Around The Table With Paul Lemieux(RC-America/Thunderpower)
#558
paul-i saw that you use a futaba 9351 servo and if this is correct why such a slow one rated at .13 compared to a high speed with .07 transit time?
#560
Xraysteve: Hi, it dose make sence to me that going stiffer made it worse. normally when traction rolling stiffer makes it worse because a stiffer spring just makes everything happen faster. Lately i have been running 4 of the same springs all the way around, in vegas i ran Xray coppers all the way around, that spring is somewhere around 14lbs. It is hard to say about the rest of the set up because it is very different with a front diff. But yes a stiffer front spring usually makes it worse. I think that you will just have to try some stuff. My suggestion would be to put a carpet/rubber set up on the car from the Xray site and dont change anything except, driveline(diff or spool), springs, and camber. Just see how far those adjustments can get you. and always run 3deg rear toe. Let me know what was the best combination of those three things then maybe we can work from there.
Thanks Kropy.
Kave: Im not sure atall, It has been talked about but i have had no instruction as to when or even if its 100% going to happen. I do think it will.
Eddie10: I dont worry about speed at all, if its faster than .17 Ill run it.
I think slower servos can be easier to drive sometimes. But right now the 9351 works good for me.
Thanks, Paul
Thanks Kropy.
Kave: Im not sure atall, It has been talked about but i have had no instruction as to when or even if its 100% going to happen. I do think it will.
Eddie10: I dont worry about speed at all, if its faster than .17 Ill run it.
I think slower servos can be easier to drive sometimes. But right now the 9351 works good for me.
Thanks, Paul
#561
i will use your las Vegas set up with a diff. it dos not say were to put the quick roll center adjustment. i would think high and inside. should i not be any more than 3 degrees negative camber. and no less then 1degree. i appreciate the help.
#562
Xraysteve: for camber you dont want to be more than 2.5 in the rear and 2 in the front, and no less than .5 in the front and 1.5 in the rear. vegas set up had high front roll center and low in the rear, this is important.
Thanks,
paul
Thanks,
paul
#563
stupid question. When installing C hubs, do the labels (4L 4R) face the front of the car or the rear?
Also, the camber link on the front right side of my car is binding. How do I go about getting the A arm and the camber link to move up and down more freely?
Also, the camber link on the front right side of my car is binding. How do I go about getting the A arm and the camber link to move up and down more freely?
Last edited by Ridge_Racer; 04-03-2008 at 08:31 AM. Reason: more questions
#564
Ridge_racer: the 4L or whatever it may be should be facing the bumper or the fromt of the car.
If i could see the car im sure i could fix theRF bind right away. Are you sure its the camber link?. if you are, the balls inside the plastic links are bound up and you may have to squeez them with a pliars. but it sound like it may be something more. When i build a car i do it by steps, first i put the arms on the car(only the arms) if that is free then i put the caster block on the arm, if that is free then i hook up the camber link. so in the end their is nothing that could be bound up, and if their is i always know exactly what is doing it. The only other thing that it could be is a bound up dog bone inside the axle. It is very rare for these things to happen with an Xray, so make sure that it is assymbled properly before modifing anything to make it free.
Thanks paul
If i could see the car im sure i could fix theRF bind right away. Are you sure its the camber link?. if you are, the balls inside the plastic links are bound up and you may have to squeez them with a pliars. but it sound like it may be something more. When i build a car i do it by steps, first i put the arms on the car(only the arms) if that is free then i put the caster block on the arm, if that is free then i hook up the camber link. so in the end their is nothing that could be bound up, and if their is i always know exactly what is doing it. The only other thing that it could be is a bound up dog bone inside the axle. It is very rare for these things to happen with an Xray, so make sure that it is assymbled properly before modifing anything to make it free.
Thanks paul
#565
I checked everything before posting. A-arms first, then Caster block and wheel assembly. I make sure the whole thing falls under its own weight. Then when I put the link on, the assembly will fall but then I can push it down even more. The left side doesn't do that. I'll do the plier thing and get back to you.
Thanks Paul
Thanks Paul
#567
when you say high front roll center do you mean the top inside whole or the top out side hole. the rear should be low but bottom inside or bottom outside hole.
should i not be running any post at all being that my chassis is the us version.
should i not be running any post at all being that my chassis is the us version.
#570
the setup sheet shows were to put the arms but do not show were to put the quick roll center adjustment. i am racing tomorrow so any help today will help.