Profoxcg

iTrader: (2)

red quite honestly I have not been to my track yet w the car. But from experience I can tell you its slow and that I would be a total road block. My mini-z seemed to have more punch.

The track where I plan to race has long straight and some pretty technical bits. I can def benefit from a car with some good acceleration and moderate top end. My driving style is usually to not use the brakes in the infield unless I HAVE to, and just a light tap at the end of the straight. (this is true for nitro and mini-z) I am sure 10th tc will be different. But my ESC has dynamic brakes, so maybe I wont use brakes at all. It is going to be a learning process with this car and electric overall.

I do however wanted to have enough gears so that when I go to the track I can happily run the car and start to tune.

About suspension,
The springs in the kit are MED. Anyone using Hard or soft?
both of the track I plan to run are concrete. On the tennis court the car felt nice, but I am sure once I bring it up to speed things will change.

red7fifty

iTrader: (3)

Tamiya makes two different sets of springs Soft set (3 rates)
and Hard set (4 different rates)
As for as I know (and comparing the kit supplied White w/ Yellow Med spring)
it compares to the Med Yellow Hard set in this kit:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53440
(nevermind the outdated black and white photo)
From that kit, you have red, softer, and blue stiffer, and other white, more stiffer.
I have a set that I bring with me to an indoor carpet track, but, have not used anything other than the kit springs.

I drove an RC car on the High School tennis court once, lots of grip, but really upsets the P.E. teachers!

As far as gearing in your application, I would probably start with the 28t, (from the 28 and 29t set) A safer approach (as per your manual with the motor) would be to start with the 26t (from the 26 and 27t set)

Check the motor temp after a few minutes, and the length of a race, and adjust according.

red7fifty

iTrader: (3)

For the stock pinion included.....find someone at the track with a TT01 or Mini....they might want that pinion.

silverhkswrx

iTrader: (10)

A few had this issue. Check your center pulleu(up front) it has a tendency to back the screw out and causing it to angle out. fix: Longer screw (10mm or 12mm if i am not mistaken) and a nut fastened to the bottom. or hop up to the eagle racing parts. It fixed my issue.....

****I am an idiot. I circled the wrong screw! its the blue screw in the picture.

silverhkswrx

iTrader: (10)

I strongly disagree. I have been rc drifting for 6 years now (started out with a yokomo) and this is BY FAR a better chassis. more balanced and the response is unmatched. only issue so far is countersteer drifting. no one has made kits, but when (if) they do, the only mod can impact the front being as how the rear are gears that cannot be adjusted...there is a company that is coming out with Ackerman steering set for this chassis. too bad its $100.


I WAS going to race RCGT, but I have decided to stick to rcdrifting (eventhough I am the only one in CFL that drifts....)

silverhkswrx

iTrader: (10)

also 2x the weight....

the main benefit of Titanium is weight with strength slightly compromised. steel/chrome is just as heavy if not heavier than the stock parts.

red7fifty

iTrader: (3)

Thanks. Yeah, we checked that first, and screws were not loose, but reset it anyway....didn't seem to change anything....belt is still, very very loose.

silverhkswrx

iTrader: (10)

what body are you running? (IFS or not) If IFS, you can run a stiffer spring out back to compensate for the additional downforce the IFS body creates. (but your car will understeer a tad) I actualy bought the TRF rear damper cups to give me the flexability to run different springs. I was using the TRF rear cups with the Rayspeed white springs (I thinkt he Tamiya yellows are 14 and the blues are 17, the Rayspeeds are around 15.5)

silverhkswrx

iTrader: (10)

chassis cracked?

Mine is actually VERY tight. Try using the Kawada belts. they're stronger and fiber reinforced.

red7fifty

iTrader: (3)

I don't think so......Maybe the belts have already stretched?

Profoxcg

iTrader: (2)

what is a "TRF rear damper cups " how does it give you the flexibility to run other springs? dont the plactic do the same?

I was going to race rcgt, but I am now going straight to Touring HA! When I get my serpent then maybe ill move it into Tc and keep the TA for Tamiya cups and rcgt. (although there is people here running TRF41X for rcgt..

stitchy

iTrader: (13)

Just got the new Carbon reinforced A, J, and T parts as well as the front carbon damper stay:

http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...catmainid=1045

silverhkswrx

iTrader: (10)

the tamiya dampers run a little thin. the trf cups allow a larger diameter spring to be used.(non-tamiya spring)

SNIPR

iTrader: (12)

Both of the chassis I have listed are made specifically for drifting w/ the exception to the TC-FD which comes with all pulleys for either one minus the CS stuff unfortunitly... I am not saying this chassis will not work but what it will take to match the Tamiya VDF - just buy the VDF... Either way wrong thread for this debate

I am sorry but no one is going to notice that little bit of difference in weight unless you are a factory pro driver such as Marc Rheinard... $70 vs $21 for hex over philips is a positive in my book. If you are going to race in RCGT/USGT/VTA you need the added weight and the minimum is set so high.

Of if you are like myself and plan on upgrading to graphite the VBC Chassis kit comes w/ the hex screws already. I am just waiting to see what Exotek is coming out with before I decide.

peter_robinson

iTrader: (21)

Probably should have asked this before purchasing a kit... But do trinity/epic motors not fit without modding the chassis? If not then I'll have a half assembled kit up for sale soon...