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Old 02-17-2012, 08:42 PM
  #13696  
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Originally Posted by pejota
You're looking at 3.8 to 4.0 FDR. That's a good place to start with a 25.5 motor. Sooo.... 50/80 or 49/78
Thanks, got enough room for a 57 tooth pinion, figure that should be plenty. BTW - what is the diff ratio in this thing? Still have a lot to do, need rear tires, hang and paint the body, diffs and such but that will have to go on the back burner now that Speedweeks is upon us. Also, looking at the calander it might not be until mid-April before I can get over to Brevard.

I'll keep chipping away at prepping this chassis and will check in from time to time. Might have another question or two but hope I've got most of it under control for now. Thanks guys.
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Old 02-17-2012, 09:01 PM
  #13697  
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TC3/TC4 is 2.5:1 trans ratio
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Old 02-17-2012, 09:03 PM
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Geno, this might help a bit.
http://www.comeseethis.com/Gearing/Browse

Hope when you get over to Brevard you'll come race with us....including that Pejota guy !!

www.bear-rc.com
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Old 02-18-2012, 05:26 AM
  #13699  
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Thanks Slashdriver, I plan to rewrite my oval rollout programming to incorporate transmission considerations which is something we don't need to worry with in pan car.

Originally Posted by Evoracer
Hope when you get over to Brevard you'll come race with us....including that Pejota guy !!
That's the plan, over the river and through the gators! Little over an hour to the track from Oviedo. Can't say I'll be a regular but will come run when I can. Liked the VTA stuff a couple years ago at the 'Birds and again this year it got me interested again especially after running the Legend on the road course. Only thing which I'm unsure I've thought through very well is the "ironman" aspect of running both onroad and oval!
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Old 02-18-2012, 03:09 PM
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Hey guys I know its a couple weeks late but I thought I would post the video from the Snowbirds.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 02-18-2012, 06:32 PM
  #13701  
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I stand corrected! The motor is more than fast enough. That video was inspiring for me. I would love be that good. Has any here used a corally phi09 for this class? I just paid for one from this site. I am excited to get in this class!
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Old 02-18-2012, 06:54 PM
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We've had a couple of people use the PHI and RDX for VTA and did really well but they've now moved into other chassis. I think the only downside for them was the price of parts. Nice cars though.
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Old 02-18-2012, 08:03 PM
  #13703  
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Not that it matters a whole lot but..........Has anyone ever GPS'd a LEGAL VTA car???
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Old 02-20-2012, 05:23 AM
  #13704  
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Morning All !! Don't comment here as much as I should. Just wanted to say that VTA in central Florida is going well. We've actually had some response from people who saw it at the Snowbirds and got the bug. It doesn't hurt that VTA is our premier class. Recently the local HobbyTown started a race program and after downplaying VTA for the longest time they ended up offering official rules VTA !! I guess that should be flattering to us all.
We're also experimenting with a Mini based VTA program I mentioned in a earlier post. Same basic VTA formula except using Tamiya M chassis. Can't wait to see a field of Datsun 510's, 240Z's, BMW 2002's, etc. out on track. The goal is to provide a entry level experience with a definite Vintage theme.
I'll give updates periodically.
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Old 02-20-2012, 08:06 AM
  #13705  
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Originally Posted by robk
VTA rules clean up:

*No motor modifications-
"No modifications or optional parts allowed on motor can, endbell, stator, or rotor. No cooling holes or other changes allowed to motor."

In other words, no dremeling,/grinding/cooling kits etc.
Rob, Can you clarify this a little? When you say no optional parts, I assume that means stock rotor, stator, timing board, but does this include the vented end bells? Ceramic bearings? What about removing the center motor ring (we find it cools much better with it off)? I assume fans and heatsinks are still all legal, but not sure what constitutes a cooling kit? Does this include the heat sinks that fit where the center ring goes and replaces it?

Currently I have a bone stock ballistic with the center ring removed, and a fan attached to the chassis pulling air off of the motor, but I know there are a lot of variations at our track.

Thanks!
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by orcadigital
Rob, Can you clarify this a little? When you say no optional parts, I assume that means stock rotor, stator, timing board, but does this include the vented end bells? Ceramic bearings? What about removing the center motor ring (we find it cools much better with it off)? I assume fans and heatsinks are still all legal, but not sure what constitutes a cooling kit? Does this include the heat sinks that fit where the center ring goes and replaces it?

Currently I have a bone stock ballistic with the center ring removed, and a fan attached to the chassis pulling air off of the motor, but I know there are a lot of variations at our track.

Thanks!
Fans and heatsinks have always been legal. That is not modifying the motor. I don't have a problem with removing the center ring. The center ring replacement heatsink would be illegal.

This is aimed at the vented endbells. Also, there were in the past 3rd party cooling kits/endbells sold as well.

The main thing is to reduce buying a lot of extra stuff and any cutting on the motors. Fans are pretty cheap, and can be used on any car. Same thing with stick on heat sinks. Most people have them already. In most cases, the motors are not getting very hot anyway, unless you are outside in the summer.

As far as ceramic bearings, i don't see any need for them, but it's almost impossible to detect without tearing motors down. It's technically illegal, if you read the rule as written, but I also think the money spent on practice time will make your car faster than ceramic bearings.
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by robk
Most people have them already. In most cases, the motors are not getting very hot anyway, unless you are outside in the summer.
And even then, they don't get that hot. We run outdoors on black asphalt in California, and track temps can easily get above 120*F. We don't have any heat issues with a 3.7:1 FDR, even with a bone stock (no heatsink, no venting, sleeve still installed) ballistic with no fans.

If you are worrying about heat in a 25.5 motor, you're just taking time away from a more beneficial activity, like track practice time.
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Old 02-20-2012, 10:40 AM
  #13708  
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The Only time I had a problem with heat was when the motor got bound up, something got in the bearings that was super fine finer than carpet fuzz and one run the motor was a fine 120 the next it came off just over 200

Pulled it apart and found the problem. I love the ballistic motors for their ease of teardown.
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Old 02-20-2012, 10:50 AM
  #13709  
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Originally Posted by robk
Fans and heatsinks have always been legal. That is not modifying the motor. I don't have a problem with removing the center ring. The center ring replacement heatsink would be illegal.

This is aimed at the vented endbells. Also, there were in the past 3rd party cooling kits/endbells sold as well.

The main thing is to reduce buying a lot of extra stuff and any cutting on the motors. Fans are pretty cheap, and can be used on any car. Same thing with stick on heat sinks. Most people have them already. In most cases, the motors are not getting very hot anyway, unless you are outside in the summer.

As far as ceramic bearings, i don't see any need for them, but it's almost impossible to detect without tearing motors down. It's technically illegal, if you read the rule as written, but I also think the money spent on practice time will make your car faster than ceramic bearings.
Thank you for the clarification!

Originally Posted by slashdriver
And even then, they don't get that hot. We run outdoors on black asphalt in California, and track temps can easily get above 120*F. We don't have any heat issues with a 3.7:1 FDR, even with a bone stock (no heatsink, no venting, sleeve still installed) ballistic with no fans.

If you are worrying about heat in a 25.5 motor, you're just taking time away from a more beneficial activity, like track practice time.
*shrug* I know when we go to bigger races, that the competition level increases, and everyone is chasing tenths and hundreths. VTA is a very friendly class to start in, but the competition at the top is tight, and those little things like ceramic bearings do make a difference. Not to say that things like driving skill and setups do not, but when things get competitive at the top, and everyone is within tenths for a qualifier, then people look to their gear for more.

3.7 FDR is one thing, when you start running closer to 3.0, the heat builds up and cooling is a factor to longevity of punch. At our track, the dynos and battery testers are showing up. VTA is serious business.
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Old 02-20-2012, 11:24 AM
  #13710  
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Ive been at 4.01 I guess thats where I need to make the change but I like the punch in the infieild.
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