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Old 04-03-2011, 10:43 PM
  #11116  
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we are home...

I would like to thank Eric and Rob and all the "Godfathers" of VTA for this event. I enjoy myself every year win lose or draw....I think the very best of this race and hope everyone does as well...

I will be back next year...ready to get it on with the BEST VTA racers in the country...thats what it is all about...BRING IT GUYS!!!!

Also...dont throw a black eye on this event about anything...Ive been trying to get events like this together for awhile, its alot harder than you might think..and it takes alot of dedication and connections to pull it off....not incl money and sponsors, and your personal time..its alot...

so be very thankful for the great event that was put on be the Track at Harbor Hobbies....

over 90 entries!!!!..more like close to 100 entries...oh yeah baby....great work EW...take a load off...you deserve it...cya in Indy...after the Honey Do List...got mine 10 min ago..dang its long....

ps..Mya said cya next year and thanks for the racing tips......she will be 4 next time....

I would also like to thank all the VTA,USGT, and Mini racers that came far and near....we are on the map as a class to be recon with in the rc world...tired of tapping on the door....time to KNOCK THIS MUTHER DOWN!!!!
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Old 04-04-2011, 12:11 AM
  #11117  
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can anyone tell me where I can find sway bars for the tc3? I would need bars and the ends that attach them to the arms. I read somewhere some time ago that there is some company who sells a kit w/ multiple bars and the links I need. Any recommendations?

Thanks
Dave
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Old 04-04-2011, 08:38 AM
  #11118  
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I'm setting up my T2'007 for USVTA racing (25.5 novak). I find that a fdr of 3.3 is ideal for my track but I'm not sure about the spur gear I can use. Given that it has to have access to the motor screw has anybody had this issue? I'd prefer to use 48p but I'll go 64 if need be. I don't want to have to buy a bunch of spurs & pinions to try to find what will work. Thanks in advance for the help. Feel free to pm me if your setup is a secret
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Old 04-04-2011, 09:41 AM
  #11119  
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Originally Posted by FOXY923
I'm setting up my T2'007 for USVTA racing (25.5 novak). I find that a fdr of 3.3 is ideal for my track but I'm not sure about the spur gear I can use. Given that it has to have access to the motor screw has anybody had this issue? I'd prefer to use 48p but I'll go 64 if need be. I don't want to have to buy a bunch of spurs & pinions to try to find what will work. Thanks in advance for the help. Feel free to pm me if your setup is a secret
Ok, I have a 64p 104t spur. Will a 53t pinion fit in the '007? I don't want to buy one to find out it won't fit.
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Old 04-04-2011, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by FOXY923
Ok, I have a 64p 104t spur. Will a 53t pinion fit in the '007? I don't want to buy one to find out it won't fit.
The biggest you'll get is maybe 48-49
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Old 04-04-2011, 10:07 AM
  #11121  
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I don't understand why so many cars were designed with one of the motor screws behind the spur.

Does it look like a smaller spur might work Ryan or will that block access to the motor screw?

I'm using 90/47 in my pseudo VTA, 21.5 non-timing car to give me a 3.8 fdr and I know I could go even lower, but I don't have the problem of blocking a motor screw with the spur since Photons have the motor mount slots top and bottom.
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Old 04-04-2011, 10:27 AM
  #11122  
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Originally Posted by sidewaze
The biggest you'll get is maybe 48-49
Originally Posted by locked
I don't understand why so many cars were designed with one of the motor screws behind the spur.

Does it look like a smaller spur might work Ryan or will that block access to the motor screw?

I'm using 90/47 in my pseudo VTA, 21.5 non-timing car to give me a 3.8 fdr and I know I could go even lower, but I don't have the problem of blocking a motor screw with the spur since Photons have the motor mount slots top and bottom.
I come to RCTech thinking I'd get a wider range of people with the same problem and both replies are from within the area

I tired a 73t spur but it blocked the screw. Couldn't even drill a hole as it was right at the teeth. I just put an 84t in my FK05, if it wasn't such a pain to take it out I'd try that.

I think the idea of putting the motor screws on the side was to lower the CG by having a shorter motor mount. Pain in the ass for the higher wind motors though.

I may have to calculate different size spurs & pinions and makeup some templates then size them up in the car. Then I don't have to buy needless gears.
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Old 04-04-2011, 10:59 AM
  #11123  
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To Eric and the rest of the crew @ The Track, I had an awesome time and look forward to doing it again next year, hopefully with my sons running beside me...Thanks to all the sponsors and everyone else who put a ton of effort into the event and the USVTA class, keep up the great work...

And for all those who asked or wanted to ask, NO Jersey Shore is NOT a fair representation of New Jersey

Ended up home at 10:30pm last night, left Wisconsin at 8:30am...not too shabby...
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Old 04-04-2011, 11:28 AM
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Here is a video I made from an old video I found in my hard drive. Its the Top Gun race at Primetime back in 2008. Keep in mind Lil' Monkey was 8 or 9 at the time he shot this lol. So view at own risk. Starts out him getting set up but some good racing when he has it in frame lol

It was first time I had ever ran an on road car. Mine was the green and silver 70 camaro. Nothing good about this video but thought some might enjoy it, also first time Ive ever edited a video.

Thought some might enjoy watching it.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 04-04-2011, 01:18 PM
  #11125  
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A couple of quick questions for the VTA guys,

Is there a 'best chassis' for VTA on asphalt ?

Also , do the belt drives share the same advantage over shaft drives , as they seem to in other touring car classes?

Many thanks.
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Old 04-04-2011, 01:47 PM
  #11126  
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USVTA Scale Nats videos:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/8907254-post4195.html
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Old 04-04-2011, 02:22 PM
  #11127  
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Originally Posted by AMZ
A couple of quick questions for the VTA guys,

Is there a 'best chassis' for VTA on asphalt ?

Also , do the belt drives share the same advantage over shaft drives , as they seem to in other touring car classes?

Many thanks.
out of curiousity, what are those advantages in touring cars?
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Old 04-04-2011, 04:04 PM
  #11128  
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glad to see all the VTA intrest in Alabama Georgia and Knoxville...keep it up
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Old 04-04-2011, 04:43 PM
  #11129  
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Originally Posted by AMZ
A couple of quick questions for the VTA guys,

Is there a 'best chassis' for VTA on asphalt ?

Also , do the belt drives share the same advantage over shaft drives , as they seem to in other touring car classes?

Many thanks.
A few pages back starting around post # 11005, there is a short discussion about shaft versus belt.
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Old 04-04-2011, 08:25 PM
  #11130  
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Originally Posted by FOXY923
I'm setting up my T2'007 for USVTA racing (25.5 novak). I find that a fdr of 3.3 is ideal for my track but I'm not sure about the spur gear I can use. Given that it has to have access to the motor screw has anybody had this issue? I'd prefer to use 48p but I'll go 64 if need be. I don't want to have to buy a bunch of spurs & pinions to try to find what will work. Thanks in advance for the help. Feel free to pm me if your setup is a secret
Use a 64P 90 tooth spur, and a 51 or 52 tooth pinion (this yields a 3.28/3.35 FDR with a 1.9 internal ratio) . Setting the proper gear mesh, however, can be frustrating until you've done it a few times...

-Remove the spur/pulley assembly from the rear bulkheads
-Loosen the motor screws
-Install the pinion gear
-Shift the motor forward (as far as you can), and reinstall the spur/pulley assembly
-Keeping the spur and pulleys properly installed in the bulkheads (don't reinstall the graphite retaining plates yet), move the motor towards the spur until the mesh is correct, then tighten the FRONT motor screw.
-Remove the spur and pulleys again, and tighten the REAR motor screw.
-Reinstall the spur/pulley assembly, the graphite retaining plate, and the rear top deck screws.

YOU'RE DONE (finally)... It's not so bad once you've done it a few times - be patient and make sure the mesh is right before you tighten both motor screws.
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