TheInfamousSofa

Hey guys! New Lab guy here. I will be racing a carpet- my series starts on the 17th. Mike from the U.K. has been a great help!

I am in the market for spare parts if anyone has some.........

thanks,
Jason

seaball

iTrader: (9)

sofa, shoot me a mail.

and welcome.

TheInfamousSofa

Email has been shot- though my email goes to my work, so I wont be able to respond till tomorrow morning.

seaball

iTrader: (9)

that's cool. i've got to get off to bed.

TRUENO

Hiii,

I have just installed the front one-way drive on to my RCLAB 7 Even, but after install it, my rear wheel drifting as I enter the corner (either left or right corner). what would be the cause to it??? Please advise...!!!

All The other setting is set to default setting as instructed in the manual...

Shock oil used = INTEGY
Shock oil weight = 20
Front Spring = RCLAB Silver Spring
Rear Spring = RCLAB Gold Spring
Shocker = GT3 Threaded Shock

Hope with this info about my current setting will help to solve my problem...

Thank you...

TRUENO

Hiii,

I have just installed the front one-way drive on to my RCLAB 7 Even, but after install it, my rear wheel drifting as I enter the corner (either left or right corner). what would be the cause to it??? Please advise...!!!

All The other setting is set to default setting as instructed in the manual...

Shock oil used = INTEGY
Shock oil weight = 20
Front Spring = RCLAB Silver Spring
Rear Spring = RCLAB Gold Spring
Shocker = GT3 Threaded Shock

Hope with this info about my current setting will help to solve my problem...

Thank you...

seaball

iTrader: (9)

trueno,

i'm not sure how much experience you have with one ways up front, but they lend themselves to that much more than a diff does. while your setup may need tweeked, you still will not likely be able to drive as aggressively as you would with a differential installed in the front.

if you are looking for more rear bite, you can do a number of things. most of which make the suspension softer in the rear or stiffer in the front.

because you mentioned that this is happening in the entry of the turn, i would recommend starting with the front of the car, as that is where most of the weight is on turn entry.

stiffen
- front springs
- front dampening

then, try to do opposite for the rear, if it is still a problem. also check your rear droop. you should have some up travel of the chassis in the rear, along the lines of 3-5 mm in general. if you do not have adequate droop, i would prioritize this to first, then proceed with the others.

i do hope you are happy with the results.

TheInfamousSofa

seaball-I was able to get a great deal on parts from another party. But thanks for the offer, I still may get a few off of you in the future.

TRUENO-seaball is right. You may also get away with just changing the mounting position on of the shocks-more layed down in front and more vertical in the rear. I for one do not like one-ways. You may just try running a standard diff up front unless its a supper fast track w/ min. braking.

seaball

iTrader: (9)

sofa - no p. i'm here if you need me.

TRUENO

Hi SeaBall...,

I'm still new with this Front One-Way unit and also the car itself... Frankly speaking, this is my first one-way... alll this while, I am using the Diff set...

I have already stiffen the front suspension (using gold rclab spring) and soften the rear suspension (using black rclab spring)... It shows a bit improvement but still I could not control/handle the car... may be I should check the droop height as advised by you... Currently my droop height is 8 on the rear and 6 in front measured using the hudy setup tools. What is the recommended droop height if I want to have a ride height of 6mm rear and 5mm infront...???

I'm playing the car on a tarmack surface... could you recommend me any settings that work best on a technical tarmack track...

Well... Hope more solutions to come in... thanx...

*For others who has a lots of experience about this car... (the settings, tips and tricks) are also welcome to give ideas and solutions...


Thanx....

seaball

iTrader: (9)

gauges, gauges, gauges. droop is just up travel of the chassis. if you use a wedged ride height gauge to set your r/h, use it to measure droop as well. just hold the tires to the ground, tug on the shock tower at that end, and measure the amount your chassis travels up. that's it.

other advice? well, if the track requires alot of braking or lifting, a spool or a diff might work better than a one way. but i am a fan of trying new things and learning from them. and the aluminum spool, a seaball copy, is a joke. do not, under any circumstances, use aluminum for a spool unless you are using flat metal pincushions (like niftech stuff). or if you want to replace it every race or so.

back to the one way. they are very fast when right, so let's try to get it right. as you are hopefully aware, the front wheels freewheel during braking. that's responsible for the increased steering response at turn entry. the wheels are free to use their available traction for changing direction, not speed. to compound issues, a greater percentage of rear traction is now being dedicated to decreasing speed, so there is less rear traction left over to maintain lateral stability. hah! easy stuff.

most of the tuning methods used to properly setup a oneway focus on getting the lateral f/r traction bias, back to a normal. i've mentioned a few of the drastic changes. now for more subtle stuff.

- roll center. if you have the latest car, make sure that your front hingepins are as low as possible to the chassis. conversely, you could space up the rear hingpin 1 or 2 mm, and use an even softer spring. the idea here is a nose down roll axis.

- camber, make sure your camber is in check. use more rear camber since you won't gain any from castor like the front will.

- castor, this requires hopup parts, but changing castor has a dramatic effect on steering response. trouble is, no one agrees on which does what. i won't comment, as i ran the car on carpet, and my findings may not apply.

most of these chassis are run outdoors on asphalt, so i wouldn't think your setup to be much different. it may be that you will need to increase your sensitivity in terms of your input. even very good drivers have commented that driving with a one way forced them to re-learn how to drive!

keep in mind that by doing all of these things to deaden the front response, you are essentially taking away the very characteristic that makes a one way so fast. a catch 22 of sorts.

good luck.

eeyan

iTrader: (3)

Hi guys... just wanted to inquire if I can still get parts for the Seven 6.0 VerII...? Yup... this is an old car... and it's always good to have spares for old cars... I currently need arms for it (the upgraded ones should be a lot better I think...) So if anybody has any info on where to get old parts... let me know... thanx!

TRUENO

PROBLEM SOLVED..!!!

Thanx to ALL.... Thank you for the Ideas and Solutions...

Regards...

Trueno

coolikeice

Hi Treuno,

For your info, the New rclab Threaded Shocks are using the 7S-017-RG Graphite Shock Tower


New 7-7 GT3-R uses the 7S_017_RG Graphite Shock Tower for both Front and Rear.


Here is another pic of the new shocks using the 7S-017-RG


7S_017_FG Front Graphite Shock Tower for the 7-7even Blue Factor

You might have notice that the Stock Springs are a bit longer than the DS-002-PS Pro Series Spring Set Gold, Silver, Black
Spring rate at 6.5kg, 6.0kg, 5.5kg, Custom height at 22.5mm

Some settings will have change if you uses the 7-7even Blue Factor Chassis with the same shock towers and uses the DS-002-PS Pro Series Springs.

audiaudi

iTrader: (2)

What are you looking for? I think I still got some.