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Old 05-31-2006, 08:53 AM
  #14431  
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Originally Posted by dawgmeat
Have you invested shares with HPI He's newbie at racing, i.e. Man this looks cool, how much do those car cost, found a cheap one Ebay, I have a question, " insert your dumbass response here__________________", thank God are track doesn't have anybody like yourself racing because we take pride in helping out the new guys, everbody starts down that road even the Hara who not included in the kit
A "newbie" will break a lot of parts in the beginning. Especially, on a high performance race car as opposed to a ready to run, which has softer materials. The normal parts that break are what's being talked about, here. A P-DUB bumper will go a long way in reducing the chances for breakage. Going out and buying the hardest and heaviest hop-ups only mask the problem. Buying these things will only allow you to continue to make the same mistakes and not improve while breaking other parts of the car (not to mention, have a heavier, slower car. ). The best solution has already been mentioned - slow down and learn to drive. Soon, you'll find that you're buying less spare parts and moving up in rank where you race.!

Last edited by kewdawg; 05-31-2006 at 01:53 PM.
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Old 05-31-2006, 12:22 PM
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Well thanks for the replies to a few of my questions. Yes I am a newbie and so far I only really drive at half speed around my track. The local track that I go to was nice enough to form a racing event for us less experienced drivers. I fully understand the concerns about durable hop-ups masking a potential problem with the driving ability of the driver, but I want to be able to get better at my driving without having to spend 12.00 or so on every mistake I make. I just wanted to see what other people suggested I do to help me continue with the hobby
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Old 05-31-2006, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by cyclone
well a year or two back, i had only been racing a few months and after i replaced my yokomo cutom car with a pro4 i really struggled to get round the track without one little scrap of the bucky wooder board that my club use as markings
so my dad made me these parts which really did help with the 'chrash testing' lol

it really does work if you want to try and make some but if not the best thing you can do is slow down, dont rush and gradually speed up, there will come a point where you wont ever feel like chrashing... obviously it will still happen thou
i did have to replace the car with a new one though when i decided it was time to take them off because they had increased the wear rates dramatically... just think, if something doesnt brake in a chrash, it means something else has taken a big impact, and become slighty imperfect...
Wow! Can we order those suspension arms from your dad? It would look cooler if it was anodized in purple too. Those arms must be tough. Nice!

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Old 05-31-2006, 02:41 PM
  #14434  
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actually i raced them for about 2 years flawlessly lol the mod on the top of the c hub so that the turnbuckel isnt attaching to the hub screw was essensial tho without ti ball studs...
sad to let them go but i needed to so that my driving would improve really... proformance wasnt much different...
you can buy that set of me if you want lol
unfortuanly im in the uk tho...
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Old 05-31-2006, 07:31 PM
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Hi guys, I just tried oneway again today. Just as I remember, it has tons of steering. I pretty much gave all the rear tractioni that I could to the rear, but the rear is still very easy to come around . For those of you are good with oneway. Is there anyway to make the rear hookup with the front? Or do I just need to practice with throttle coming out of the turn?

I took out rear anti-roll bar, raised front roll center, stiffer springs up front, soften rear springs. More droop on the front(6.5), less droop at the back(5.5). Ride height: 4.5mm front and back. Anti-squad .5mm split. I am not sure what else to do.

I would appreciate any input. Thanks
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Old 05-31-2006, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by thegreatimpulse
Hi guys, I just tried oneway again today. Just as I remember, it has tons of steering. I pretty much gave all the rear tractioni that I could to the rear, but the rear is still very easy to come around . For those of you are good with oneway. Is there anyway to make the rear hookup with the front? Or do I just need to practice with throttle coming out of the turn?

I took out rear anti-roll bar, raised front roll center, stiffer springs up front, soften rear springs. More droop on the front(6.5), less droop at the back(5.5). Ride height: 4.5mm front and back. Anti-squad .5mm split. I am not sure what else to do.

I would appreciate any input. Thanks
Are you running your rear camber links as long as possible? If, you haven't already - use 3mm spacers under the inner ballstud of the camber links. Also, use the 3 deg. toe block with at least 2mm of spacer under the front and rear blocks of the rear differential. This should create more roll which will give you more side bite. You could also try running #2 pistons with 35wt. shock oil and run 3 deg. of camber in the rear . These suggestions should straighten things out for you.
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Old 06-01-2006, 02:01 AM
  #14437  
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Originally Posted by thegreatimpulse
Hi guys, I just tried oneway again today. Just as I remember, it has tons of steering. I pretty much gave all the rear tractioni that I could to the rear, but the rear is still very easy to come around . For those of you are good with oneway. Is there anyway to make the rear hookup with the front? Or do I just need to practice with throttle coming out of the turn?

I took out rear anti-roll bar, raised front roll center, stiffer springs up front, soften rear springs. More droop on the front(6.5), less droop at the back(5.5). Ride height: 4.5mm front and back. Anti-squad .5mm split. I am not sure what else to do.

I would appreciate any input. Thanks
Try setting your droop equally on front and rear. Try 6. Then your front ride height should be 1mm lower than the rear.
Example: 4.5mm - front and 5.5mm - rear

That should work better than your set up now. Hope it works for you..

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Old 06-01-2006, 03:06 AM
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Originally Posted by kewdawg
Are you running your rear camber links as long as possible? If, you haven't already - use 3mm spacers under the inner ballstud of the camber links. Also, use the 3 deg. toe block with at least 2mm of spacer under the front and rear blocks of the rear differential. This should create more roll which will give you more side bite. You could also try running #2 pistons with 35wt. shock oil and run 3 deg. of camber in the rear . These suggestions should straighten things out for you.
kewdawg, thanks. The reason the rear camber links are not as long as possible was because the my wheels would rub on the outter setting on the hub, and also, I am trying to make the rear react faster to keep up with the front, but I'll try rest of the settings. Thanks.
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Old 06-01-2006, 03:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Nicadrauspro4
Try setting your droop equally on front and rear. Try 6. Then your front ride height should be 1mm lower than the rear.
Example: 4.5mm - front and 5.5mm - rear

That should work better than your set up now. Hope it works for you..

Nicadrauspro4, wouldn't those settings make my car oversteer even more? or am I missing out on something?

Thanks
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Old 06-01-2006, 04:51 AM
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Definately try the camber links...

Short front, long rear.. The front especially does take a little steering out. But most of all, it's very helpful in making the car a little more predictable.

Increase rear toe to 3deg if you're not already running it. BIG difference in how hooked up the car is. Lastly, if you have, use the wheels spacers and wide hex hubs to widen the rear end. Wider equals more stable. This should also solve your camber link problem.

Check that you're not running excessive camber... how are your tires wearing? WHen i first started i always used too much camber and the car was a little "Catchy".. it would turn, grip and hook into the corner.

Hope your diff is nice and smooth so it can turn easily without sliding out. Super important to keep tabs on that rear diff.


Let us know how you get on!
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Old 06-01-2006, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Nicadrauspro4
Try setting your droop equally on front and rear. Try 6. Then your front ride height should be 1mm lower than the rear.
Example: 4.5mm - front and 5.5mm - rear

That should work better than your set up now. Hope it works for you..

This is done to keep more weight over the front end which will increase steering not rear grip. This will only make matters worse.
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Old 06-01-2006, 12:26 PM
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Thanks again, AngryAsian, funny, I am an Asian too, and I definitely angry when my Pro 4 doesnít run good. I am running 3 deg rear toe already, and yes, itís very effective. I havenít run this setup enough to see the how the rear tires wear yet. I may need to put some marking on the tires, so it shows easier. I have 2 deg rear camber now, what do you guys think? I have seen just about every setup have 2-3mm of spacers under the rear toe blocks. Wouldnít that raise the rear roll center and make the back roll less? Iíll shorten the front camber, and I am thinking to raise the rear camber link to 5mm.

I am still working on that rear diff. I try to make it as smooth as possible without losing power. Itís kind of hard to find that sweet spot, and sometimes, the diff would just come loose which creates a whole other problem. How do you guys keep your rear diff smooth?

Thanks
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Old 06-01-2006, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by thegreatimpulse
I am still working on that rear diff. I try to make it as smooth as possible without losing power. Itís kind of hard to find that sweet spot, and sometimes, the diff would just come loose which creates a whole other problem. How do you guys keep your rear diff smooth?

Thanks

For me it was replacing the rear diff with a T2

I have had the sane problem with the Pro4. The rear and front diffs just do not want to stay tight with even new parts. Or smooth. It seems the nut is on the wrong side of the car.
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Old 06-01-2006, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by kewdawg
This is done to keep more weight over the front end which will increase steering not rear grip. This will only make matters worse.
Setting a lower ride height in the front suspension of the car makes it more stable in acceleration every after corners. Because the front wheels are given more grip when accelarating your car. Now, when approaching corners, that's where the setting of the droop comes in. If it does make matters worse for you, then sorry about that. It does work for most of us here. That's what most guys here set up their Pro4s with.

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Old 06-01-2006, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Nicadrauspro4
Setting a lower ride height in the front suspension of the car makes it more stable in acceleration every after corners. Because the front wheels are given more grip when accelarating your car. Now, when approaching corners, that's where the setting of the droop comes in. If it does make matters worse for you, then sorry about that. It does work for most of us here. That's what most guys here set up their Pro4s with.

No appology needed. I appreciated all the inputs.
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