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Tamiya mini cooper

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Old 12-17-2011, 02:54 PM
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Those caps are still designed for the battery side of the ESC, though. I'm just going to hook up this 4700uf, 10v cap to my motor to see what happens.

The way I see it is that a cap is like a spring, but for voltage. As the car slows approaching a corner, for example, energy gets put in (compression) and at some point the cap has to release the voltage (decompression). I'm mainly concerned about whether or not it's controlled or if the car just launch on me.

Jim
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Old 12-17-2011, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
Those caps are still designed for the battery side of the ESC, though. I'm just going to hook up this 4700uf, 10v cap to my motor to see what happens.

The way I see it is that a cap is like a spring, but for voltage. As the car slows approaching a corner, for example, energy gets put in (compression) and at some point the cap has to release the voltage (decompression). I'm mainly concerned about whether or not it's controlled or if the car just launch on me.

Jim
Motor side capacitor will just clean up motor noise.

Better to hook up on battery side.
Keeps battery voltage from dropping off from high amp spikes.
Voltage is motor speed.
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Old 12-17-2011, 10:06 PM
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Off topic, but thought all Mini enthusiasts would be interested in this cause it addresses a weak point in all Minis. Steve from R1 Wurks brought by some CVD units that were incredible. Workmanship is to his usual high standard and a lot of thought has been given to address the weak points in the Tamiya units. I used to buy 3 or 4 of them at a time cause the universals soon developed slop and the rebuildable ones used to oblong the pin holes very quickly or the blasted pins worked loose and chewed up my front uprights.

They are machined from a spring steel type material, so are much harder than the Tamiya ones. The axles are hollow for lightness. The cross pin has 2 set screws and the pin itself is slightly smaller in diameter where the the set screw seats so that if the screw loosens a bit, it won't work loose and chew up your front uprights. The yoke itself is thicker so it shouldn't develop slop nearly as quickly as the Tamiya units plus it is made from a harder steel. The axles themselves are slightly longer so you can run spacers to widen the tread and still have enough thread for the wheel retainer nylocks. I have a set of the prototype units and will see if I can break them tomorrow. Just from examining them, they should hold up just fine and they are very smooth in operation. I'll post the results tomorrow.

The best part is the pricing which is less than the Tamiya units. No they are not TCS legal, but it's only a 10 min job to switch them. I'm planning on using these all year and just use the Tamiya ones for the TCS races.

Last edited by Granpa; 12-17-2011 at 10:10 PM. Reason: correcton
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Old 12-17-2011, 10:57 PM
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Tamiyas M Four has hit the HK shops, with a price that is still pretty high, but not as bad as it first looked.



By the way, it's also hit the rc-mini workshop, and our full review will be up soonish...with xmas in the way it might take a bit longer than usual..
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Old 12-18-2011, 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
Off topic, but thought all Mini enthusiasts would be interested in this cause it addresses a weak point in all Minis. Steve from R1 Wurks brought by some CVD units that were incredible. Workmanship is to his usual high standard and a lot of thought has been given to address the weak points in the Tamiya units. I used to buy 3 or 4 of them at a time cause the universals soon developed slop and the rebuildable ones used to oblong the pin holes very quickly or the blasted pins worked loose and chewed up my front uprights.

They are machined from a spring steel type material, so are much harder than the Tamiya ones. The axles are hollow for lightness. The cross pin has 2 set screws and the pin itself is slightly smaller in diameter where the the set screw seats so that if the screw loosens a bit, it won't work loose and chew up your front uprights. The yoke itself is thicker so it shouldn't develop slop nearly as quickly as the Tamiya units plus it is made from a harder steel. The axles themselves are slightly longer so you can run spacers to widen the tread and still have enough thread for the wheel retainer nylocks. I have a set of the prototype units and will see if I can break them tomorrow. Just from examining them, they should hold up just fine and they are very smooth in operation. I'll post the results tomorrow.

The best part is the pricing which is less than the Tamiya units. No they are not TCS legal, but it's only a 10 min job to switch them. I'm planning on using these all year and just use the Tamiya ones for the TCS races.
Granpa

I have never had any issue with using the 3 Racing universals instead of the tamiya versions. They are both reliable and cheap. And now 3 Racing has released a sleeve for their universals which slips over the outside and eliminates the need to use a grub screw to lock the pin in place
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Old 12-18-2011, 12:20 AM
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Originally Posted by cannon View Post
Granpa

I have never had any issue with using the 3 Racing universals instead of the tamiya versions. They are both reliable and cheap. And now 3 Racing has released a sleeve for their universals which slips over the outside and eliminates the need to use a grub screw to lock the pin in place

id have to agree, im using a set of the 3racing unis in my velo mini doing 80+ km/h and they haven't failed yet
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Old 12-18-2011, 01:47 AM
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post

The way I see it is that a cap is like a spring, but for voltage. As the car slows approaching a corner, for example, energy gets put in (compression) and at some point the cap has to release the voltage (decompression). I'm mainly concerned about whether or not it's controlled or if the car just launch on me.

Jim
the cap stores engery. So does the Batt
the batt stores much more energy than the caps
if the cap worked as people seem to think, the esc would ALLWAYS draw engery from the cap 1st, making it worthless.

as far as the esc is concerned, it will ALLWAYS draw the most energy from whatever has the lowest resistance(reactance) , the keeping cap & batt voltages more or less the same , allways.

Just my theory..
the batts a constant(sorta) DC voltage source, not an AC source where caps are used to smooth out ripple from voltage drops from + to 0 to -
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Old 12-18-2011, 02:43 AM
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Well, never got that far today. Made a mistake I haven't made for a very long time, if ever - I soldered a Dean's plug on backwards. There were two tiny mushroom clouds atop my desk this afternoon. One from a shiny new TEU-101BK ESC and the other from a Spektrum SR3100 receiver. Oops.

Don't solder when you're so tired you can't see, kids.

Jim
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Old 12-18-2011, 02:59 AM
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
Well, never got that far today. Made a mistake I haven't made for a very long time, if ever - I soldered a Dean's plug on backwards. There were two tiny mushroom clouds atop my desk this afternoon. One from a shiny new TEU-101BK ESC and the other from a Spektrum SR3100 receiver. Oops.

Don't solder when you're so tired you can't see, kids.

Jim
Opps.... Don't worry, many of us have been there, done that before
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Old 12-18-2011, 05:38 AM
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Originally Posted by tony gray View Post
Tamiyas M Four has hit the HK shops, with a price that is still pretty high, but not as bad as it first looked.



By the way, it's also hit the rc-mini workshop, and our full review will be up soonish...with xmas in the way it might take a bit longer than usual..
Hmmm. For once, I think they are priced better in Japan. Maybe I should bring a few back, then.

One other thing I found (not sure how recent it is) Tamiya released the R5 Turbo GT2 again on a 1/12 platform as they call it. I had a look at it in a shop here and it looks like a normal M05.

There are also conversions of all kinds mainly for Tamiya kits, including a TA05 to make it a mini (don't remember who makes it), and a full carbon version of the M05 made by Tech Racing. Amazing stuff in hobby shops at any rate.

I'll check again the pricing on the M Four kit.
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Old 12-18-2011, 05:49 AM
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
Hmmm. For once, I think they are priced better in Japan. Maybe I should bring a few back, then.
The cheapest I can find it here in japan is 31,500yen which, given the exchange rate is actually more that the pirice listed above.
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Old 12-18-2011, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
Well, never got that far today. Made a mistake I haven't made for a very long time, if ever - I soldered a Dean's plug on backwards. There were two tiny mushroom clouds atop my desk this afternoon. One from a shiny new TEU-101BK ESC and the other from a Spektrum SR3100 receiver. Oops.

Don't solder when you're so tired you can't see, kids.

Jim
I soldered a deans female on an esc and as my soldering is not
my strong point this was spot on heat shrink tube the works
Then i realised what i had done !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 12-18-2011, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by clittle View Post
The cheapest I can find it here in japan is 31,500yen which, given the exchange rate is actually more that the pirice listed above.
Where are you looking?
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Old 12-18-2011, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by 1101 View Post
the cap stores engery. So does the Batt
the batt stores much more energy than the caps
if the cap worked as people seem to think, the esc would ALLWAYS draw engery from the cap 1st, making it worthless.

as far as the esc is concerned, it will ALLWAYS draw the most energy from whatever has the lowest resistance(reactance) , the keeping cap & batt voltages more or less the same , allways.

Just my theory..
the batts a constant(sorta) DC voltage source, not an AC source where caps are used to smooth out ripple from voltage drops from + to 0 to -
You are correct.
These caps are banked with resistors once fully charged they throw a spike of voltage, its short, but it keeps pulsing higher voltage.
And voltage is speed
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Old 12-18-2011, 02:44 PM
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Here are some pictures
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya mini cooper-mini-1.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-mini-2.jpg  
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