U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing
Tech Elite
iTrader: (54)
The XXXMain book (which, I think, is a reprinted/reformated version of the old M-Power book that I use) is WORTH IT'S WEIGHT IN GOLD. But try to convince people to buy it. They'll buy every sparkly goo-gaw for obscene amounts of money, give up on a chassis and spend hundreds on something else, BUT THEY WON'T BUY OR READ THE $10 BOOK!! USING the book requires thought, etc, when it is far easier to hop on fora and ask "what's the hot setup". I LOVE racing those guys because they haven't figured out that the "hot setup" for someone else at another track is NEVER optimized for their driving style or track. So they're usually the only guys I can beat
It's like "give a man a fish he eats for a day, TEACH a man to fish he eats for life". THAT is where the value of the book comes in. Setting up my VTA TC5 I started with a widely available rubber tire stock setup (Josh Hohenstein) which was very good, but then I started dialing it in to my driving style (such as it is) and our typical track. After two seasons it is as dialed as can be. Bob Stormer commented on how well it turns, etc. And it's not me, I'm no tuning genius...I just READ THE BOOK and figure out the adjustments that apply to tune out the characteristic I don't like so much or dial in what I think I want. And it always works, go figure.
The X-Ray book that came with their "ultimate" setup station (and is available to download on their site, or it used to be) gives some general tuning advice, but where IT shines is showing the order in which alignment setup should be done once changes have been made.
Rant over.
It's like "give a man a fish he eats for a day, TEACH a man to fish he eats for life". THAT is where the value of the book comes in. Setting up my VTA TC5 I started with a widely available rubber tire stock setup (Josh Hohenstein) which was very good, but then I started dialing it in to my driving style (such as it is) and our typical track. After two seasons it is as dialed as can be. Bob Stormer commented on how well it turns, etc. And it's not me, I'm no tuning genius...I just READ THE BOOK and figure out the adjustments that apply to tune out the characteristic I don't like so much or dial in what I think I want. And it always works, go figure.
The X-Ray book that came with their "ultimate" setup station (and is available to download on their site, or it used to be) gives some general tuning advice, but where IT shines is showing the order in which alignment setup should be done once changes have been made.
Rant over.
On a side note what is the general opinion of the HPI e10 for vta? My son got an offer on CL for as as a partial trade for his buggy set up. Im not really finding much info on them other then advertising. Its just a roller that is offered.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (136)
E10
The E10 is a decent car, but you'll need bearings, the universals or cvd's, and the metal motor mount if it doesn't have one. The Tamiya TT01 is better car for beginners and the HPI Sprint 2 is a good car. One of the current RTR versions of the Sprint 2 comes with a VTA body and tires. The Sprint 2 comes with bearings and has more adjustability in it's stock version.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (54)
The E10 is a decent car, but you'll need bearings, the universals or cvd's, and the metal motor mount if it doesn't have one. The Tamiya TT01 is better car for beginners and the HPI Sprint 2 is a good car. One of the current RTR versions of the Sprint 2 comes with a VTA body and tires. The Sprint 2 comes with bearings and has more adjustability in it's stock version.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (136)
One thing I forgot to mention is that the E10 and TT01 are shaft drive and you'll need the aluminum shaft for both. TT01's don't come with bearings.
The TT01 is a terrible car to start in VTA with because of the limited gearing options.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (136)
The TT01 is not a terrible car. There are some gear limits, but with the silver cans in the GT3 class they are very fast and it's a good starter car. I work with junior high kids and the TT01 car is a better car out of the box, handling wise, as compared to the Sprint 2. The Sprint 2 is more adjustable and it's easier to make changes in the spur and pinion and you don't have to buy Tamiya gears. I think it's probably a better VTA choice than the TT01. Both are durable.
I only meant as a VTA car. It's a fine car especially the new E version.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
I wouldn't advise using the HPI E10 for VTA. I own one (and race it in a silvercan class).
Limitations of the E10 include:
- Plastic chassis that is easy to break (have broken 2)
- Proprietary shock mounts require expensive HPI shocks or aftermarket shocks if you want to replace the stock FRICTION dampners
- Only ONE (1) spur gear size. You will not be able to get the proper FDR if you are running a 25.5. motor
- .6 Metric Pitch gears (not compatible with regular 48 pitch gears)
- Stock version does not have adjustable caster, camber, or front toe.
There are some upgrade & aftermarket parts for the E10, but when you factor the cost to make the car decent for racing you could have bought a better car for less. The E10 is a decent drift car or parking lot basher, but really not race worthy in stock form.
Limitations of the E10 include:
- Plastic chassis that is easy to break (have broken 2)
- Proprietary shock mounts require expensive HPI shocks or aftermarket shocks if you want to replace the stock FRICTION dampners
- Only ONE (1) spur gear size. You will not be able to get the proper FDR if you are running a 25.5. motor
- .6 Metric Pitch gears (not compatible with regular 48 pitch gears)
- Stock version does not have adjustable caster, camber, or front toe.
There are some upgrade & aftermarket parts for the E10, but when you factor the cost to make the car decent for racing you could have bought a better car for less. The E10 is a decent drift car or parking lot basher, but really not race worthy in stock form.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
dont buy or allow yourself to get tied up with a E10...invest in a Sprint 2 Sport VTA edition for $200 new...Ive given away 2 E10's...FREE
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
A couple of the guys at HPI have pondered the idea of offerring an E10 with no drivetrain at all. In other words, its only function in life would be to hold a shell and wheels at the same time. A prop for shelf queen shells.
The 3Racing Sakura Zero S is a great car for about $115, too. Needs a few minor updates to get the gearing correct for spec racing, but it should be considered an option, too, as long as you are looking toward Tamiya cars.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (136)
squarehead - That's an interesting car. Have you had experience with it? If so, what's your experience been. Is it durable?
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ra-zero-s.html
It's topping my list of cheap VTA candidates right now.