use?????

Who has the best oil filled gear diff???? Presently I have the SpecR unit sitting on my bench, but really have some misgivings about how fragile the gears look. It still hasn't seen the inside of my Outlaw Mini.

Outlaw Mini. Definition. One that does not comply with TCS Rules.

I have tried locked and everywhere in between. It tends to push more off power, but pulls very hard on power. I've since gone to medium tight diff and like it better. You can shoe goo the diff to seal it. My driving has evolved over the last couple years towards less point and shoot and a more flowing corner speed style. My m05 diff has been rock solid so I am going to play more on loosening it up a bit more.

robindog 01-13-2013 11:10 AM


Originally Posted by k_bojar (Post 11670119)
what kind of servo saver are you using?? the kit one would cause some of what you're talking about...put upgrading to a kimborough or the Tamiya hi-torque will help minimize some of the centering issue

I have a Kimbrough high torque saver on one M05. My problem is play in the (unshimmed) stock steering parts, not a weak saver. I don't think it affects performance as much as my poor driving does...

Alan

sidecarphil1 01-13-2013 01:14 PM


Originally Posted by robindog (Post 11670857)
I have a Kimbrough high torque saver on one M05. My problem is play in the (unshimmed) stock steering parts, not a weak saver. I don't think it affects performance as much as my poor driving does...

Alan

I replaced all the stock items with the 3racing steering system and a custom made carbon support for between the steering system works great

Granpa 01-13-2013 01:35 PM


Originally Posted by robindog (Post 11670047)
I've noticed on the M05 that the steering is sloppy enough that it doesn't fully recenter after turning in either direction. Tis is a bit annoying when you are trying to center the servo, but doesn't seem to be a problem when driving. Just don't let go of the wheel and expect it to drive straight: steer it there, instead.

I did also have a problem with one of the bell cranks bending and causing the steering to bind. In my case, it prevented full steering travel, and caused the steering to fail to recenter when it was far off center.

Alan

If you have to drive your car down the straight, you have a problem in the steering mechanism of your car. Your Mini should, if you have it pointed in the right direction, require minimal steering inputs.


Originally Posted by robindog (Post 11670857)
I have a Kimbrough high torque saver on one M05. My problem is play in the (unshimmed) stock steering parts, not a weak saver. I don't think it affects performance as much as my poor driving does...

Alan

True, bad driving is always a stumbling block, but is not necessarily as much of a problem as some believe. I am a good example of this. Being 77 years old, with poor distance vision, and frequently seeing double, you really would expect me to be on the bottom rung of the race results. Over the years, however, I've won a number of races and still remain fairly competitive. This should not be true, but I've always had one of the fastest Minis at a race. Many so called bad drivers are just driving a piece of "crap". A really good car with a strong motor can often times make you look a lot better than you are.

I am going to suggest that you lose the stock steering linkages and replace it with one of the aluminum ones. If you insist on staying with the stock linkages, do not shim it. The tighter it is, the easier it will bend. Even the slightest bend in one of the bell cranks will make the steering go crazy. It's almost always the right bell crank.

Play or slop in the steering is hardly ever a major problem in a Mini, but then, I've never seen how much play you have in your steering.

robindog 01-13-2013 03:25 PM


Originally Posted by Granpa (Post 11671321)
It's almost always the right bell crank.

Play or slop in the steering is hardly ever a major problem in a Mini, but then, I've never seen how much play you have in your steering.

Yes, it was my right link that bent.

I want to clarify: I don't have a problem with the play in the steering... I just have play in my steering. I was only trying to convey to someone else that if they just have a little play in their steering, maybe it isn't a problem.

Alan

monkeyracing 01-13-2013 05:33 PM

I've been experimenting with the floppy tires. Strapping them with a strip of duct tape (2cm x 19cm) seems to work pretty well at creating a more solid base. They sure do push out on the sides though, as the sidewalls are weaker than the foams. Haven't tried using CA on the inside of the sidewalls yet. Any advice on how to do that without gluing my hand to my glasses/workbench/cat?

BTW: Haven't done any road testing at this point. So this may still turn out badly.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

TonyD. 01-13-2013 07:35 PM

Had a great day of on road racing with the M05. I ran a 20 lap race with the fastes time I have ever ran a hot lp at 13.177. getting faster just need to keep tuningI'll get there.

Granpa 01-14-2013 07:25 AM

Just lay the tire on the workbench and squeeze on the inside sidewall. You may have to use something to smear it to the right places. An allen wrench works well for this-----you know, the ones that came in the kit that you never used, but didn't throw away either.

Thin tire glue doesn't work well, but the regular, which is much thicker does. Any thick cyano should work. Using a Zip kicker might not be a good idea cause it does make the cyano very brittle. Just waiting a few minutes for the glue to set on one side so you can do the other is just common sense.

orcadigital 01-15-2013 05:26 AM

Just a weekend update.

I changed the sways and springs to yellow front, blue rear, stif rear bar soft front. I reset ride height with the back a little lower then the front, and the front arms at level. I also had too much front camber (3*) and have brought that down to 1*.

Traction roll virtually went away. The issue now seems to be heat in the rear tires. After 5-6 min they warm up enough to pick up all kinds of garbage on the track, which makes the back end really squirrely the rest of the run. On a TC, collection garbage on the tires either meant you were spending way too much time off line, and usually that your setup was off and you were overworking the tires. Normally I would consider less rear toe, but only at 2* now. I am not sure if I should try less toe on the rear or look somewhere else.

thetweeker 01-15-2013 05:27 AM

When mounting new tires, do most glue the foam inserts to the tire or not ?

OnRDPassion 01-16-2013 06:59 AM

So I have got the itch for possibly getting a mini. Since there are so many different versions of this car, which one seems to be the one majority of people are running? M05 or M06?

The class looks super fun and I just got a Tamiya 417 so I am looking to get a second class going that will be fun so I am not sitting around the majority of the day.

OnRDPassion 01-16-2013 06:59 AM

Double post

marcos graveyar 01-16-2013 07:22 AM


Originally Posted by thetweeker (Post 11679264)
When mounting new tires, do most glue the foam inserts to the tire or not ?

Not.

marcos graveyar 01-16-2013 07:25 AM


Originally Posted by OnRDPassion (Post 11684167)
So I have got the itch for possibly getting a mini. Since there are so many different versions of this car, which one seems to be the one majority of people are running? M05 or M06?

The class looks super fun and I just got a Tamiya 417 so I am looking to get a second class going that will be fun so I am not sitting around the majority of the day.

M05's far outnumber M06's at my club. M05's tend to be more forgiving during a race when there is contact.

fx35rc 01-16-2013 07:37 AM


Originally Posted by OnRDPassion (Post 11684167)
So I have got the itch for possibly getting a mini. Since there are so many different versions of this car, which one seems to be the one majority of people are running? M05 or M06?

The class looks super fun and I just got a Tamiya 417 so I am looking to get a second class going that will be fun so I am not sitting around the majority of the day.

Get the M05. Mini class are the funnest. Also mini guys are helpful and fun to be around with at tamiya track


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