13LikesRCLAB 7even Cars.
10-09-2002, 07:23 AM
#736
I was just wondering if anyone else uses laydown shocks. It seems to unbalance the car too much for me, running on slippy wooden floors means balance is quite important. I've gone back to normal positions to get rid of some of the on power oversteer. Some of the oversteer is from the rear diff being a bit too tight I think though, which is annoying as I found it difficult to get it as loose as it is, the screws seemed to not be tight enough if I set the diff any looser, I'm using the alloy bodied diffs front and rear BTW, any tips?
I've got to get my car properly setup now if I want to gain anymore places, I'm consistantly 6th in the A final, loosing a couple laps to the top 5, and the guys behind me are getting challenging.
I've got to get my car properly setup now if I want to gain anymore places, I'm consistantly 6th in the A final, loosing a couple laps to the top 5, and the guys behind me are getting challenging.
10-09-2002, 10:47 PM
#737
Hello Herminator,
Lay down shocks....could you be more specific?.Or have pics of it.What kind of surface you run on.Carpet,laminated wood flrs?..let us know.There's a few settings you can check first...here's the site addy.http://www.rclabusa.com/ and find settings.Or check the Uk ones.[URL=http://www.rclab.rochenhost.com/rclab/7-6prosetups.htm]
check them out and try them and write them down for your own use. and make changes to them and see how you like it.Hope this help.If not let me know.
I'm running alluminium bodied diff outdrives too.I got to try the lighter diffs made of delrin soon.I'll be building my next car with a few changes...will post pics once it's finish..stay tune.
Chris.
Lay down shocks....could you be more specific?.Or have pics of it.What kind of surface you run on.Carpet,laminated wood flrs?..let us know.There's a few settings you can check first...here's the site addy.http://www.rclabusa.com/ and find settings.Or check the Uk ones.[URL=http://www.rclab.rochenhost.com/rclab/7-6prosetups.htm]
check them out and try them and write them down for your own use. and make changes to them and see how you like it.Hope this help.If not let me know.
I'm running alluminium bodied diff outdrives too.I got to try the lighter diffs made of delrin soon.I'll be building my next car with a few changes...will post pics once it's finish..stay tune.
Chris.
10-10-2002, 12:25 PM
#738
I got the lay down shocks positions from th rclab uk website, since I'm in the uk. Basicly you use the inner most mounting poisition for the top of the rear shocks and then use the hole in meant for the screws that also go through the c-hubs at the front, so the base of the shock is very near the wheel. It is supposed to give yo ua lot of rear grip, often causing the car to understeer a lot. They've also tried small carbon fibre brackets mounted to the normal lower shock mounting holes at the front of the car, and the holes meant for the transponder mount for laydown shocks at the front, although I've not heard anything about this recently. Try this link for all the info http://www.rclab.rochenhost.com/foru...topic.php?t=24
I really need to get some setup tools like camber guages to make my setups more accurate, I'm also having problems with the turnbuckles being a little short, since I'm using the inner most mounting holes for these, a nit on the rear wheels cuases the turnbuckle to move in the plastic end, making the trim change, I'll try the shorter options, this may help make the rear a little more stable from what I understand bt I'm not sure. I run on a wooden gym floor, so it's slippy and we have to use yellow mini pins to get through the dust.
be careful with the delrin diffs, you have to make sure the outer small washer rotates freely, due to some tolerence thing with the delrin diffs you will probably have to grind the washers outer edge a little. Otherwise you get probems with setting the diff.
I really need to get some setup tools like camber guages to make my setups more accurate, I'm also having problems with the turnbuckles being a little short, since I'm using the inner most mounting holes for these, a nit on the rear wheels cuases the turnbuckle to move in the plastic end, making the trim change, I'll try the shorter options, this may help make the rear a little more stable from what I understand bt I'm not sure. I run on a wooden gym floor, so it's slippy and we have to use yellow mini pins to get through the dust.
be careful with the delrin diffs, you have to make sure the outer small washer rotates freely, due to some tolerence thing with the delrin diffs you will probably have to grind the washers outer edge a little. Otherwise you get probems with setting the diff.
10-10-2002, 10:01 PM
#739
Hi Herminator,
Ha.... I c what you meant on lay down shocks.This creates a lot of resistence to the rear shocks.I would use the the most inner lwr hole and upper 3rd hole on the tower.(in the middle)I like to play with droop screws for rear traction.More or less depending on surface,and type of tracks.
As measuring and adjusting the car,rpm camber gauge is good start or if money is no problem,a set of Hudy set up tools be excellent.It does all.Integy makes a good one too.Ride height is also to adjust.Use a spur gear.make sure your frt and rear preloads are there and shove the spur under the chassis on a setting board and see.If it won't go thru,ur car is too low.Illegal heights!!!..if it just touches and glides thru,it's abt 5mm.u be safe.Give that a try.Thats a cheap way to adjust ride heights.
We used to run on gym floors long time ago but on foam tires,it was a blast.That was many many years ago.traction rolling was the scariest part....everyone rolls..too fast and too high traction..
As for the delrin diffs....I'm working on it.I did noticed this problems on my old Kawada SV10 prior running this car.Thanks for the tip anyways.They are light weight,but there's the side effects from it if it's not done right.Till then.Cheerio...
Keep the trend going...............we the only mid motor racers doing so well so far.....keeo up the good work..like to see some of your ride pictures though...post!!post!!..
Chrisman.
Ha....
I c what you meant on lay down shocks.This creates a lot of resistence to the rear shocks.I would use the the most inner lwr hole and upper 3rd hole on the tower.(in the middle)I like to play with droop screws for rear traction.More or less depending on surface,and type of tracks.As measuring and adjusting the car,rpm camber gauge is good start or if money is no problem,a set of Hudy set up tools be excellent.It does all.Integy makes a good one too.Ride height is also to adjust.Use a spur gear.make sure your frt and rear preloads are there and shove the spur under the chassis on a setting board and see.If it won't go thru,ur car is too low.Illegal heights!!!..
if it just touches and glides thru,it's abt 5mm.u be safe.Give that a try.Thats a cheap way to adjust ride heights.We used to run on gym floors long time ago but on foam tires,it was a blast.That was many many years ago.traction rolling was the scariest part....everyone rolls..too fast and too high traction..
As for the delrin diffs....I'm working on it.I did noticed this problems on my old Kawada SV10 prior running this car.Thanks for the tip anyways.They are light weight,but there's the side effects from it if it's not done right.Till then.Cheerio...
Keep the trend going...............we the only mid motor racers doing so well so far.....keeo up the good work..like to see some of your ride pictures though...post!!post!!..
Chrisman.
10-10-2002, 10:43 PM
#740
Hi Herminator,
I myself have'nt tried this laydown shock as I had to do some tweaking to get the mild understeer out of the car with the stock setup. Try the mod on the rear upper plate that we used here in Canada if you have spares for it, we cut them down into 2 pieces which gives more grip going into the corner. I have tried this on a slippery track and I find it to have the right grip, instead of softening the rear which will give you some understeer.
As for the turnbuckles, I believe that RCLAB UK have the longer turnbuckles in stock. You can also try Lunsford as I have been using them on every turnbuckle in my car.
Chrisman - how do you post pics without using the attch file option? Do you use HTML links in your posts?
I myself have'nt tried this laydown shock as I had to do some tweaking to get the mild understeer out of the car with the stock setup. Try the mod on the rear upper plate that we used here in Canada if you have spares for it, we cut them down into 2 pieces which gives more grip going into the corner. I have tried this on a slippery track and I find it to have the right grip, instead of softening the rear which will give you some understeer.
As for the turnbuckles, I believe that RCLAB UK have the longer turnbuckles in stock. You can also try Lunsford as I have been using them on every turnbuckle in my car.
Chrisman - how do you post pics without using the attch file option? Do you use HTML links in your posts?
10-25-2002, 05:39 PM
#742
Ok guys, we need something to talk about so you can all help with my setup. Here's a link you'll have to copy and paste into another window, it is my current setup.
http://www.geocities.com/arccc2002/Peterbadsetup.jpg
I'm having great problems getting the rear end to stop spinning around coming out of corners, and it's not exactly stable going into them either. I've found that using less spacers at the rear makes things worse, adding them helps until you go too far, such as a mm more than I have in right now, so I tried harder springs instead of loads of spacers, which didn't work at all. I'm now trying slightly softer than stock by using HPI reds in the rear, I still need the spacers it seems. More upright shocks has improved things a bit too but the inner most lower shock position doesn't work well. Looks like I need to make changes to the front, I think it has far too much grip.
http://www.geocities.com/arccc2002/Peterbadsetup.jpg
I'm having great problems getting the rear end to stop spinning around coming out of corners, and it's not exactly stable going into them either. I've found that using less spacers at the rear makes things worse, adding them helps until you go too far, such as a mm more than I have in right now, so I tried harder springs instead of loads of spacers, which didn't work at all. I'm now trying slightly softer than stock by using HPI reds in the rear, I still need the spacers it seems. More upright shocks has improved things a bit too but the inner most lower shock position doesn't work well. Looks like I need to make changes to the front, I think it has far too much grip.
Last edited by Herminator; 10-25-2002 at 08:38 PM.
10-25-2002, 06:55 PM
#743
wow, it's been a while since anyone posted here. this sunday will be the virgin run for my 7even. i can't wait. thanks to everyone who helped me obtain some spares. i'll post pics as soon as i can, and maybe a setup if i can find a good one. we run on high grip carpet with lots of hairpins. herminator, obviously i can't help much yet, but hang in there, we need to keep this thread alive.
10-25-2002, 08:44 PM
#744
Hello Herminator...
I see your rear end is moving out on you...to cure that is simple.
If you have Hpi springs...here the set up.
Red springs in frt.
Blue springs in rear.
Spacers up frt and rear same thickness of medium used.
2 pieces frt per shock and 1 in the rear per shock.
Give more droop in the rear.(important)
Tighten the frt droop a little till the frt shocks and springs compressed together lightly.(not too hard).car off the table.Make sure no load on wheels.
Shock mts frt.From outside top @ # 3 hole(middle).
Shock mts frt lower on the out side hole.
Shock mts rear.From outside top in wards @ # 3 hole(middle)
Shock mts rear lower on the inside hole.
Shock oil frt and rear 30w with 2 hole piston no sway bars....body is a 300M..tires be Sorex 32 with Hpi green inserts.
Running with frt one ways.
Give this a try.
Chris.
Hey Seaball,
Like to see your lab...... have fun with it.Le tme know how it goes.
Chris.
I see your rear end is moving out on you...to cure that is simple.
If you have Hpi springs...here the set up.
Red springs in frt.
Blue springs in rear.
Spacers up frt and rear same thickness of medium used.
2 pieces frt per shock and 1 in the rear per shock.
Give more droop in the rear.(important)
Tighten the frt droop a little till the frt shocks and springs compressed together lightly.(not too hard).car off the table.Make sure no load on wheels.
Shock mts frt.From outside top @ # 3 hole(middle).
Shock mts frt lower on the out side hole.
Shock mts rear.From outside top in wards @ # 3 hole(middle)
Shock mts rear lower on the inside hole.
Shock oil frt and rear 30w with 2 hole piston no sway bars....body is a 300M..tires be Sorex 32 with Hpi green inserts.
Running with frt one ways.
Give this a try.
Chris.
Hey Seaball,
Like to see your lab......
have fun with it.Le tme know how it goes.Chris.
10-26-2002, 12:43 PM
#745
Is that a tarmac setup? I run on slippy wooden gym floor, I'll probably need more rear end grip than that setup gives but I'll try it, I have nothing to loose at the moment.
10-26-2002, 12:55 PM
#746
Tech Apprentice
Hi Herminator,
Can I suggest that your setup is way out, where on earth did you get those top link settings from!!! And your shocks!!!!
Go back to the original kit set-up then go from there!
On low grip surfaces, use softer oil 40 front, 30 rear), kit springs (black 270's) and get your roll centres correct, with the kit set-up in low grip situations the car handles unbelievably well, if yours doesn't then I would respectfully suggest that you recheck your build.
Can I suggest that your setup is way out, where on earth did you get those top link settings from!!! And your shocks!!!!
Go back to the original kit set-up then go from there!
On low grip surfaces, use softer oil 40 front, 30 rear), kit springs (black 270's) and get your roll centres correct, with the kit set-up in low grip situations the car handles unbelievably well, if yours doesn't then I would respectfully suggest that you recheck your build.
10-26-2002, 01:37 PM
#747
I'm starting to suspect the build too, I've tried a lot of things. I take it you're actually ffrom Modeltech, you've probably seen my post on the rc lab uk forum too, shockingly confused.
10-26-2002, 02:19 PM
#748
Tech Apprentice
Originally posted by Herminator
I take it you're actually ffrom Modeltech, you've probably seen my post on the rc lab uk forum too, shockingly confused.
I take it you're actually ffrom Modeltech, you've probably seen my post on the rc lab uk forum too, shockingly confused.
10-27-2002, 01:27 AM
#749
will any of you be attending the indoor champs in cleveland? i'd be curious to meet some of the rclab drivers. i'm about a half hour away, so i'll be there. oh, and seems like my custom work on the rclab has moved my tracktime back a week. i'll post pics as soon as i get it rtr. man, i did the blade thing, but i've got maybe .230 slot size. it's not a bad fit, but all things considered, i have tons of lash or slop in the driveline. i've even used xpress universals as i estimate that they have less play and extend into the outdrives another 1.5mm giving more surface area for the blades. i'm not too excited about this. i saw a while ago on here or the home site that rclab is looking to improve the cvd's. is this true? are there better ones out there? well, i'd better be off now. later.
Last edited by seaball; 11-07-2002 at 11:30 AM.
10-28-2002, 01:22 PM
#750
Hello Seaball,
I just wish if we were closer to you.Sorry
none of us here could make it to that race.I would love to race there and watch too.Maybe next time.
The X press universals works.But be carefull with them,they will break at the joints.As we had encountered here by a few drivers.
Slop is the power robbing.....issues.We had tried almost every thing here.I just stayed with the rclab ones.Just keep an eye on it.Have them checked and if slops begin to be excessive,just replace them.They all wears.If you want to make it better like I do,try get some piano wires and work with it.Mine is better from changing the pins to bigger size.Experimental..
As for improvements...the lap ones has been.....until further development.Cya
I just wish if we were closer to you.Sorry
none of us here could make it to that race.I would love to race there and watch too.Maybe next time.The X press universals works.But be carefull with them,they will break at the joints.As we had encountered here by a few drivers.
Slop is the power robbing.....issues.We had tried almost every thing here.I just stayed with the rclab ones.Just keep an eye on it.Have them checked and if slops begin to be excessive,just replace them.They all wears.If you want to make it better like I do,try get some piano wires and work with it.Mine is better from changing the pins to bigger size.
Experimental..As for improvements...the lap ones has been.....until further development.Cya