You've got two tyre diameters on standard Tamiya Mini sized wheels 55D and 60D (in mm).

HPI do some "inch-up" style rims for the Cup Racer (they call them MX60) and I think Ride do some inch-ups wheels and tyres as well. These aren't compatible with the standard Tamiya wheels.

The larger wheels have a larger rollout which means that they are faster on the straights in fixed-gearing classes. But there are handling effects as well, which I personally have no experience of working with.

Locally we use the Sweep pre-mounts everywhere, indoors and out. Always 25s on the rear and usually 33s on the front. They are a 55D tyre, but local rules mean that 60D tyres don't get a straight-line speed advantage.

There are lots and lots of other tyres out there though.

PS be wary of bertrandsv87's advice. He has mostly strange ideas (along with a handful of good ones) and it is hard to tell whether he is a troll or a lunatic. Personally speaking I wouldn't touch the gears with anything.

what all options are there from tamiya for tires?
also looking for more info on wether a m06 or m05 have avantages in different types of racing ie: carpet or pavment.

i assume both use almost all the same hop ups and spares. but is there any types of things one shouldnt build a car with out?

sorry i am planning on running a couple of tcs races this year. i am not really a rooky to racing or anything by any means i have been on a break for a while for own reasons and a broken neck. now its time to get back to it

This is the best thing I'll read all day. Sosidge, you are the KING!

Big class of Minis and F1's video.

+ YouTube Video

I'm guessing it would be unwise assume that. I don't think there's very much overlap of parts between the M05 and the M06.

Actually...they crossover completely in the drive train, axles and uprights. They also share lower suspension and complete steering assemblies...front body posts,dampers. Yup.

Since you're planning on running TCS, you need to find out what is and isn't allowed where you are. It looks like you need to look at Canadian TCs rules. For North America (US and finals).

Tamiya tires are:

• Type A slicks
• S Grip Radials
• M Grip Radials
• Kit Radials
• Several Premounts listed in the TCS rules

M06 vs. M05:


The M06 will come out of the corners better than the M05 because of less wheelspin (RWD vs. FWD) ONLY if the surface you are running on has enough grip. Otherwise, the M06 will swap ends around. The M06 doesn't do well if you're into "rubbing is racing". The M05 can drive away from bumping with other cars. Overall the M05 is easier to setup and drive.


As for spares and hopups read monkeyracing's reply. The motor plates though are different between the two.

It's funny but this issue keeps coming up at our 2 local clubs. They use different carpets but I still believe the M06 is faster starting from a full stop and getting out of the corners faster based on higher grip surfaces and it does well at both our clubs. However, for our 7 race regional series on 7 different carpet surfaces the M06 does not seem to fair well espencially during the 'rubbing is racing' situations.

I personally like the M03. Then again, there is not rhyme or reason why my M03 does so well in races cause it defies all setup rules. :weird:

Ivan

Ivan, do I have to spell it out for you why your M03 does so well? :D

:nod: It's the DRIVER :nod:

I probably get flamed for this but maybe the racers at your 2 local clubs have more racing etiquette and there's less "rubbing" so the M06 can do well there.

.....Flame suit on......

Question about the M05s.. I've stripped two Manta Ray ball diffs this season and we still have a few more races, should I go back to the gear diff, or is there something better out there?

Thanks..

How have you stripped the ball diff? Is it just plain wear on the balls and plates or is something else going on. How tight do you crank it down? The Manta Ray diff should be at least as tough as the TA03. They're the same diff, but the Manta Ray is just bulkier.

If you're not running TCS rules, then you could try the 3Racing oil filled gear diff with some 300,000+ wt silicone in it. You could run a locked diff too, if your club allows.

If you're stripping the splines in the outdrive holes/outdrives, make sure there is an oring in each cup to keep them from sliding out. But also make sure the dogbones don't bind up when the oring is in.
You can use the black oring, pink foam thing that comes with the M05 ball diff or just cut a thin slice of nitro fuel tubing.

Note: Fuel tubing not allowed in TCS

Anyone changed the Ackermann steering setting on m05 ?

I got 3racing steering rank and knuckles. im on one hole front on steering rank, with back hole on knuckles.

What setting do you recommond?

Too kind Sydewynder, but I still need a lot more work on that. We finished a few weeks ago our WCICS races and it’s two years in a row leading the last Mini Championship deciding race and then losing it with less than a minute to go cause I couldn’t defend against a faster car I may finally learn my lesion…..nah, I’m too cheap and lazy to change. We had a good turn out with almost 40 Mini’s. There’s video of the race but hasn’t been posted yet…..if only you can hear the ruffling of my flag going down the straight. Love it! :nod:

Where are you located? If you ever come by our neck of the woods, our local club races usually have pretty good turnouts. I really think Mini is a good way for beginners to start their RC racing experience, intermediate guys like myself to have a “fun” class and also advance drivers to show us how much more we have to learn!

No, there are theatrics at our local clubs too where grown men whine and pout like little children when they think they got "hacked" or breakdown. Quite entertaining actually. :lol:

Ivan