rccartips

iTrader: (3)

Hi Granpa,

Happy New Year!

I think we are also considering the effect of droop when the car is leaning in a corner. And how more/less droop affects the inside tire when leaning.

So is it true, silvercan for TCS 2013 in Mini? Your New Year Wish come true! hehehe.

Radi0Flyer

Any love for the M01/02 cars? I got this car in a trade a few years ago and it was set up RWD with the beat up Mini body. I converted it to FWD.





Now am looking to get a new body. The ones I am finding say it will fit M03 cars but they don't mention the older models. I would think they are the same but I figured I would ask to make sure. Mostly worried about wheelbase differences.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGM13&P=7

Is there somewhere that sells this body (or suitable replacement) with the chrome trim pieces? I have some of the pieces but not all and the ones I have are pretty rough.










Sean

Granpa

I'll bow to your superior knowledge of all aspects of droop adjustments. I only use it to control weight transfer. Everything I do is based on putting the weight where I want it and when I want it. As you pointed out my thinking may be rudimentary, but so far so good.

Mister Pink

iTrader: (4)

Radi0Flyer

I have a few M01/M02s and they both use any Tamiya 210mm, 225mm 239mm bodies. yours is set up for the 210mm body. With the right chassis extension bits you could run any wheelbase body. My M01 has the exact mini body your inquiring about. body posts holes are also a direct fit.



''Now am looking to get a new body. The ones I am finding say it will fit M03 cars but they don't mention the older models. I would think they are the same but I figured I would ask to make sure. Mostly worried about wheelbase differences.''

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGM13&P=7

Granpa

Yeah, you're right, Joel. But the subject under discussion was the effect of droop adjustments on acceleration. This started out cause someone felt that increasing droop would keep the front wheels of the car on the track during acceleration.

Certainly, droop adjustments could in theory affect side to side weight transfer,
but only if you've restricted it so much that you have almost none. Frankly, I've never touched the droop screws to adjust side to side weight transfer. Also, since I never run shocks in a Mini shorter than 56.5mm, I get plenty of suspension travel, so that we do this with springs, roll bars, etc.

TCS in the USA for Mini is Silvercan, but it's rpm limited so no motor magic here. At the Nats we have to install the motors in tech and remove them in tech. We don't use our own motors, so motors never leave tech. Absolutely no motor shenanigans here.

Granpa

Thas right!!! Also puts more weight on the front wheels on corner entry for more steering. The stiffer rear springs also seem to plant the back end of my Minis a little better. Don't really know why, but it works for me.

Been working on a new set up for slick tracks that uses the same spring rate all around that was working well. Did have to run the rear a little higher to get the turn in right.

caltek1

iTrader: (38)

I have a MO1 with all of the hop up GPM parts that were released laying about somewhere at home. I will have to find it and set about rebuilding it. I was fortunate enough on a visit to Thailand to find two new packets of the front and rear short chassis halves, which I have added to my collection and the Tamiya racing steering set.

The GPM parts at the time were expensive but not sure if they were really worth it. I also a have a speed gear set made by HPI for the car.

I really must see if I can find these items. This was my first RC car and I learnt heaps from owning the car, but never did get it to work very well when I started racing. I quickly purchased a MO3 and never looked back.

Thanks for the memories.

Calvin.

caltek1

iTrader: (38)

Granpa,

That is how mini's are setup in Thailand also. Normally run 350 weight oil and red fluro spring up front and either yellow or blue on the rear. Ride height approx 2-3mm. The tracks are high grip and very smooth. Cars are allowed to be highly modified to take 6000 size square batteries.

I have found that setup works at some tracks but not all and I usually run TRF short white or blue up front and fluro red or yellow on the rear. Remembering I am running the MO5L chassis with approx 35 gms of weight up front.

I have found that standing up the front shocks on the MO5 does make a big difference in handling of the car and transition between laid over and stood up when testing at a new track.

I am not even entering the droop debate. I am happy with how my cars works and that is all that counts with me. I have found putting my setup and tyres on another persons mini does not necessarily make the car work for them and there driving technique.

I have certainly found driving a mini is way different to driving any other RC car.

My two bobs worth.

BTW,

Happy New Year to you,

Regards,

Calvin.

Granpa

Happy New year to you also, Calvin and best of luck in the coming racing season. Sorry, I forgot you're probably right in the middle of yours.

You're probably wise to stay out of the droop debate cause I'm getting a little frustrated. What's so hard to understand about Minis do not work the same way as TCs?????? The nose of the Mini does not rise on acceleration except for the small amount you may get from momentum or weight transfer. If the nose comes up, it unloads the front tires and you get wheel spin. Even the rotation of the wheels has a tendency to pull the nose down.

Maybe I'm missing something here, but how does an adjustment that is primarily used to get weight to the other end of the car useful in maintaining grip to end of the car you're unloading?????? It seems to me that it would be better to limit the amount of downward suspension travel (less droop) than to allow more suspension travel.

Perhaps the problem in communication is this. When measuring droop with a droop gauge, the smaller number was more droop and the larger number was less. Still have one of those things, but never use it now.

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

This has been a great few pages of discussion. I love suspension stuff and a lot of what's being said confirms some ideas I've had and have been working with. My setup this year has primarily been to stick with really light oil, harder springs on the rear/lighter on the front, with the rear slightly higher than the front. Sometimes I've been using a sway bar on the rear as well, in an attempt to keep the diagonally opposite front wheel planted through corners. I'm running S grips on all 4 corners with a little CA on the fronts.

It all seems to work very well. Too bad I can't drive worth a damn!

Radi0Flyer

Thanks Mister.



Sean

SuperMario

Hi all,

I hope you don't mind the small sidestep in this forum.
Please feel free to PM me your replies if we would like to keep this thread 'clean'.

I understood the Top Mini Sabre, would be noisy, but that;'s putting it really mild.
Are there any solutions or tricks to bring the racket down PLEASE?
Would swapping the middle gear with M03 one help?

Do all diffs/spools for the M05 fit this car?

Thanks for the help.


BTW, it does run REALLY NICE


Kind regards,
Mario

Mister Pink

iTrader: (4)

I don't have all your answers, but I can tell you this.I had to install TOP gears into my M05 mini once, it was so noisy I swear I forgot to install the bearings. I took it all apart to check , and all was good bearings were fine as were the teeth.Put it all back together and raced it. eveyone on the stand Kept telling me I had teeth missing even though they were fine.
once I finally got some Tamiya gears and installed them my M05 was nice and quiet.Top gears are just noisy I guess. Oh by the way the Top gears use a smaller outside diameter bearing then the Tamiya gears, no biggie just need different bearings

drover

Hi to all have i nice year.
I want to ask you if you know the part numbers,for A110 alpine wheels and abarth 1000 TCR Berlin Corsa Wheels.

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Alpine - 50685
Abarth - 50663 or 19335209