Tamiya M-Grips work best on our carpet, but we are restricted to radial tyres.

What are you using as your base settings for the car ?

My suggestion would be S grips all around. Big question, are you using traction compound?? If so, we glue the outside 1mm of the tread (or sometimes just off the tread but the car will start to lift on fast corners) and use a decent amount of traction compound. Cover the rear in compound. Also we run 300k plus oil in the gear, and we dont have a push problem.

Im guessing your running no compound, in that case, id try different tires front to back. A pair of M and S grips in your case would serve you well. Tire warmers might possibly work also. But if your allow traction compound, pour it on and keep your tires clean. Dont forget the glue or else you will flip on any quick corner. mine usually runs the fast turns on 2 or 3 wheels, but with a tight diff, i dont loose any time, but have wicked grip.

Interesting, possibly-related-to-the-future-of-m-chassis-news: A123 Systems (makers of LiFePo4 batteries) has filed for Chapter 11 Bankruptcy Protection. Will they survive? Will Tamiya come to their senses and stop building cars based around their batteries? Stay tuned!

Also, thought I'd mess with the suspension geometry on my M04 a little. Using the M06 rear lower ball stud/hinge pins on all 4 corners, I Moved the lower damper mounts out and down. This required using longer ball cups on the bottom of the dampers. (touring car dampers would fit, too) I recently drove a friend's M03 with this modification and it was incredibly smooth and stable. Let's see if it does me any favours.

Special bonus in pic #3!

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps1788acc4.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...psa5cf7b06.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...psd80b7d69.jpg

i believe its been done before on an m05, dont think it worked to well if memory serves correct. but im sure there would be one situation where it might you never know?

oh and a mighty fine sticker you have there, had come across a bunch the other day that i forgot i had 8-P

So, you'll probably like this photo as well.

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...psae9ae19c.jpg

ah yes!

were you lucky enough to get a gold set........:D found these under a bunch of junk in by bedroom :lol:



http://imageshack.us/a/img856/9907/img0632d.jpg

Nope. Black and white. Would the gold ones get me into the Tamiya factory, where Oompa Loompas create mini treats while singing songs about how terrible a person I am?

Thanks for the info, But wouldnt 300k oil in the front diff make it push more???

really depends on how the chassis is setup, and how full you fill the diff. as if you put 300k in and dont fill it correctly it will feel like 100k

No. 300 000 is a good weight oil and puts less wear on tbe outdrives.

You're weird Jim...

but I like that...

Pushing the shocks more out on the arm will in theory make them harder, because the wheel makes less lever. And if they get more angle in relation to the arm (witch happens if you keep the top mounting point the same) it will make them softer (so you'l be back to the same), and as the arms compress and make an angle closer to 90 they will get a more direct action. More angle is like progressive springs, that's good for traction.

There was a topic about this somewhere else as well because of the new mounting points on the new hop-up m-06 parts.

One thing i have to ask you: you run with out rear bumper or rear brace (like m-03) holding the bottom of the gearbox. Doesn't this make it flex or prone to crack the case on crash? I never took it out, always though it had a structural purpose.

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/pa...38425_002m.jpg

Does anyone know if the dimentions of these? Would they fit the M04 in front?

Good points. I've found overall that I like more direct, rather than progressive action from the shocks/springs. It's a little weird that I decided to move the front dampers even more outboard than stock, but somehow, with the added length and the carbon plate at the top, they've ended up in a slightly more upright position. I've moved the top of the rear dampers one notch further inboard to gain back a little progressiveness. I'm not sure what else my friend did to his car to make it as smooth as it was with this setup. I know he's taken a lot of slop out of it by various means, but that usually adds twitchiness to a mini. Perhaps the longer damper length has something to do with it? There must be some reason Tamiya decided to break from M chassis tradition with the rear on the M06 and eventually the M06R. I guess we'll see.

I've been spending a bunch of time with the RC Car Setup Workbench app by Martin Crisp. I haven't read all of it yet, but I'm starting to grasp more of the basics. I have trouble with the concept of reverse/negative Ackermann, though. Weird!

Funny! I've only just noticed that because you pointed it out. I haven't noticed any difference. I suppose, if anything, it might make the rear of the car flex a little more or make it "softer". Guess I'd better put that on there. As for crashing: I crash into things head on. A lot. That's just my style.

ok I got the car to work well, here is what i did
M05 Pro
3orings on the shock shaft, 60weight front, 40 rear, 3 hole pistons
red springs up front, yellow rear.
1.5-2 deg toe out
long wheel base
gear diff with 300k
full compound rear
1/4 compound front
this is a silver car run on high traction carpet with the kit tires, i dont know what they are but they came in the box lol