Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

Is this kit ready for purchase?

Donk

I bought it through their online store.

MC112b

iTrader: (64)

That's a pretty racy looking chassis! If it works like it looks sign me up. Can you still do right side servo mod? Have a link to that website handy?

Profoxcg

iTrader: (2)

that looks very nice.

BTW. where are the transponders connected to in the receiver (will I need a Y connector?)


I just got a GEN ACE battery and while the actually battery fits in the car, the wires are so thick in gauge that the battery does not fit...

silverhkswrx

iTrader: (10)

yes. unless your receiver has an additional channel(bnot being used by a fan)

Profoxcg

iTrader: (2)

okay sounds good. This is my receiver (to be)


regarding batteries, what are you guys running? posts? - as I mentioned my genace came with such a THINK wire that the battery just does not fit.

Donk

Their website is vbc racing.com.
What is the right side servo mod? Can you tell me a bit more on that?

gom

iTrader: (1)

i am using a turnigy nanotech hardcase battery with 2 holes in the corners for the bullet connectors. the battery fits well. it's a tight fit, but it fits. if the 2 holes are a bit closer together, it wouldn't fit. if my wires are a bit fatter, it wouldn't fit either. this chassis is quite picky about batteries. not everything fits.

if you get a battery where the wires are pre-attached to the case, then it might not fit.

a guy in my club uses almost the same type of battery as i do. but for some reason his wouldn't fit.

MC112b

iTrader: (64)

Thanks for the website.

The right hand steering mod is mounting the servo on the right side of the car. This puts the esc on the left side, away from the belts and with shorter/cleaner motor wiring. You can do it with the stock parts, but it takes some dremel grinding. I made a mirror imaged K6 (in the manual) to make hassle free. PM me if your interested.

Donk

Thanks for the mod info. I will try it on the vbc kit to see whether it can do it on this kit

silverhkswrx

iTrader: (10)

I am running the VenomRC hardcase lipo(5000 mah 35c) with the top plugs and mine fits/works fine.

Profoxcg

iTrader: (2)

Can anyone share some pointers for setting up this car for asphalt?
I am began tonight with droop. Where are you guys measuring the droop and what is the standard / starting point?



This is where my rear is set being measured at the back of the rear knuckle.
(I remember serpent including a default setup that would show where to measure ect.) I wonder it tamiya has something similar?

Also, how are you guys running the gear difs (weight)
Thank you.

I wanted to add that I decided to set the droop to 1 because both arms to not go down to zero for some reason. The drivers side slowest is something like .5 while the passengers does go to zero... I wonder if it has something to do with the "reversible" arms.

alien rc

I was just asking me the same question profoxcg !!!

Here in France, top pilotes (with classic cars such as Yok / 417...) say we need 4mm droop at the rear.
--> But with my car (ok, I have a personnal carbone conversion kit but anyway...) the rear have absolutly no grip when breaking !!!

I believe perhaps it's because of the droop...
--> I will test less droop next time but if TA06 professionals can give some help, it would be very appreciate...

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Use this method shown here at the bottom to set droop. Its the absolute best way because you are measuring at the wheel and not some random suspension part which is different from car to car. Camber adjustment can affect droop as well and measuring at the arm bottom cannot detect the droop change that happens when you adjust camber.

http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/fe...article-id=583

With this method my front axle is 24mm and the rear is 25mm.

red7fifty

iTrader: (3)

TA06 Pro
I've got $.02, highly recommend for mid-level club racing.

Just built this kit, in (almost) box stock configuration, and raced it last night.
First race for this chassis, placed 1st.

Out of the box, it has a lot of steering, dialed in 30% expo, and DR to 80%.
Very predictable handling, and quick recovery when you overpower a turn.

I picked up a few build tips from this forum:
Use all 3 shims per each side, when assembling diffs.

MY initial set-up: (Indoor carpet track, Team Dewey's Karcher Mall, Nampa)
Stand up front shocks, kit supplied shock oil, kit springs
AE 3000 rear diff fluid
AE 5000 front diff fluid
1 degree toe-out front
1.5 degree front neg camber
2.0 degree rear neg camber
5mm ride height

As built with kit shock settings, car has a lot more body roll than I'm used to, but after a few laps getting used to the car, was able to get used to the handling characteristics and finish in 1st position.
I think there is a LOT of potential for this chassis, as demonstrated in it's first run (before any serious tuning!)

Take your time with the build, there are a lot of little shims that are easily forgotten, or placed in the wrong areas if you don't pay attention to the INSTRUCTIONS (Don't throw the instructions out the window! You'll likely mix up something important) A micrometer helps, to make sure you don't mix up the shims, or screws, and help get your turnbuckles the right starting length. (On my alignment jig, I only had to adjust a very small amount)
Take your time threading the ballcups straight. A Punisher (Lunsford) or Integy Tmax aluminum turnbuckle wrench, keeps from marring up the turnbuckles.

A TC5 foam bumper, can be lightly modified to fit on the front of this car (it's a lot more protection, if your tend to hit a lot of things head on)
Not shown in these pictures, I made a carbon side guard (to offer a small amount of protection for the new ESC) I'm sure someone will be making them soon......too bad I don't have a manuf. company