Profoxcg

iTrader: (2)

The gears in the kit are what pitch? - I see pictures of the car with a white spur as opposed to the black one in the kit.

inpuressa

iTrader: (10)

with the batts getting heavier, (6000mah) the balancing will get harder with the current layout. i hope the ta06 can start a new trend in tc design.

TenzoR

iTrader: (8)

Perhaps new TC should consider using shorty packs too

zaraz

iTrader: (38)

sold my ta05, is the ta06 worth the money or should i get the ta05 ver 2, or get something else, i read the entire thread, and some say its a good car while others say no, i will be racing it in the gt2 catagory, black can motor, so which car should i get thanks

Profoxcg

iTrader: (2)

I am still building mine, but im not new to racing and from experience I have to say some cars works better for some people than for others.

Some were very fast with a S710, I had some it was a good car, but I certainly did much better with my MTX4. Not sure if its the same in electric, but I am it is. Also Bodies make a difference.

So far I am liking the kit, but I am disappointed in the bearings. I though they would be rubber sealed like what I was used to seeing on my nitro cars?

How am I supposed to clean the great our of these metal sealed bearings? - do you guys at all?

VooDooPH

iTrader: (18)

everybody was using the standard tamiya spurs (black)... either 68T .4pitch or 102T .6pitch.

http://tamiyaasiacup2011.blogspot.co.../gt-class.html

The white one's you've seen are probably Xenon spurs... 64p

Profoxcg

iTrader: (2)

those are some sexy cars.

WC

iTrader: (28)

stock TB03 is like a sloppy Evo5, handles about same just less precise

TA06 feels to have the snap of a shaftdrive but remains forgiving like a belter

although i like shaft transmissions for their efficiency in lower-power classes
these days with lipo+BL i don't think there's any marked differences

WC

iTrader: (28)

T used to have some fantastic blue rubber sealed bearings many yrs back
and the higher-end chassis would be blessed with them... would've been
up till TB EvoIII Surikarn & TRF414M2 then they stopped giving them.

Now everything gets the ordinary steel sheilds probably of some cheap china origin.


pick out the C-clip at the outer edge of the sheild, shield falls out.
I use tip of knife to lift the pointy end of C-clip.
You can take out 1 or both sides.

most grease lately don't seem too easily sprayed out with motor spray
so i soak them overnight in hot water with dishdrops or truck degreaser.

Usually do in a large batch, oil them when ready for use.

Profoxcg

iTrader: (2)

I just tried to open one and no success... =(
Either way at some point I think these will need to be upgraded.

WC

iTrader: (28)

bearings don't last forever, these days they're throwaway cheap
(i don't bother buying fancypants ceramics or exotic ABEC10,001 etc)

don't really have to open them, i also use an RPM Bearing Blaster
and shoot thru motorspray (brake cleaner even better) & compressed air

just takes a bit more labour than boiling the whole batch in sudsy water

Profoxcg

iTrader: (2)

I was thinking of buying an ultrasonic cleaner and just dumping them in there with some soap or something...

WC

iTrader: (28)

I have a "jewelry size" ultrasonic cleaner.

It doesn't rate a mention 'cos it doesn't really work any better than just
giving your parts a scrub with an old toothbrush, faster too.

Some ppl fill the ultrasonic with mineral solvents... highly unrecommended as
the ultrasonic will vaporise the flammable liquid and fill your room with vapour,
just waiting for the next tiny spark to happen.


Degreasing bearings, lazyman's way with least effort is to boil them in
detergent/degreaser and let them soak a few days then rinsing.

Could soak in any solvent eg turps, acetone, petrol, naptha etc
but its still not as fast as hot detergent.


Tabletop parts washer would be best, but i haven't found
enough excuse to buy one to try yet

VooDooPH

iTrader: (18)

how to clean bearings:

1. get a film canister (the old cylindrical containers used to store film way back when cameras didn't have slots for SD cards)
2. drill a small hole on the cover
3. dump all your bearings in the container and cover
4. with your rc cleaner/brake parts cleaner or whatever solvent you use, insert the straw or nozzle through the hole and spray a liberal amount into the cylinder. fill 1/3 to 1/2 full.
5. with a towel pressed down by your finger against the hole, shake the can like you were making a margarita (accompanying music and dance moves optional).
6. when your tired from the shaking and dancing, stop, drain the fluid and let the bearings out.

silverhkswrx

iTrader: (10)

This is the EXACT method I use. Except I take off one side, and place all parts in the film case. I also use aresol gun oil to lubricate/clean.