86LikesHpi Pro 4
08-07-2006, 11:17 PM
Originally Posted by Tpg racer
Hey thnx man, may I know the price wise then??
How much is the difference???
How much is the difference???
EngTat
08-07-2006, 11:39 PM
Originally Posted by Nicadrauspro4
The Hara edition are equiped with these hop-ups:
a) 2.25mm CF upper deck which is stiffer (the original and v.1.1 have 2.0mm)
b) Upgraded competition threaded shock with teflon coated damper.
c) Aluminum servo mounts
d) Front solid axle spool (original and v.1.1 are using one-way axle diff)
e) Integrated one piece aluminum spur gear mount
f) Delrin rear outdrives (tougher than the original)
g) Quick motor-release motor plate mount
h) Aluminum camber plate mount (front and rear)
a) 2.25mm CF upper deck which is stiffer (the original and v.1.1 have 2.0mm)
b) Upgraded competition threaded shock with teflon coated damper.
c) Aluminum servo mounts
d) Front solid axle spool (original and v.1.1 are using one-way axle diff)
e) Integrated one piece aluminum spur gear mount
f) Delrin rear outdrives (tougher than the original)
g) Quick motor-release motor plate mount
h) Aluminum camber plate mount (front and rear)
08-08-2006, 12:24 AM
Tech Master
Originally Posted by Lokanas
It's interesting, because mine HE has no aluminium camber plates, but it has one-way as well as spool included
08-09-2006, 09:21 PM
I was wondering if the Pro 4 is capable of holding the Orion 4800 platinum lipo packs?? It looked like in one of Orion's ads they used a Pro 4 as an example of how the lipo fit... at least it looked like a Pro 4....
Is the Pro 4 more or less durable than say, a XXX-S G+ ?? I only race stock and 19 turn in TC for the moment and was wonder what the strong and weak points of this car would be... (I'm looking at the plain Pro 4, not the Hara edition...) Any thoughts???
Is the Pro 4 more or less durable than say, a XXX-S G+ ?? I only race stock and 19 turn in TC for the moment and was wonder what the strong and weak points of this car would be... (I'm looking at the plain Pro 4, not the Hara edition...) Any thoughts???
08-09-2006, 11:47 PM
Orion lipo should fit..
the Pro4 has extra parts that hold stick packs plus battery brace..
for the price of a plain Pro4... I'll sell you my Hara edition.
the Pro4 has extra parts that hold stick packs plus battery brace..
for the price of a plain Pro4... I'll sell you my Hara edition.
08-09-2006, 11:49 PM
Originally Posted by Justinian
I was wondering if the Pro 4 is capable of holding the Orion 4800 platinum lipo packs?? It looked like in one of Orion's ads they used a Pro 4 as an example of how the lipo fit... at least it looked like a Pro 4....
Is the Pro 4 more or less durable than say, a XXX-S G+ ?? I only race stock and 19 turn in TC for the moment and was wonder what the strong and weak points of this car would be... (I'm looking at the plain Pro 4, not the Hara edition...) Any thoughts???
Is the Pro 4 more or less durable than say, a XXX-S G+ ?? I only race stock and 19 turn in TC for the moment and was wonder what the strong and weak points of this car would be... (I'm looking at the plain Pro 4, not the Hara edition...) Any thoughts???
08-10-2006, 03:26 PM
Fortunately, I have not have to replace anything on it except for the bevel gears. I ran my Novak Brushless 4.5 and developed weird sound after the 2nd run. Apparently, the small gear in the rear diff was bad. I changed it but still makes occasional sound even though I have just designed that car for stock motor duties. Is it true that version 2 of the bevel gear is less prone to being chewed up? I am having trouble locating the bevel gear set at my LHS. Any suggestion or feedback?
08-10-2006, 07:57 PM
The new gears are different for both bevel, and diff gears.
The newer bevel gears are re-enforced to stop the diwely spaced teeth from spreading under load.
The diff gear is re-enforced on the back side of the gear to stop the entire gear face from flexing backwards under load.
The Ver 2 gears are much stronger than the originals, and should stand up to use with a 4.5 just fine.
If you have a large stock of v1 gears, you can purchase a CF backing plate to stop the gear flex.
The newer bevel gears are re-enforced to stop the diwely spaced teeth from spreading under load.
The diff gear is re-enforced on the back side of the gear to stop the entire gear face from flexing backwards under load.
The Ver 2 gears are much stronger than the originals, and should stand up to use with a 4.5 just fine.
If you have a large stock of v1 gears, you can purchase a CF backing plate to stop the gear flex.
08-10-2006, 08:17 PM
I just got home from running my car for the second time on carpet. It's been a couple of weeks since the first time I ran and it took a little to get back into a groove. LAst time I started off on 1/2 throttle and moved to 3/4 throttle before a control arm was broken (not by me though).
This evening went well except for the fact that halfway through my 2nd pack and I clipped the wall with the LF which happen to make the RR wheel break. i replaced the wheel and when i drove it, the car oversteered badly. When I checked it, I found the front diff had come loose. I checked it and apart from a thrust ball missing everything seemed fine so I put in another ball and put it back together. What I want to know, is the diff loosening something that is fairly common and what can I do to stop it happening again? Loctite the threads?
This evening went well except for the fact that halfway through my 2nd pack and I clipped the wall with the LF which happen to make the RR wheel break. i replaced the wheel and when i drove it, the car oversteered badly. When I checked it, I found the front diff had come loose. I checked it and apart from a thrust ball missing everything seemed fine so I put in another ball and put it back together. What I want to know, is the diff loosening something that is fairly common and what can I do to stop it happening again? Loctite the threads?
08-10-2006, 09:30 PM
Greasemonkey,
The last time i ran my Pro4 i had a similar problem with the diff slipping all the time. Your best option, like you said is to loctite the threads and see how ya go with that. Might be an option to get the Heavy Duty nut aswell.
At one stage my diff actually became loose just sitting on my pit table... i have no idea how that happens but it did!...
I'm not really sure WHY it happens, it just seems to be a problem with the diffs.
See how you go with that,
Cheers,
Robbie
The last time i ran my Pro4 i had a similar problem with the diff slipping all the time. Your best option, like you said is to loctite the threads and see how ya go with that. Might be an option to get the Heavy Duty nut aswell.
At one stage my diff actually became loose just sitting on my pit table... i have no idea how that happens but it did!...
I'm not really sure WHY it happens, it just seems to be a problem with the diffs.
See how you go with that,
Cheers,
Robbie
08-10-2006, 11:02 PM
Tech Apprentice
wtb pro 4 shock tower
hey guys
Anyone in the San Francisco bay area have an extra rear shock tower they wanna sell me. I could use one asap and all the surrounding shops are out of stock as well as their distributers for at least a month. The car sucks as a shelf queen. thanks
ryan
[email protected]
or pm me.
Anyone in the San Francisco bay area have an extra rear shock tower they wanna sell me. I could use one asap and all the surrounding shops are out of stock as well as their distributers for at least a month. The car sucks as a shelf queen. thanks
ryan
[email protected]
or pm me.
08-11-2006, 12:00 AM
GreaseMonkey,
Are you guys by chance using the stock plastic diff halves? I'm using the machined delrin ones and have no real diff slip issues after the first adjustment after a rebuild. Maybe the stock plastic ones are expanding/ shrinking when your diff heats up/ cools down.
Are you guys by chance using the stock plastic diff halves? I'm using the machined delrin ones and have no real diff slip issues after the first adjustment after a rebuild. Maybe the stock plastic ones are expanding/ shrinking when your diff heats up/ cools down.
Last edited by MikeR; 08-11-2006 at 08:35 PM.
08-11-2006, 08:04 AM
Originally Posted by rai13
hey guys
Anyone in the San Francisco bay area have an extra rear shock tower they wanna sell me. I could use one asap and all the surrounding shops are out of stock as well as their distributers for at least a month. The car sucks as a shelf queen. thanks
ryan
[email protected]
or pm me.
Anyone in the San Francisco bay area have an extra rear shock tower they wanna sell me. I could use one asap and all the surrounding shops are out of stock as well as their distributers for at least a month. The car sucks as a shelf queen. thanks
ryan
[email protected]
or pm me.
08-11-2006, 11:12 AM
Originally Posted by AngryAsian
The new gears are different for both bevel, and diff gears.
The newer bevel gears are re-enforced to stop the diwely spaced teeth from spreading under load.
The diff gear is re-enforced on the back side of the gear to stop the entire gear face from flexing backwards under load.
The Ver 2 gears are much stronger than the originals, and should stand up to use with a 4.5 just fine.
If you have a large stock of v1 gears, you can purchase a CF backing plate to stop the gear flex.
The newer bevel gears are re-enforced to stop the diwely spaced teeth from spreading under load.
The diff gear is re-enforced on the back side of the gear to stop the entire gear face from flexing backwards under load.
The Ver 2 gears are much stronger than the originals, and should stand up to use with a 4.5 just fine.
If you have a large stock of v1 gears, you can purchase a CF backing plate to stop the gear flex.
08-11-2006, 11:17 AM
I have a couple purple pro4 suspension mounts, I think they are both 2.5, and a purple spool. I dont think it has been used, ill have to look at it again when I get home. If anyone is interested drop me a pm.
Thanks.
Thanks.