antoniop

seaball,

Here it is.
7U-010-xxx New range of RCLab shock springs. In pairs and sets. Range from 220g/mm - 340g/mm

The part number for the complete set of 9 pairs is in this page.

http://www.rclab.rochenhost.com/cata...1&currency=USD

Hope this helps.

seaball

iTrader: (9)

i can't get that page to come up. what about length? i'll be running super short shocks. i'm sure the length will work. now that i think about it. the shocks are almost like the stock ones. thanks.
can you post that link again?
maybe it's just down.

modeltech

Seaball, the link works fine.
The springs are 26mm free length.
There is also a link to the main store site on the RCLab UK website.

seaball

iTrader: (9)

thanks, the link works. it must have just been down or my browser was illin'. 26mm huh? sounds about right to fit. cool.

RSX Type 7even

hey,

havent been hwhile, but im back now since i am off fo the summer!!!!!!!!!!! anywayz, i did my summer overhaul of mah car and it looks and drives like a brand new car its GREAT. hey antoniop i wanted to know if your shock oil and spring setup would work well with a 100' by 65' track also if i should go down a spring rate or up and the same with the oil, dont mean to overwhelm you with questions

thanks
Nate

antoniop

Hi,

I had to change oil in the front, coz in spite of having a good feel about the driving of the car, the front was diving to much for my taste. Even worse than that, the rebound was to sudden.

However I was running under 35ºC (95ºF) air and 60º (140ºF) track temp and the effect of the lighter oil was amplified due do it's viscosity being lower under high temp.

According to the info, the Yok springs are around 290g/mm and I used HPI Yellow (302g) and the feel is the same.

I guess that under lower temperatures we can go down in oil viscosity and spring rate. Eventually a step or two.
In fact, during spring I hadn't felt the car that way.

During this period I used HPI Pinks in the front with 40 or 45 oil and the car was superb.

I guess I learned that heat not only causes higher grip but also changes suspension settings.

About the track size:

I guess so. What this setup gave me was the ability to go from curve to curve without to much front loss and roll. The changes in direction are now very crisp.
Our track is big, but it has a slower section where we have a sequenceof right left curves and the body roll and loss of front grip can add 1 to 1,5 seconds per lap.

PIIHB!

iTrader: (14)

Hi guys.

I was thinking about getting one of these cars (through speedtech). What parts break alot? I am a halfway decent driver tuner. What should I upgrade. I run on an indoor carpet track with foams.

chrisman

iTrader: (3)

Hi Bolink Boy,

I say frt suspension arms,c hub and the steering knuckle for spares as they do break under hi impact.Otherwise noting more.Other guys upgrade their turn buckles to titanium ones but it's all preferences...the stock ones works as well.

Antoniop,

Your quest for better frt damping and crisp respond as temp is high,yes go one step higher in oil viscosity but try with the same springs.Usually I have heavier springs in the rear.Play with your droop/also call downstop to gain or loose frt traction.Tumb of the rule....more droop(more traction) steering respond very fast,but also scrub down speed.Less droop ( less traction) steering respond slow and more speed.The rear top plate you can also cut them to make more traction or grove it with a dremel for control rear flex(ie rear traction)

PIIHB!

iTrader: (14)

chrisman-thank you. 200 bux doesn't seem like a bad price since it is CF and aluminum.

chrisman

iTrader: (3)

yup............. it's a very strong car to start with. post pics when you get ur ride ......

Cmotif

iTrader: (4)

I was running a older MVP, that probably (now I know) needs to be cut, but it has three caps on it. The motor gets very hot.

What stock motors are you guys running? Have you found any thing that can cause glitching on our RClab?

The rest of my gear is, Lynx 3d FM, Hi-tec HFX ESC, and Hi-tec metal gear digital servo.

Does it feel like there is too much play at the axles stock? How do you take that out. I want more control.


Cmotif <><

chrisman

iTrader: (3)

Hey Comtif,

Glitch is a terrible thing to trace.I would start with changing to another brand of stock motor ..ie P2k..or P2kpro.If it stops the glitch thats great.Otherwise,try a different x tals and relocated your receiver away from power wires and have it glue down with a thicker double sided tape so it dampens the vibration.Make sure your receiver wire not damaged or cutting into the grahite.

As for the cvd's...yes in time it gets a bunch of slop in in due to the soft material used.It has been addressed to the manufacture and they know that and working on a better harder ones.At this time we don't know when it'll be released.At this moment,I'm trying to fit different manufacture cvd's to test if it works.

Hope this helps...cheers!!

RSX Type 7even

Cmotif,

that sucks badly, i had the same thing happen to me and it costed me a race and a win against my friend that thinks he is the best in the whole world.
anywayz i just re-wired my car and it looks HOT!!! i still have to post pics once i know how.

Oh, how does everyone like the 17/37 layshaft, does the belts or the plastic gears wear sorta fast? anything i should be aware of like speed, durability, problems with installing or if it is a real need.

thanks,

Nate

Cmotif

iTrader: (4)

I was running a Robinson stealth 26 tooth, what gearing would you suggest for a track that is this big?

RSX Type 7even

hey wheere is EvErYboDy??? its been a lonely forum lately.

Cmotif - you should gear down 1 or 2 teeth if your motor is burning hot. also have you checked the comm and brushes, the could be worn out. hope that helps.

Nate